Chevrolet - S-10 :: Runs Rough At Startup
Aug 10, 2011
1996 s-10 runs very rough at start-up .. smooths out after it warms up and runs really great. Is it just the plugs and wires or something else??
View 1 Replies1996 s-10 runs very rough at start-up .. smooths out after it warms up and runs really great. Is it just the plugs and wires or something else??
View 1 RepliesMy V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
View 2 RepliesI've taken it to a half dozen mechanics, none can diagnose the problem. From a cold start the engine idles well, but once it warms up and the fast idle setting shuts off, it begins to vibrate quite a bit. I rebuild that included an all new fuel injection system, new ignition parts (including distributor, replaced at a later date,) new wire to alternator (the old one had cracked insulation,) and a new mass airflow sensor (swapped in from a parts van-no effect.)
Basically everything is new except for the sensors (crank sensor, idle air, throttle position, etc.,) and the fuel filter and pump. I'm not getting any codes, and at least two mechanics said it had good fuel pressure. It FEELS like a vacuum problem on a carburetor vehicle, but I had the vacuum harness checked as well, and everything seems to be in order.
I have a 2005 Chevy Equinox with 73K miles. When I first start it up morning the car runs rough for about a minute or two and then smooths out. I took it to a mechanic who said there was oil on one of the plugs and to get rid of the car. I tried another mechanic on Craigslist and he replaced the upper plenum gaskets. It ran better for about a day or two and now the problem has resurfaced.
View 2 RepliesMy pickup runs smooth 95% of the time. It runs rough at red lights and when pulling away from stops. It seems to happen more when the A/C is on.
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
View 1 RepliesThis problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 f350 6.0 and did head studs with the egr delete and Warren diesel Injectors 155cc. I have both warrens tunning and loney wild tunes.
In all the tunes when i first start the truck up after sitting for a while it will rev real high. Like when i was a kid and tried to impress someone and catch the motor as soon as it fired up and rev it real quick. I mean it sounds cool but i don't want it to do it for obvious reasons. It also gets out of control when you are driving it down the road until its warmed up. If you just try and drive it normal it will start to take off once it gets around 1500 rpms unless you really feather the peddle. Its almost as if its getting to much fuel but it does it with both tunes.
In the tow mode the truck tows like crap. I can literally have the peddle to the floor and it struggles to move a 10k car trailer. I really just wanted a more fuel efficient truck that had a little pep. Now i wished i had left it stock with the new studs.
It has happened three times now on cold startup my car makes this loud hissing sound then the car runs normally. Once a few months ago. Again a few weeks ago and this morning it was pretty cold maybe low 50's. I normally turn the key in the ignition to the "acc" position let it "ding" once then start the car. What could this loud hissing be that only happens on cold startup then the car runs like nothing happened? I called my local mechanic and he said he wouldn't know if he can't recreate the sound. Which you really can't because it happens once every blue moon but I wanna make sure I'm not ignoring a problem that could get worse.
View 9 RepliesThe A/C is not working in my 2002 S-10. Currently the compressor runs, but the air is not getting cool. I tried adding freon, but it has not worked. The low side pressure is about 50 psi, and would drop a few pounds when the compressor is started, but it drops no further. I have not noticed the compressor cycling while it is on. The can of refrigerant is not empty, but the system does not seem to be taking any more from that can.
Do I just need to add some more coolant from a fresh can, or is something else at work here. Also, probably unrelated, when down shifting it is fairly common for the air to switch from blowing up front to blowing on the defrost.
basically it runs rough and makes noise when AC is on. While it may not be perfect when off, it certainly is quieter. Check engine light just came on.
View 5 RepliesThe car is a 2000 passat v6 with ~135k, auto trans. Well when the car is cranked it takes a bit to get running and once it does, black(wet) specs come out the exhaust and go all cover the surrounding area of the tailpipe. When the a/c is off it almost sounds like it is running normal but when the a/c is on(at idle) the engine runs very rough, it almost sounds like a misfire. It does have a check engine light, but i have no obd2 scanner, and from what i've been reading might not even do me any good because of vag com?
View 5 Replies2010 Cobalt, LS 2.2 Ecotec, with 13.7k miles. Oil level normal and battery voltage = 12.5V.
I've bought the car new in Feb. 2001. Car started and ran normally for the work commute on Friday, 9/2. Today the Cobalt starts normally, runs for 2-3 seconds, and then stalls. The accelerator has no effect. It's already been towed to the dealer..
I have a 56 Belair with a small block 327 in it. Runs hot when idling or slow speed. Original radiator with brass cowling on top. Can the radiator be cored or cleaned out? Is there a fluid that will work? How about a special oil?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 Town Car with 40 K Miles.
Engine runs rough at most slow rpm's .
No codes and I change : new sparks plugs / new Fuel Filter / new air filter /
New oil / new ATF / good MPG , everything good but runs to rough.
Have an 94 LTC and this car runs better.
I have a 1995 GMC that I have owned since new. It has 212,000 miles on it, a 305 TBI, and a manual five speed. It started running bad all at once. It idles rough, at different speeds and never settles down, (between 900 and 1300 rpm. It smells like raw gas, smokes, and has no power to get started from a stop. I checked the vacuum, it is at 19" at all rpms. The MAP sensor reads 0.3VDC when off, 4.12VDC when idling, and 1.5VDC at WOT. It appears to have 12PSI fuel pressure (after a messy test set up!) on the fuel pump side of the fuel filter (filter replaced 10,000 miles ago). The EGR valve appears to cycle OK when I suck on the vacuum line so I assume it works OK. I found a bad TBI flange gasket and replaced it. It runs slightly better but still smells like raw gas and has no power. When I try to accelerate, it immediately has no power, like a big vacuum leak. The idle is close to normal (900rpm = normal). Do I just start replacing parts?
View 9 Replies1995 G20 5.7L... This van runs great when first started and continues to run fine after it's warmed up and will do so until it’s turned off and restarted. When first started vacuum at idle is steady at 21” and 10” at 55mph cruising speed. I can continue driving for an hour or so and it will continue to run fine. It's only when I shut it down and restart after 20 minutes or so that I have a rough running condition. After parking for 10 to 20 minutes and restarting idle is still steady at 21” vacuum but the van hesitates on acceleration and runs rough at cruise with a 5” vacuum. If I continue to drive I get low vacuum trouble codes for the MAP and Oxygen sensors. I’ve replaced the oxygen sensor and performed a diagnostic on the MAP sensor which checks out ok. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks – none found. I've replaced the spark plugs, cap and rotor. What to look at next?
View 8 RepliesI'm working on a 06' Passat 2.0t and it runs rough only at idle like its misfiring only vag-com says no misfires and no engine codes. MAF looks like it may be a little low on performance but should be ok. I tried swapping out coil packs but no change. I changed the pcv breather and hose, cleaned the carbon off the valves, swapped the throttle body with a known good one, and changed the piston on the fuel pump and still no change. It smooths out when I turn the a/c on but that's the only thing that changes the idle.
View 7 RepliesBefore and after this speed it runs fine, so what could it be. The check engine light is now on all the time.
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 Impala runs hot when pulling a long grade and I have to turn off the a/c. It runs fine every other time. New belts, hoses, thermostat and flushed completely with new coolant. The radiator is fine and a/c coils are clean also
View 2 RepliesI used a OBD scan tool and all it told me was my idle air control system rpm is lower than expected and my evaporative system has a high purge flow. What this means, can I fix it or do I have to send it to a shop. Also when idling the short term fuel trim 1 is at -3% whatever that means.
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