Chevrolet - S-10 :: Intermittent Starting / Acts Like Wants To Fire But Will Not
Apr 22, 2014
I am working on a 1995 S10 Blazer. it has a 4.3l vortex. The vehicle runs good. The problem is when it is shut off at end of day. Then the next morning it will not start. Then at a different time in the same morning it will start and run all day. I have fiddled with it when it will not start. It acts like it wants to fire but will not start. If I am persistent with it and crank and pump the hell out of it eventually it will start. I have checked the fuel pressure when it will not start and it is good. There is also spark. I don't know what to check next. I has been cold when it does this. What to look at?
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2005 Bonneville SE. 3.8 liter V6 46,000 miles.
I just purchased the car in September of 2013 and it's in great shape. Over the past couple of months, I have noticed every once in a while, it won't fire right away after turning over. To get it to start, I have to press down on the accelerator once or twice while cranking. The problem seems to occur when the engine is relatively warm. It seems to have no issues after the car has been sitting over night.
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2002 7.3 PS TD.
Lately sometimes when I get in and start the truck all is well. Then the next time it will spin like a top, but not fire. New batteries. Then it will fire right up. It may go a few weeks, or days, then it happens again. Temperature does not seem to be a factor. It also doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Once when rounding a corner at low speed, it just died, then started right up.
I recently changed the fuel and air filters. I think the glow plugs are getting old. In cool weather I turn the key on for about 1 min. before cranking. I have 110,000 on the engine with all original parts.
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I have a 2003 Impala 3.4 with an intermittent starting issue. It starts perfectly every morning but after it is hot and I park it over 15 minutes or so it will sometimes not start. All the regular dash lights come on as normal but when the key is turned it does not even try to turn over, it is just silence, To get it started I have to hit the column shift lever upward several times and then it will kick right off with no hesitation. Sometimes I have to turn the key 10-20 times to get it started also. I had the battery, starter and alternator tested under load and they are all fine. It is not the security problem either that many impalas have. The only code I have is a PO 336 for crankshaft position sensors. Is there some kind of linkage in the column that could be worn that could cause this?
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My son has a 2000 Impala which will not start if it has been warmed up and then turned off for 30-40 minutes. If you turn it off and wait 15 minutes it will start every time - wait much longer and you are stranded. The starter sounds normal and you would think it is going to start but it won't. The car sat at the dealership for 2 weeks and they couldn't solve the problem. If the car is cold it starts every time.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
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New battery installed a few weeks ago - 120k on 2001 Silverado. When it is rainy out, the gauge acts erratically (yesterday the needle was between 14 and 19, today it is between 9 and 14 and the battery light is on. What can I check to figure out what might be happening?
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I have a 04 6.0 and lost with it. I parked it the other night and in the morning I went to start it and it acts like it's only running on half the cylinders. I haven't had any issues till now so I replaced fuel filters and air cleaner is fresh but no change. It is not throwing a check engine light it isn't smoking excessively. I don't know where to check next.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
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I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.
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My 05 GP randomly decides not to start. it turns over well but no fire . Sometimes even when I just stop for gas when its already warm. if I leave it for a few minutes usually it will start, run a little rough for a minute then run fine till next episode. no faults show up. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump relay was acting up.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry Le that has been giving me some problems lately . The problem I am having is sometimes when I try to start my car it just seems to keep turning over and over but will not fire. It does it randomly. Some days it will start with no problem n then the next it does not want to start.
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I am at my wit's end with my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder. In the last four months we have had periodic problems starting it. It will act like it wants to crank but won't fire up. However, a local mechanic and the Nissan dealer can't determine the problem. They have: ~ recharged the battery ~ replaced the battery cables ~ replaced the spark plugs ~ tested the fuel pressure ~ replaced the ECM relay ~ replaced the adjusted steering angle sensor Of course, it starts right up at the shop so they can't duplicate the problem.
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My father inlaw has a dodge van that is having problems starting. When starting it will crank, but will not fire. We have discovered that if you remove the 20 amp Oxygen Sensor relay, under the hood, and jump it directly to the battery, while starting if will start. The fuse appears to be good. Can the O2 sensor relay prevent the van from starting, but run after initially bypassing after starting? What it might be?
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My wife owns a 2004 hyundai santa fe, and recently i replaced the belt and idle pulley, I've worked on a few cars in my life and understand the basics and some on how to work on a car.But this has me baffled, the other day i decided to take her car to work. She warned me it had a a slow turn over sometimes i told her okay and headed off to work, drove fine to work no start up issue, but then i went to lunch and it had a slow start like she said. Then in the afternoon started just fine for the drive home to work. I stopped at a gas station to put a little fuel in and the car wouldn't start, it would just release a small cloud of smoke from where the the starter was, so i said ah loose starter wire. That however isn't the case, pulled the plastic shield from the bottom off abd the heat shield off the starter just to find nothing was wrong with either instead its the wire above that running from the wiring harness to the motor, how to fix this issue? Ive attached a few photos
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil. I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. If you need any info off the scangauge let me know and I will post the exact readings. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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On the wifes Santa Fe 2.4 AWD every few starts it seems to crank over longer than it should. It will usually crank right up like it is supposed to. Every few times it may take 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire.
The car runs great, averages over 30mpg per the computer. No codes. I don't have a clue what it could be.
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2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
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2002 7.3 Power Stroke... I bought the truck about 4 months ago and I absolutely love it but over the last few weeks is has been acting funny at times, it doesn't do it all the time but it has been getting progressively worse, ill drive the truck all day and no problems when I shut it off and go to start it again it just cranks but won't fire.
* Batteries are charged and in good condition, oil is a little dirty but full, I have no codes or check engine light on, and my wait to start light seems to be working fine!
* If I supply a fuel source(starting fluid) the truck will fire but not stay running
* And let it sit for 15 to 45 minutes fires right up like there was never an issue.
* There are no blown fuses
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Recently my '92 Chevy Lumina (115,600 miles) has taken to not "firing" after I turn it on. It has a brand-new battery and altenator so there's plenty of current. I usually try to get it running 3 or 4 times and if it won't go, I leave it so as to not wear down the battery. It's as if it's not getting any fuel and yes, I do have gas in the tank. I've had the pressure in the fuel pump checked and it was within normal range although on the low end. I can wait 30 seconds or 6 hours and eventually it will "fire" and run.
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Vehicle: 2000 Chevy Express 3500 passenger van 5.7L
History: Low fuel pressure when starting. If the van sat longer than 24 hours it wouldn't start without a squirt of starting fluid. I suspected it was the fuel pump but didn't get around to changing it. My wife put in "extra" starting fluid one afternoon and tried to start the van - there was a small explosion which blew up the air cleaner housing and started a fire. She put the fire out with an extinguisher. The fire was restricted to the air cleaner media and housing and burned for about 45 seconds.
Repairs: I cleaned up the extinguisher material and replaced filter housing and media. I checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail - pressure gauge read zero. I checked the relay and all of the fuses - everything was in good shape. I looked for a fuel cutoff switch but the Chevy tech I talked to said there isn't one on that year of van - he recommended that I disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to reset the system. I did that too. Still no fuel pressure. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Still no fuel pressure.
Current Status: The engine will crank and if I put starting fluid in the van will turn over and run as long as there is starting fluid. When the accelerant is gone the engine stops running. Again, it will crank but there is no fuel pressure at the rail. The manual says the pressure should be 85 lbs with the key on and engine off and then 45 - 55 lbs running.
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