Chevrolet - S-10 :: 2000 2.2 Liter Engine Running Poorly At All RPMs For Short Duration
Nov 1, 2013
I have about 160K on this truck, head gasket was repaired about 50k ago by former owner, has run pretty well and trouble free since I purchased it four years ago. Recently replaced plugs, coil packs, wires resulting in improved running/mileage. However, I've been getting a secondary air injection system error code for six months or so, (both before and after 'tune up'), performed snorkel modification to prevent uptake of road splashed water, checked fuses next to battery (good). Up to now I just ignored this sole error code since engine was running well. TPS checks 'good.'
Recently the engine would occasionally run poorly for short duration (@ all RPMs & regardless of throttle) and up to now simply parking overnight or just stopping briefly at a store would seem to reset the poor operation. Unfortunately within the last week it now runs like crap all the time: over revs for upshift, poor power, almost feels as if a cylinder is missing entirely, or timing has gone horribly 'off.' No other error codes, no obvious vacuum leaks. Ran through two bottles of Techron, no change. Does the 'toggling' of the engine running poorly/well offer any clues? Sticky injector?
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2001 Audi A4 1.8T... Driving down the highway the other day, a lovely place to be stricken w/car problems, the accelerator seemed to just up and quit on me. I went from a solid 70mph to 30, then w/in five seconds it came back to life, thrusting us forward back to speed, then within another five seconds, it cut out and I just made it onto the shoulder. Had it towed home. . . it will crank, but won't start, and now am wondering if it's worth the fix. Dealer just replaced a recalled part and gave me a supermarket list of to-fixes, none of which seem like they directly relate, especially w/out a check engine on or specific error codes. Have replaced the MAF sensor, Vacuum Check Valve, Gas tank/pump, Battery and Alternator w/in the past several years.
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My parents have a 08 trailblazer and the brakes stick. basically sometimes you stop and wait at a light or a stop sign, let off the brake and you can feel them stick for about a second and then release. they took it to the dealer, they said they felt it also but dont know what it is. we know its related to the brakes cause they take it there and they say they cleaned up the brakes and then it wont do it for a week or two then it will start doing it again. its still under warr. What it might be?
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Maybe it's because I've been away for two weeks and out of the RC, but when I drove for the first time in a while the car seems like it's noticeably bouncy on relatively smooth roads.
Again it could be my break from driving it. I mostly drive on Sport+ mode.
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I bought this Escape used in Dec '10 with 29,000 miles. It is now at 36,500 (Sept '11). I have had it in for service 3 times in 3 months.
The passenger airbag seems faulty- if the seat is empty, the light will flip off (meaning airbag is on). If I sit in it, the light will go on and off intermittently. I'm 135 lbs- and the serviceman saw it happen as we drove around- yet when the car was given back to me after a week and a half, they stated they could not duplicate the problem and that no issues were found.
Now, I'm having starting issues. Once over Labor day weekend- I had driven my car, parked it, and went to get in it 5 minutes later- no start. No cranking, no clicking. All lights/radion come on. After sitting for about 20 minutes and attempting to start every couple minutes, it roared to life and was fine. Took in for service, and again- no codes, could not duplicate, so they sent it home.
Car sat for a week (I'm a student- it doesn't get much action except on weekends). Then yesterday, I drove it about 15 minutes, parked, came back 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start again. Again, after about 20 minutes of sitting and attempting to start, it started.
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I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
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My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
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the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
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Have a 2007 and everything was running fine all day today. Stopped at home for a few hours and went back out to run a few more errands and my truck started running poorly, dashboard lights were dimming, and the ESC OFF & ABS dummy lights came on as well as the red battery light. Managed to turn around and make it back home. Sounds like my battery needs replacing? Hopefully its just the battery and not the alternator.
