Chevrolet - S-10 :: 2003 - Loud Grating Noise / Reverse Gear Would Not Work
Jul 12, 2011
Not really even sure how to explain this problem. The other day while driving the car made a loud grating noise, which would stop if I kept giving it gas, but would persist while braking or simply slowing down naturally. This continued until I reached my destination (drove fine), but when I got home, my reverse gear would not work. I tried putting it into 4wd, and reverse worked again (and also in 2wd). What on earth is wrong w/ my truck?
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When my vent is on the face setting, a grating/whistling noise emanates when the fan is on.This does not happen on the floor or defrost positions. The noise diminishes when it is in the face and partial floor or defrost setting. What may be causing the noise and how I could fix it.
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I have a 2011 E Sedan and recently started hearing a loud grating noise from the passenger front wheel area. It only happens when turning the wheel to the left. It isn't a popping noise like the traditional CV Joint and the boot is still intact.
I jacked the front up today and put it on jack stands. I pulled the tire, caliper, caliper mounting bracket, and rotor to look at the dust shield and there was no sign of it rubbing, nor was there any other wear marks. With everything still disassembled, I turned the wheel hub with my hands and noticed the same, though fainter, sound. I started the car and put it in drive and once again the same noise was coming from the hub assembly area, although I didn't use a stethoscope to listen.
The noise is more profound when under load turning left, but it still seems to coming from the same area. My plan is to replace the entire wheel hub assembly since they aren't that expensive. That, and I don't want to go through the headache of puling everything apart to simply replace the bearings.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu, automatic transmission. When I put it in reverse and then press the gas pedal, I get a rather loud grinding noise for a couple of seconds. What is causing this, and is it doing any real damage? I have no other problems with the transmission.
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I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
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I have a 2002 f150 4.6L triton. I've been having problems with it making a clicking noise. It only does it when its in gear. I put it in park or natural I hear nothing. But as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and put a little pressure on throttle it starts to tick pretty loudly.
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it all started out like this. i was unable to go into reverse took it to a shop when first and second were good. Came out of the shop after inspection and now i can shift into first or second gear but not the rest, its stuck in those two and they do not work. do i need a new trans or is it a shift fork and or linkage?
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Reverse gear doesn't work on my 1999 F350, is the transmission need to be rebuilt? or it can be adjust thru the cable. the rest gears on transmission is Ok.
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Ok so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
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Transmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
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2012 Trailblazer 4x4. Got up this morning to go to work, no reverse gear. I pushed it out & drove to work (15 miles). Got to work & reverse works fine now. Drove home & parked. An hour later I go out & again, no reverse. What's going on?
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Sometimes when putting the vehicle into first it's almost impossible to get it to go into gear. Sometimes it's super smooth. Also when putting into reverse we hear a loud clunk. That one is most of the time but sometimes it goes in smooth. I was doing some looking around at the pedals because I think I am going to have to replace my master cylinder and noticed that on the inside of the vehicle where the clutch master cylinder comes into the vehicle it's leaking black fluid. Does that automatically mean my clutch master cylinder needs to be changed? Could this be the cause of it being difficult to shift because the clutch isn't fully disengaging?
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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What can I do about my car it's not shifting, it's stuck in high gear and when I go from park to reverse it makes a loud thump. The check engine light came on and the codes are transmission control module it's a 2006 and only has 30,000 miles on it. It's hard to believe it's the brain so we changed the fluid and cleaned the sylinoids but then when I drove it around the block I put it in reverse it didn't make the loud noise and it shifted fine for a minute before I got around the block and almost home it made a loud banging noise and went back to not shifting again. What the problem could be.
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Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
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Shifter seem like it is way too loud going from gear to gear? Just holding in the clutch and rowing from gear to gear...seems way too loud, Seriously sounds like shifting gears in my old 5.0 mustang.
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I drove our 2007 Prius (79K miles) the other day and noticed a whirring or slight grating noise whenever I loaded up the left front wheel (by steering right) at speed. It's far from a hum or a howl at this point.
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So whenever I put my car in reverse and back up my car makes incredibly loud and messed up noises. What's going on and if this is a major or minor issue? At first it wasn't as loud now it's head turning people at the mall literally stop and stare at me its embarrassing...
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My wife has a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe with abut 100K. She did something and doesn't know what but now the car beeps anytime you put it in reverse. No big deal, it's just annoying. I've checked the book and can't find out to disable. How to disable this on a tahoe or know what to look for in the owner's manual.
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I am trying to track down where exactly a clunk is coming from on a 2003 Explorer 4x4(auto, hi, low). My buddy brought it by my house yesterday and i cannot pin point it. If you put the truck in reverse, once you hit the gas, it clunks pretty loud. If you just put it in reverse, let off the brake, it will not do it until you hit the gas.
I got the explorer up in the air and crawled under it. I had my buddy switch from forward to reverse, and back again. Every time he let off the brake in forward or reverse, it would clunk. The reverse clunk was definitely louder.
It does the clunks in all settings, -auto,hi,low. No flashing dash lights. The dash lights do come on accordingly. One thing he pointed out was the Auto,HI,Low Buttons themselves are not backlit anymore. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
I cannot narrow it down as the whole transfer case, front driveshaft and front diff, shake with the clunk. U joints don't seem to have play (prying with small prybar). I then went ahead and unplugged the big wire connector at the transfer case and the clunk went away.
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Having issues with brake noise when only in reverse? I have extremely loud break noise only when I reverse out. Could this just mean I need to get a break change?
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