Chevrolet - Silverado1500 :: Running Hotter Than Usual And Heater Does Not Work?
Mar 24, 2013
I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado, and recently it has been running hotter than usual (I dont know the exact numbers, but it usually runs at the halfway mark, and is now at the 3/4 mark) and the heater doesn't work... as long as I'm going UNDER about 60 mph. When I get on the freeway, the water temp goes back down to the 1/2 mark, and the heater comes on! Occasionally when I'm going around 30 or even stopped the water temp gets even hotter, and it tells me that the engine coolant is hot. I've tried adding more coolant... maybe I have a leak? I also know that I need new AC/Serpentine belts, could it have something to do w that?
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My dad recently asked me to find out what is wrong with his A/C unit on his truck. He has a Chevy Silverado 1500 LS. it's a 2002 model. um.... anyway, he usually blasts his A/C around 3 to 5. the a/c setting goes from 1 thru 5, and off. so i was thinking that since he uses the a/c so much that he's gone and broken something.
In the middle of summer so i suspect the heat has something to do with it. some days the a/c works, sometimes it doesn't. although i've ridden in the truck a few times since the problem appeared, I've noticed that the a/c almost always works when we pull out of the garage or when its cool enough. and never works when we come out of a store or somewhere to the truck that's been left out in the heat in the parking lot.
There's one more thing. i haven't noticed it yet but this comes directly from my dad. he says that sometimes he'll just be driving along and he'll hear a 'clunk' noise and the a/c will start working again. How to fix this problem. I assume this is something very common. and would it be easy for me to fix? i know more about computers than i do cars, and I've already taken apart 1 laptop and fixed 2 others. I feel fairly confident taking part of a car apart.... er, truck in this case.
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2000 Blazer LS 4X4. 186k miles. It would seem that my heater control will only work for defrost and face-vent operation. (Just happened yesterday) When I move the controller from the off position to defrost, I can hear the system moving the flaps into position. But it no longer moves for defrost/floor or just floor control. Would changing the heater control solve this problem, or could it be a bad vacuum line?
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I've been having this problem for a while now. Specs: 2003 Silverado-1500 with 260,000. New wires, plugs, fuel filter. I clean the Throttle-body and Mass-Air-Flow Sensor every two weeks. I use Techron fuel additive @ every fill-up. I have also tried using Seafoam Motor Treatment in the tank and crank-case. It turns-over but won't start. I have to try 3-4 times before it starts. The only time it starts on the FIRST try is when the gas tank is FULL.
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I have a 95 Silverado 1500 with the 5.7 V8 that cuts out when the pedal is held just above idle. If I am just driving normally as in pulling up to a stop sign and leaving with moderate acceleration it is fine and I don't notice any problems at all. The time I really notice it is when I am backing a trailer up and have to hold the pedal just above idle. It acts like the fuel is just being shut off to all cylinders. When I let off the gas it will sound like it is going to die and then it will come back to idle and idle perfectly. I was told it was probibly the PCV valve and I figured that for a few bucks I didn't have much to loose but that didn't work. I am thinking it has to be a sensor but I may be wrong.
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I have a vibration in my 1997 Chevy pick up that comes up through the seat. Before this vibration I had steering wheel only vibration and could tell it was the front left wheel. Called my usual, trustworthy shop. I did not talk to the service manager, he was on vacation. The owner’s son took the order and the next day I ended up with two new u-joints. Now I have the steering wheel vibration AND the “through seat” vibration. Service manager returned from vacation and took over. The left front tire finally got balanced, like I asked for initially. That tire was 4 ounces off. ALL tires got balanced. Steering wheel is OKAY, no steering wheel vibration, but vibration through seat is the same. The shop changed the u-joints with GM brand u-joints.....no change. We put new tires on...no change. We put a set of different new tires and a set of wheels off a Tahoe.....no change.