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I have an automatic 2000 Volvo S70 with 202,000 miles. Over the past couple years, I've had an intermittent start problem that seems to only occur after a medium duration shutdown (15min-3hours) following a long duration of operation (about 2 hours or more, usually highway). When the problem occurs, all the lights on the dashboard light-up like everything is normal, but when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens - silence, the car makes no attempt to start. Usually, I'll wait anywhere from 3 minutes to an hour or more and it'll start with no problem, like there was never a problem in the first place.
It seems to happen more frequently when it's hot outside, but it's hard to say for sure. And it seems to be random, within the parameters previously described; example: it happened twice on my recent drive to vacation, but not at all on the return trip home. Both days were hot, and all stops followed a similar pattern of operation/shutdown. And it never happens after a short stop following long operation; I've never been stuck in front of a gas pump. And I can run errands all day long, stop a dozen times in the blazing heat, and she'll start every time without a problem. It never happens first thing in the morning, and it never happens after I've been at work all day (even if the car has been parked in the sun all day).
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1990 Ford Aerostar. When I start runs really rough and has excessive fuel consumption and the exhaust smells like gas and has a misfire my friend says its the coil pack going bad im not sure. I love my ford aerostar dont wanna get rid of it.
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My Impala hesitates at 2,000 RPMs At every speed level. My mechanic and the Chevy dealer can't figure this out.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
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I have 2000 chevy impala with a 3800 series 2 engine with 170,000 miles on it. I have major oil leak which starts leaking when the car is running, i cannot see from the top and when i am underneath the car , I cannot see far enough up in the there to see where it is leaking, It is not coming from the seneding unit or the oil pan,,when the car is running it just pours out oil.
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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I have a hyundai accent 2005 sedan (automatic transmission). The vehicle is a NON-US model. My gas consumption is approximately 7.3km per litre which is very high.
The spark plugs have been replaced , tires are at 30psi , and air filter is new. The spark plug cables are also new. The obdII device does not detect any issues and the engine check light is also off.
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My 2000 impala starts when cold, runs for 10 min and dies, i found its losing spark when warm, i changed the coil packs, control module and cam sensor and have had no changes, it dies, and doesn't start, only turns over, i leave it for 30 min er so and it starts , runs for 10 and dies....
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My 2000 Chevy Astro van started having problems whenever I accelerate, hesitating losing speed, and all I can possible tie it to is a new gas station where I filled up which said "May contain ethanol". I think the "service engine light" flashed on for a second but does not stay on.
Could bad gas or the ethanol be the problem? Would getting the problem codes read at a parts place work?
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I have a 2004 VW Touareg with 116K miles. Yesterday the check engine light came on and she is running very rough at low RPMs. The manual tells me that there is either a problem with the exahust manifold or an O2 sensor is bad. It feels as if she is struggling for air. When you start the vehicle the check engine light flashes then stays on in the cluster. What can I expect when I take it in to the dealership? Is there anything I can check before I take it in?
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My v8 is running hot!! On a short trip I just had this happen to me. Oil temp is at 110 Celsius and the water temp was almost pinned at 120 Celsius. The warning light never came on but I didn't take any chances and limped home with the heater blasting,windows open at 80 kph. Thermostat,water pump??? My mileage just turned 100k so I guess replacing the timing belt might be good...
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I dont know if this is related but my ignition switch went a few weeks ago, I got the part in the mail this week and was planning on changing it today, but a few days ago my 99 Passat v6 started bucking, kinda like it did when i needed motor mounts...but my engine is really weak and rough. I opened the hood and saw that my air filter hose was disconnected right after the MAF (or at least i think its the MAF).... I don't know how long its been sucking up dirty air. but does that sound like they are related? a friend of mine said if i can see the butterfly valve in the air hose, open it up and spray a can of carb cleaner in it, put the filter back on, start the car and let it run, then do it again with another can and it should fix it. I cant see the butterfly air valve in the hose, since the hose goes down behind the engine. Should i just spray it in anyway? or does have to be press on the gas pedal...
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