Chevrolet - S-10 :: Service Engine Soon Light Comes On After Driving For About 5 To 10 Minutes
May 14, 2012
I have a 1992 Chevy S10 with 84,000K on it. It drives fine but when I get on the interstate and am driving 65mph for about 5-10 minutes the 'service engine soon' light comes on sometimes it takes longer. It only does it when I'm driving on the interstate and not if I'm just driving around town. It also doesnt turn on all the time but when it does come on it stays on until I turn the engine off.
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On my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
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A few weeks ago, my 1993 S-10 began showing the service engine light sporadically over a couple of weeks. Then, while I was stopped and idling at a red light, the engine revved up really high suddenly for no reason. A few days later, as the automatic shifted from 2nd to 3rd it jerked a little, as if I'd tapped the brakes or something.Around the time all this was going on, I heard something on Car Talk about the radiator and transmission being linked somehow. I checked my radiator, and sure enough the coolant was very cloudy and kinda sandy. I flushed the coolant and refilled and all the weird little transmission quirks seemed to vanish after that. Until yesterday, when the symptoms started appearing again.
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I've been having my 'service engine soon' light turn on in my 1999 Chevy Blazer. It has an automatic transmission and 60,000 miles. I first disconnected the battery to turn off the light and to see if it would turn on again. It turned on again so I took it to AutoZone for an obd2 scan and got codes P0300 and P0442. I replaced the spark plugs and spark plug cables and the light turned off, but then turned back on after a week. I'm starting to think the problem is something simple like the gas cap.
The rubber film around the cap has a few tears, but are the tears significant enough to cause the light to turn on?
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My 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
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Driving while in 4x4 HI up a hill the truck started to slip. I stopped, shifted to neutral, and engaged 4x4 Low. I shifted back to drive and started moving up the hill. The engine started to lose power and the "Service Engine Soon" light began to blink. I put the truck in park. As I let it run a little bit, the engine started to shake as if something was very imbalanced. I went to check under the hood, and confirmed that it was shaking quite noticeably. There was no grinding or clattering of any kind though.
I turned the truck off for a bit, and then restarted. There was no light or shaking upon starting up; but as soon as I put it in gear and started driving I could tell it was losing power, the light came back on, and the shaking ensued. This occurred in 2wd, and both 4wd lo and hi. I parked it at a neighbors place and there it sits for now.
I plan to try and get the codes read. My other vehicles can't make it through the snow we have right now, but it is suppose to get warm later today and might melt enough for me to get one out. I also live out in the country, so the nearest auto parts place is about 20 miles. Same with a dealership service shop. I'm hoping I can buy and return a code reader from an auto parts store to assess if this is something I can diagnose myself or not.
It is the 6.0l gas engine with the 4sp automatic transmission. The truck also has about 107,000 miles.
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1999 F250 Super Duty. My service engine light came on while driving doing around 65 mph. Truck seems to be running normal, no loss of power or acceleration. It's a 5.4L with 104000.
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04 Kia Optima (116,000miles) will drive ok for 20 min. or so (last time 10 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, turn a corner, or drive on hills (basically any condition) and it suddenly acts up after a small jerk (engine light comes and goes and I cannot get anyone to read codes correctly). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops if it gets really bad and it wont come down from above 40mph unless I break and feels like it wants to stall when trying to accelerate again after stops and difficult to sometimes get past 30/40mph, Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
I have had the PO335Crank shaft position sensor replaced three times, (last time by dealer) New battery, new spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well. Every time I take it in (6 or 7 times, different places), they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" .... I am curious about broken flexpipe..
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My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
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@75000 miles my first check engine light. Here are my symptoms......
~After i shut the car off the fan keeps on blowing at a very high rate as if the car is over heating, its currently 45-50 degrees.
~On cold morning when i start the car up and turn the steering wheel I hear a very loud whining sound, but after driving for about 20 min and the car has warmed up the sound goes away.