Balanced the drive shaft...........no change. In the midst of all this the rear seal at yoke starting leaking. The shop installed new seal and bearing. The shop did pay for the second set of u-joints, the second set of new tires and used Tahoe (but nice) wheels, the seal and bearing and balancing of the drive shaft. I was politely told that I am now on my own. I can feel this vibration at 20 mph, kind of subtle, but noticeable. At highway speeds the vibration increases, not violent, but very noticeable. Once in a while (very seldom) the vibration on the highway is subtle like it is at 20 mph. Then I will go into a slow, long curve on the highway and that seems to set it off. Maybe this is a coincidence, maybe it would happen anyway if there were no curve and the highway were straight. 95% of the time the highway vibration is bad and I can see the console arm-rest shaking. The truck does shake a little when idling, but it always has.
1997 Chevy truck is four wheel drive, 350 with 185,000 miles. This is my work and fishing truck. I am up and down the highway to St. Louis, Mo. daily (construction worker) and that relentless “through seat” vibration is taking a painful toll on my back. Starting to panic. Do not what to address next and worrying about spending a lot of cash trying to do away with this vibration. Work has been terribly slow and I need to resolve this issue.
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I have a 98 chevy astro thats been acting up alot these days! just a few eeks ago while checking tranny fluid it kinda smelt burnt. but topped it up anyway. mind you alot else is going on too. in the last year the horn has stopped working, the wipers work when they want to. the stereo stopped working. there was this wierd clicking noise that drained my battery, it was coming from this little black square looking thing under the dash on the drivers side, I removed it and it never happened agian. still haven't replaced it yet seeming as it ran fine without it. it wouldn't start when it was raining so considering the other electrical problems I was having I had a wire kit done on it and it didn't work. it turned out to be a cracked coil, which was replaced. just this last week the heater stopped working and now it started doing this this morning.
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Just this morning I noticed that the first shift my automatic transmission makes is not so smooth. Almost like I'm getting a slight shove from behind. Repeated at every stoplight. I know I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow, but am hoping to get ahead of the curve and be prepared for what it might entail.
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I drive a 2005 Chevy Silverado. I only drive a few miles a day, to and from work. The truck has about 32,000 miles. Recently it has started making a thumping noise, but only randomly. From inside the truck, it sounds like someone is knocking from under my hood while other times there are no unusual noises. I opened my hood while it was making the thumping noise but couldn't hear it from outside the car. Doesn't seem to make a difference what I do - put it in drive, neutral, reverse, park, go fast, slow, stop.
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My pickup always bogs down going up a grade, seems like its flooding out and it starts running real rough and vibrating bad, I have to let off gas and pull over .
Been to shop several times, no one seems to know what's causing it.
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My 1994 Silverado 1500 has been running rough, chugging, smelling gassy and sometimes quitting while idling. We replaced the plugs and wires. This didn't actually work, but while testing it, it started to overheat. We added water and the water squirts out everywhere from the bottom of the engine. So there are 2 problems...
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2005 v6 silverado, not starting, backfiring some, this happened all of a sudden, I do have spark, good clean distrub cap/rotor, plug wires, since this no start happened today then - new hall effect sensor, and new cank position sensor, new battery, Should I be looking into the fuse system? there is pressure at the fuel line, but do not know how much (don't have a guage) and am confused if this would cause backfiring.It is currently show no error codes for the OBD II
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When im driving my truck down the road all the power cuts off then comes back on, don't know what it is?
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I have a new issue with my '02 Silverado, which so far has been a good truck. However, about a week ago when I tried to open the tailgate, the latch wouldn't release. I have yanked on the tailgate with my full weight (260 lbs) while pulling on the release handle, and have not had any success at getting it open.
The release handle seems to work OK, but the internal latch mechanism seems to be jammed in some way. I have even tried parking the truck on different surfaces, just to see if tilting the truck at different angles would loosen the latch, but that didn't work either.
It's as if the tailgate were welded shut. fortunately, most stuff I put in the bed isn't too heavy for me to lift over the gate or the bed sides, but I'd really like to have my tailgate working again. I have even thought that if I do get the gate open, that I'd disable the latch and install a hook-and-chain setup like what trucks had in the early 1960s and prior (since it's a work truck and I'm not planning to part with, it I'm not concerned about resale value).
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Every so often when i start , the dash lights came on but no start,(no noise) second try worked but the radio reset to 1200 and bad date, this happens about every 20 starts. This truck have remote start...
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I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado pickup, V8, A/C, 105,000 miles, which drives like a top.
