I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
View 2 RepliesThe check gauges light on my 1988 Cheyenne 4x4 is coming on and the oil pressure gauge is erratic back and forth from low to high pressure.
The vehicle is a 4.3L manual. Any likely cause or where to start with troubleshooting?
Ok so the fuel gauge says empty and the low fuel light stays on even though the tank is full. I'm assuming its either the gauges or the sending unit. If it is the sending unit where is it located on this car?
View 4 RepliesI have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
My 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
I just noticed the oil pressure gauge on this Pontiac TS GT stays in the red zone at idle and climbs a little out of it at 2000 rpm and higher (never over the first unit). There's no other warning light or error in the dashboard - just the scary oil pressure gauge.
We brought this car home for repairs after a 600 km trip (370 miles) without any issues in mountain roads or hot weather. Engine temperature was well below the first quarter mark, acceleration was great and there was no strange sounds whatsoever...
When first started cold engine has no lifter or tapping noise. What would be the most obvious sign of oil starvation/low pressure on this engine?
Is there any way to confirm it beside the dash gauge? With this 3.8 engine what would be the most probable cause for this:
1. defective oil pressure sensor
2. failed oil pump
3. worn crankshaft bearings
4. worn camshaft bearings or other cause
I have a 95 Chevy astrology van that I've owned for about a year. On occasion (about once a month) when I start it, the battery gauge stays in the red and all the lights are dim. After driving a bit I can stop the van and restart it, and the battery gauge normally shoots up to normal, and lights are all bright again. Don't have any problems outside of that, until now. For the last 4 day, my battery gauge has refused to pop out of the red, and lights are always dim. I can drive for a couple hundred miles and nothing changes. Last night, as I left work, it ran like it has been with low battery and then just died. There is no clicking, no "whirring" sound the starter normally makes, the battery just died. I'm on a very small budget and can't afford a shop, or both battery and alternator. What are your thoughts on this problem and where should I invest my money? As a side note, battery cables and posts are cleaned off, and are bolted securely. Nothing loose and no corrosion.
View 17 RepliesI just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
View 4 RepliesIf sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
View 5 RepliesMy ABS light is on most of the time. When I first start the engine it will be on, but when I put the truck in gear, either forward or reverse, it will shut of after moving only 5 or 10 feet. It will stay off for 2 or 3 blocks before it will come back on and stay on until you shut it off and start the process over again. I have replaced the left front ABS sensor and the right front hub an bearing assembly, which has a new ABS sensor in it already. A scanner still says the both front ABS sensors are at fault. I have unhooked the sensors and the ABS motor and unhooked the battery and nothing has changed. All connections look very clean and the pins look straight.
View 2 RepliesMy Dad drives a 2005 Chevy C1500, and he complains that the SRS light continually stays on. He wants to know how to turn it off without taking it to the dealership.
View 3 RepliesHaving this problem with the tire sensor light? It's been back to the dealer three times now, and always comes right back on.
View 40 RepliesThe tire pressure monitoring system warning light has stayed on even after I've filled the tires with the proper amount of air. Does this warning light have to be reset somehow?
View 3 RepliesThe "Check Engine Light" is on. When I brought it in for the annual inspection (NY), the diagnosis was "lean fuel mixture". The fuel filter was replaced (the car has over 110,000 miles on it), and some adjustments were made in the computer, or the sensors (I don't remember which). It was found that one adjustment was effective at low speeds, and the other one was necessary for 2000 RPM. A valve cover gasket was replaced because of an oil leak, but I don't see how this could have contributed to the problem. I drove it for about 10 miles and the light went on again. What the cause might be?
View 5 RepliesOur tire pressure monitor light came on recently. I checked the tire pressures, topped off all four and reset the TPMS button, but no luck. The light blinks, but then stays on. I'm thinking I've got one of two problems. Either the spare has low pressure or the batteries are used up in the sensors. The car is an early 2009. Seven full years seems kind of early for the batteries to be finished in the TPMS units.
View 3 Replies2008 Prius touring, tire pressure warning light stays on after blinking for 1 minute. This started after changing the wheels for summer (rims and tires). Tried the reset button, no change.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 B5 . It has minor damage front and rear (cosmetic only). Also, the check engine light stays on due to a vacuum leak somewhere between the MAF and the intake manifold. It would need a full paint job at some point after the body work was completed.
View 3 RepliesI have a check engine and air bag light that stays on. I was told if I dis-connect the battery, it will clear the codes. I need an inspection and I'm short of time.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5 6, FWD, 54k miles, that has been having the check engine light go on and off. Recently with in the pass month and a half the dealership has perform the recall adjustment, changed the manifold intake assy, changed the ECM with all visits rendered a P200A code. After changing the manifold assy, check engine light was off and fuel gage was at a 1/4 tank. Stop by a gas station and filled up and the light comes on. Remove gas cap after turning off engine and secured gas cap as directed on the cap of one click and light stays on. Turning into the dealership for the 4th time.
View 4 RepliesThe check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
View 7 RepliesI have a Low Oil Pressure warning light on. When it first came on, I stopped and check the oil level. It was low. I had to replace the oil 2 or 3 months ago, but then I had na accident (rollover) and just this past week i received the car and forgot to replace the oil. So that's what i did. Replaced the oil and filter.
The lights still comes on after driving about 3 or 4 miles. It starts by coming On and OFF a few times. Sometimes just blinking, than it stays ON until I shut of the engine. What it could be?
After the referred rollover, the engine shut off, but I turned it on less than 30 seconds after this (I know I shouldn't have done that) and drove for about a mile. Do you know if that would damage the engine or oil pump in 132,000 miles RX330?
I checked and found this error code P0346 (Camshaft position sensor). Would it be related?