Chevrolet - S-10 :: 2001 - Hissing Air Noise From Belt Area Of Chevy
Sep 27, 2011
I own a 2001 Chevy s10 4.3 litter engine 2 wheel drive truck. Every time I accelerate I hear a hissing air sound like a vacuum cleaner from the belt/pulley areas. I've changed the alternator, a pulley, the tensioner, the air compressor, and the power steering pump is only 5,000 miles old. The sound has not gone away. I have no engine overheating or anti freeze leaks and the power steering works fine. When I first changed the power steering, the wheel was super hard to turn and it would sporadically get easier; now it us easy to turn. What could be causing this sound? I rather not change the water pump now.
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O2 PASSAT 1.8t had crankcase vent recall performed now there is a hissing noise coming from that area that reacts with engine speed. Also I notice that hose that plugs into the intake manifold, from the new gizmo they installed ,COLLAPSES when the engine starts?
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my 2002 chevy s-10 started making an air/hissing noise inside the cab. It seems to be coming from around the air conditioner controls (center front). It hisses while running, whether moving or not, does not change when the air conditioner or fan is running or not, but does improve when accelerating quickly. What could this be and would it be an easy fix or a professional job (my husband restores old cars, but doesn't do a lot with the newer ones)?
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I've got a 2001 Chevy Prizm (160,000 miles) Starts right up-after I drive for awhile and turn the engine off. It won't restart at times - I have to wait anywhere between 5 and 20 minutes till the engine will start again. The engine cranks - so it's not the starter or the battery.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GL 4 DR (Canadian model). It has 88,000 km on it and has been maintained well.
For the past 2-3 weeks I have been here a squeaking noise from the engine bay that sounded like a bad belt. Sometimes it appears and sometimes it's quiet. I brought my car to a local shop to just switch the tires over and I asked them to take a look but they didn't notice anything and he said the belt is nice and tight. Of course when I leave the shop the noise starts. The noise happens sometimes when driving and while in park so it's not related to motion of the vehicle.
I took the engine cover off and it sounded like it was coming from the left (belt side) side towards the mid-rear of the engine.
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Its coming from the Belt area on the engine, only at start/idle goes away completely after 10 mins. I spayed oil on all the pulleys but its still there.
[URL] ....
What did it turn out to be? Safe to drive ?
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There has been a noise coming from the serpentine belt area for some times now, and I thought when I get to work on the belt I will get it fixed.
Last night, I replaced the alternator with a brand new one from idpart with a clutch pulley (the original pulley was plastic). I also replaced the tensioner and serpentine belt with this kit from ECS: [URL] .....
Everything was put back tight and nicely. Turned on the engine: the noise is still there.
For sure there is one pulley on its way out, but with one?
Video here: [URL] .....
Noticeable @ 0:47
It's a 2.0 AVH Jetta.
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My 2004 mercury sable is making a noise it sounds like its one of the pulleys on the belt area, What it might be it a grinding almost....
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Rattling noise in the belt area of the engine...
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So, when I was leaving work I started my car up and heard what sounds like a low grinding noise coming from the area where the serpentine belt is. Let the car idle and it remained.
Put the car in gear and drove off and the sound was still there. the sound gets louder as I increase my speed. It went away a couple of times when I was braking, then came back.
I stopped at the gas station and could still hear it. After getting gas, fired the car back up and heard nothing. When I drove off, the sound returned.
I got home and put it in park, leaving the car on, opened the hood and could still hear the noise. Pressed and held the gas a few times and the sound did get louder.
I am pretty sure it is coming from some rotating part, but no clue what part. What this could be?
recap:
-get noise on startup
-while driving noise gets louder
-sometimes it stops when braking
-sound coming from area of serpentine belt
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I have a 2007 Avalon with 134000 miles. It makes a soft tap noise around the drive belt area. The drive belt looks good. I only hear this noise a slow idle. What do you think ?
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It is a Camry 2005 3L 1MZ-FE engine, 100K KM on the clock. In the cold mornings, I hear noise from the timing belt area for about 3-4 minutes then the noise reduced. But I can still hear some noise all the time. From what I read, it appears that the hydraulic tensioner (tensioner idler pulley, NTN 13540-20030) is bad. Plus, I can feel that the car does not take off as fast as another older Camry with timing belt replaced (everything else is good with this Camry 2005)
My questions are:
1. Is it possible that only the tensioner is bad, not the timing belt to make the noise or both of them need to be bad?
2. If it is the case that only the tensioner is bad, is it possible to replace the tensioner only without changing the belt and other part (I mean without removing the crank pulley and other parts)? I don’t want to replace everything if I don’t have to.
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So my 2010 with 20k miles on it just started to have some jingling/chirping noises around the drive belt area. It isn't all that loud but i can hear it. Could this be just a simple loose belt? Are our belts auto adjusting or manually adjusted? The noise increases with engine rpm in all gears and in neutral. Is def coming from the belt area.
One pulley does seem like it is not perfectly round and I can see some very slight run out from side to side. Nothing really obvious though - that might be normal?
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1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
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My wife just recently rear-ended a truck with a nice big hitch in her 2006 elantra. The aftermath was a hissing noise and no functioning a/c. I took apart a very bent front bumper, and discovered that the condenser was punctured and had spewed oil all over the place. I have a question regarding how I will recharge the system after I install a new condenser.
1. Can I just simply add new refrigerant after I install the condenser?
2. Do I need to be concerned about replacing the refrigerant oil? If so, how do I do this? Do I need to drain the existing oil? If so, how?
I have never recharged an a/c system after "cracking" open the sealed system, and I didn't even realize that an a/c system had oil in it until i saw it spewing out of the condenser.
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
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I own a 2002 Elantra with 75000 miles.
This just happened recently this winter. After a cold startup I hear a constant hissing noise (for lack of better word) coming from under the hood for about 5 minutes .
This is NOT the kind of sharp noise that you would hear from a loose power steering belt but it is definitely coming from that area (towards the passenger side close to power steering belt/alternator), though I could not pinpoint the exact location.
Everything seems to be working fine and after about 5 minutes it goes away. I am not missing any fluids and don't experience any other symptoms.
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A rubbing sound that began with lower temps (winter here). It occurs when going over bumps - even small. Does not occur at highway speeds. Gets quite loud. Does not have to do with steering or heat as far as I can determine. Some times does not occur at all. Don't know if any relation, but recently the dome light is coming on when coming to a complete stop.
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I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
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Actually above + an interesting mystery.. Late last spring I began hearing a noise of constant pitch (sounding like someone sanding wood) when the engine was cold---Louder when it was colder/cooler. As the engine warmed up the noise went away. Throughout the summer,No Noise. n. Late summer broken water pump replaced along with hoses/belts. No noise until, temps in AM in the 40's.
Now that same damn noise is back.Only LOUDER! Same pattern>>as engine warms noise softens and goes away. My ear suggests noise is coming from the tensioner pulley (But, I've been fooled before)As to the question above, Do I tighten the belt on 'This vehicle' using the tensioner pulley or do I have to use the "Pry the Alternator forward" method.? One last thing, while the noise is occurring it does get louder with acceleration but is soon blocked out by normal engine noise.
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