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My check engine light has come on, and I have white smoke coming from under my hood when I drive. I'm trying to diagnose this and fix it. My mechanic had my car for a whole day and told me he needed more time to find out what it is.
My car is a 2002 chevy impala, and the smoke only comes after about 10 minutes of driving, and only lasts for about five minutes. When I open my hood, it seems the smoke is coming from the right side of my engine, maybe underneath, but it's hard to tell, but when I look just below the right side of the engine it does look to be a little bit wet down there. The smoke has a kind of sweet smell. So far, the car is still running fine.
The smoke only comes the first time I drive my car for the day.
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My air bag service light just came on. I have a Chevy Silverado 2005 with 195,000 miles. Any clues?
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2004 chevy cavalier ... when i first start up the car & put it into the drive, it acts like it's going to stall and the low traction light comes on. if i go slow enough, the light will go out, if not both the ABS and NO TRAC and the SERVICE lights will come on. i took it to a repair shop a year ago and they jiggled the wires by the left front wheel and said they'd have to look into it more since I was there for them to just check out the brakes (they were fine). after they jiggled the wires, the problem didn't happen for another couple of months. today i took it to a chevy dealer & they said i needed to replace the left front speed sensor & harness. I just got my oil changed on the way home, the usual warning lights never came on when they would doing the usual starting up and backing out of parking spots. do you think that just a wire is loose and every time i have them look at it, it reconnects?
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I have been to 3 mechanics including the dealer and no one can re-create my problem. While driving on the expressway at speeds of 60-70 mph after about 20 minutes the car will start to bog down and then stall. It will start right back up but then you can only go a mile or less and it will do it again. It has to sit for 20-30 minutes before it will go a longer distance. This is a daily event since we drive the car to work on the expressway and, of course, it takes 30 minutes to get there. What I have done: replaced the ignition coils (no change) replaced the fuel pump/filter (no change) replaced the throttle body (this fixed the problem for about a month or two. I had to buy a used throttle body because I could not find a new one) In any case if the problem is the throttle body what is making it go bad?
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My 2001 Chevy Venture stalls after driving it approximately 15 minutes and won't start for about 20-30 minutes, then same problem occurs. I've had the following parts replaced to date, with no success.
AIR FILTER
ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM
IGNITION MODULE
FUEL PUMP AND WIRING
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
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I have a 95 s10 4.3L V6 auto with 92k miles.
This all started when one day on my way to work the temp gauge got to 260 then quickly fell. It has not gotten that hot since then.
When I start the truck cold and start driving, the gauge climbs to about 215-230 within 10 minutes of driving. Once the gauge hits what ever is the magic mark for the day it quickly falls (10 seconds or less) to about 170-180. Sometimes it will "cycle" up again to 200 or so then fall back to 170-180. Once it is done moving around it stays low and will not move much as I am driving.
I bought an IR thermometer and measured the temperature at various points in the cooling system. The top of the thermostat housing is about 195 or 200 right after it climbs and drops. If I drive for a while around town then check it, the housing reads hotter, about 220 max.
There does not seem to be enough temperature drop across the radiator, I have measured about 15 degrees difference max between the hoses and on some days only 10 degrees difference.
I have replaced the fan clutch (was bad or going bad), the thermostat, and the radiator cap.
After none of this fixed it, I took it to a mechanic who did a "block test" at my request and said it was fine. He thought what it was doing, climbing and falling was normal.
If I run it without the radiator cap on I do not see much if any flow when I look down into the radiator.
Right now I am thinking of doing the water pump and flushing the radiator this weekend.
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I have a 2008 Malibu LS and the service traction light comes on randomly, I suspect a sensor. The car operates fine and this light has been coming on for several months. My question is can I just ignore? Another question is that I had new tires put on and they said I needed new control arms and bushings. I'm always suspicious when I go in for one thing and told I need something else. What would be the symptoms that I need to replace these parts?
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I got a code reading of P1404 on a 2000 Impala from the parts store, but they can't say for sure what it means. What this would be? The service vehicle soon light comes on.
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I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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