However, about a year ago, the TWO brake lights on the dash started coming on together, randomly. Sometimes the lights came on right after I started the first time, other times, they came on later in a trip after the truck warmed up.
The brakes worked perfectly, as far as I could tell. I took the pickup to the dealer, left it 2 days, and they checked the brakes, belts, tried everything (they said) including trying to get error codes on the computer. Trouble is, the lights had mysteriously gone out and refused to come back on.
A few days later, they came back on for me!! I could turn the truck off, wait a few moments, restart it, and the lights would go off, say, 80% of the time. Only to come back on later. So, I took it to a local Goodyear Tire store (while getting new tires) and they saw the lights, did a diagnosis on a computer, and got NO codes.
Now, I'm worried very much - you see, the brakes on this truck have never been changed! I've had them checked many times, always with the answer that they are still in great shape - last time, they had 30% left! I waited until the lights were ON, and drove all the way to the dealer; parked the truck running; and waited until a technician could come out and do the computer test. NO codes.
Now, I have noticed a possible pattern: when the weather is hot, as it has been most of last year here, the lights come on; when it's cold, as it's been lately, the do NOT come on. Just today, the weather warmed up into the 70s and, zap, the lights came on today.
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I recently replaced the fuel pump and afterward started noticing a buzzing/whining sound coming from under the hood. The noise goes away when I remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and after the car has been driven for 1/2 to 1 hour. Sometimes it comes back, sometime not, but it always is there at a cold start. Had the shop take a look and they said the fuel pump is ok and recommended replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I did but that but it did not solve it. I suppose I should check the fuel pressure. 2000 Silverado 5.3L ...
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This has been a decent truck... lately you drive for 5 miles or so.. it goes to reduced engine power. if you get to side of the road and turn completely off and sit maybe 10 seconds or so, it goes fine again.... I have tried to get a computer reading, but by the time I have gotten it anywhere, the check engine light is off again..
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I have a problem with exhaust fumes in my 2003 Silverado truck. Initially, 3 head bolts on the manifold were found to be popped off. After replacing the bolts, the exhaust fumes in the cab still existed. The truck has been evaluated by a Cherolet dealership and 2 independent garages who found no system exhaust leaks. Obviously, I am very frustrated and not sure what to do next or where to go.
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2003 with about 140k miles, radiator was replaced a couple years back, recently replaced timing belt (#2) and some valve cover gaskets in advance of a road trip.
On the road trip, used no cooling air, occasionally used heat at night with the roof down. At one point, I thought I heard my engine louder than normal, but decided it was actually machinery nearby.
The next morning, after only about 1 hour of leisurely driving through a civil war park for about an hour, I confirmed that in fact it was my vehicle making the noise.
It was fairly frequent, and basically sounds and feels (hand on air filter) like the blower kicking on, as if to cool the car off.
But the air temp was cool, the car temp was solid and cool, so there wasn't a good reason for this to be happening.
Because I had just had the timing belt & such done, I stopped at a dealer. The engine light came on as I pulled in.
They indicated that they saw a MAF sensor failure, and that while it needed to be replaced, it wasn't a problem to finish my road trip. They indicated the check engine light was related and also ok to drive with. They then lost a lot of credibility when they tried to ask me if perhaps the AM radio was the noise I was hearing...
Despite that, I continued on (had to be somewhere and they said it was ok to drive). The engine light actually went off the next time I filled up, so I decided perhaps that was actually a gas cap pressure issue (saw that once before in my ~6 years of driving the car).
Back at my home Toyota shop, they confirmed the MAF replacement need, and have also suggested spark plugs (fair enough).
But re: the air, they don't believe it sounds 'wrong'. I agree with that- it sounds 'right', as in when the blower kicks on, and I vaguely recall that it was something I heard back when my radiator actually rusted out / failed.
My issue is that it seems to be happening MUCH more frequently than normal.
So while I don't recall hearing it at all over the past couple years or only on very rare occasions under load, or when the radiator failed, it seems to be almost routine now, where at a given stop light (even in just a few miles of driving in town at low speeds), I'll hear the extra noise.
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My 06 Prius seems to be a little louder than usual when the motor is running. What could be going on? Just had the hybrid battery, water pump and belt replaced, but it still seems to be making the same noise.
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