I have a 1995 Chevy S10 with a ghost. The vehicle shuts off unexpectedly and will crank but not restart. It has been in the shop now for over 2 weeks with no sign of getting fixed. The Crankshaft sensor has been replaced, but this did not fix the problem.
View 3 RepliesWhen I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?
View 2 RepliesI got a mkv R32 with 57k miles (DSG transmission) on it and the past few weeks ive been having some crazy issues. My car shuts off once in awhile when I come to a stop in traffic or at red lights. Last night it happen again I came to a red light and the car shut off, when I restarted it my idle was bouncing all over the place all the way up to 2500rpm and down to 1300rpm. Also, in addition to the idle every time i started pressing the gas the car would KICK like something was wrong with the transmission and a CEL came on. I ran the codes and it said MAF was at fault and I have had a MAF code again maybe a month ago.
I am thinking of replacing the MAF to see if it fixes the problem and I was wondering if it is a straight hardware swap or will i need to do some programming with a vag com?
As of yesterday evening my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 1500, shuts off while im driving. Takes about two to five minutes to get it going again (has shut off a couple times) Starts up fine idles great, problems start about a mile or two of being driven.
View 1 Repliesmy daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
View 1 RepliesMy 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
View 19 RepliesMy 2001 Saab 9-5 has 156,000 miles and is generally in fine working condition. An irregularity in starting began about two months ago which will happen say once every twenty times the car is driven for more than twenty minutes or so.
The car always starts when the engine is cold, first time each day. After driving for awhile then stopping for a quick errand, more than 90% of the time the car will restart, less then 10 % of the time it does not. The engine does not crank at all, only a faint click noise. I can try starting again a number of times with the same noise and result.
However, after 20-25 minutes have passed the car will start as it normally should. Seems to me somehow the problem relates to the cooling off period. Does this make sense?
Is it a switch, a loose wire on the starter, internal wear on the starter motor? Is it a clue that it takes about the same amount of time before it will restart?
It just started to die on him lately. Doesn't matter if he is driving or idling. When it dies doesnt sputter or anything. Won't crank up until next day and if it does start only runs for 5 min or so. Checked ficm 48.5 volts. Ipr while cranking is at 48% icp is about 1200 while cranking. The dash oil pressure or rpm gauge does not move but when I hook up my ids it shows 180 rpm. Changed fuel filters. New oil. Does fill up oil canister if I hold the drane button down. Getting fuel. Thought maybe ipr but thought I would check with you all. Unplugging the icp doesn't work. 03 motor with 180k miles.
View 9 RepliesMy 96 chevy s10 will not start after it heats up when you turn the key dash lights come on but starter will not turn over engine i have to wait about an hour i have replaced the ignition switch, starter and ignition control module....
View 1 RepliesI just replaced computer brain and finally it works and 6 miles later same symptoms again. Its unreliable, will start wont drive, drive and quit and wont start. I replaced : cps emc ecm coil packs sparkplug wires sparkplugs pvc valve inline fuel filter
I have tried anything someone says.....like loose or bad gas cap can let water in your fuel. if thats true or not I put heat in to dry up any water problem put premium fuel in my truck. Changed the oil ever 3 thousand miles. Its my work truck never took it out in the woods and abused it never raced any cars with it. Just babied it and tried to get as much mileage out of her as possible.
Ok so the basics first. The car is a 1990 Honda Civic DX hatchback. The swap is a 1999 Acura Integra GS-R. For about 3 months the car has been a no start. I would get 12 volts to the coil but they would not spark at the wires. I tested the wires for contiuity and they tested good. After trying multiple different harnesses and things the car seems to be in worse shape. The current problems are that it was blowing the 10volt alternator fuse everytime I keyed it to the ON(II) position. I unplugged the alternator and now it doesnt blow the fuse. I have fuel now and the CEL comes on and goes out as it should but the battery light does not come on at all. Im not sure if that is because I have the alt. unplugged. The main problem is that the car no longer cranks. Im back to the original harness that the car had cranked with before but now everytime I go to crank (turn he key to the START(III) position) the car the car shuts off. I checked the grounds and theyre all good. The fuses in both boxes are good as well. I dont know if its getting spark yet because it doesnt crank.
View 4 RepliesHaving problems with the truck - either a no crank situation and now a complete shut down while driving at any speed.
Dash is blank with no power when truck shuts down, here is the hitch with the no crank, I pulled and replaced the PCM module and the truck fired up without hesitation. I had to do this a few times over the course of today to get home. I can live with having to do that for a while but it is unnerving to have the truck shut down with 0 notice.
Throttle body was just cleaned, and all starter/battery connections cleaned and protected. Brand new PCM relay. What does this relay have to do with reset, for clean start up after removing it and then just putting it back in it's place? Would there be any solutions for the dies completely while driving, or fails to crank?
I was driving home and my dash shut off and motor then came back on. Thought to my self hmm not good. Then she did it again. Then thought well that will be hard to find if it only does it two times. I will fix it when it happens more would be easier to find. Then off and coasting down the road. Now on the side of the road. But from what I can till now it seems like my pcm is not getting power. I was able to crank and get it fired then shuts down and will crank but keeps kicking the starter out.
Now it will not crank lift pump not running and injectors not doing there pretty firing sound. I don't have anything to check fuses with me just going to tow it to my shop and look at it tomorrow. But the fuse panel is not label at all so is there print out I can get of that? I'm a diesel tech so I'm not really to worried. Can't pull codes or Talk with my sct programmer so makes me think. ecm no power or fried,
My 2005 Chevy Impala is taking a long time to crank. Now after 10 minutes or so of either idiling or driving, the car stalls out. I am able to restart it. Replaced the battery and no change. Lights are not getting dim in any way so I figure it's not the alternator. Could it be a bad starter?
View 2 RepliesI just bought a used 98 chevy metro. I drove it over a total of 30 miles on test drives. Every thing was as it should be. Now it dies at idle and is difficult to restart. I have to wait til it cools down completely to get it to fire again.
View 1 RepliesCold start ok . Problem arises after engine is at operating temp. After stopping for whatever and attempting to restart, dash no longer lights up with key in on position but starter cranks and engine won't start. Leave key in on position for about a min.dash lights back up and engine starts.
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....
I've got a 2001 Chevy Prizm (160,000 miles) Starts right up-after I drive for awhile and turn the engine off. It won't restart at times - I have to wait anywhere between 5 and 20 minutes till the engine will start again. The engine cranks - so it's not the starter or the battery.
View 4 RepliesI have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
View 1 Replies02 Chevy Impala with 177,000 miles has re-starting problems for last 20,000 miles. New Battery, cleaned throttle plate, new fuel pump, check engine light on (emission problem was told to me by mechanic). Whats going on?
When the car runs it runs very well...to get the car started, just wait, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes longer than an hour. All the time periodically cranking the engine...just does not start. But when it does start, it runs very well.
This problems occurs only after the car has started and is warm. Let it sit for a while then restarting the problem occurs.
I have a '08 uplander. transmission & alternator installed within the last 6wks. battery purchased xmas 2010. car starts goes a few blocks then shuts down. Looking to alleviating this problem?
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