Chevrolet - S-10 :: 1998 - Got PO453 And PO442 Codes?
Jul 2, 2015
so recently I purchased a 98 Chevy s10 with the check engine light on. Seemed like a good deal. Has a battery warning light constantly on and I have to turn and reset the ignition a few times each morning to get the engine to start but it ran relatively smoothly. I waited a day, then tried to reset the light by disconnecting the battery and cycling it. The light never cleared. Once my scanner came in the mail I ran it and came back with a PO453 (High pressure in EVAP) code.Looked it up, could be a variety of causes, and as I don't really have a place to tinker with it too much I started with the easy stuff. Checked gas cap, seems a bit weartherized and probably needs to be replaced. Got under the vehicle and had barely enough clearance to disconnect what I believe to be the FTP sensor .
Started the vehicle, stopped, then ran the code again, only this time it came up as a PO452 (EVAP pressure low). Reconnected the sensor, erased the codes and again the check engine light stayed on. Went to work today, code on. Got off and the check engine light was gone! Excitedly I ran the codes again when I parked at home and it still came up with PO452, but the Check Engine light is still off.
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I have a 98 sport 4.0 i bought awhile back and its been running rough.. When driving it seems to cut out.. I had it scanned and it has code PO453 which is pressure sensor.. I was told they replaced the fuel pump when i got it.. After driving and i get out i can smell gas on the drivers side.. I replaced the gas cap but no change.. I was just wondering about this code and what i should start with first..
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We have a 2000 Accent that is having some problems. Last year, I took it into our trusted mechanic, who told me that the engine was going downhill - one of the cylinders was dead (this was in response to us wanting to drive it to Texas for our daughter that was stationed there - we just wanted a tune-up). The car ran fine, and here we are a year later - and need a smog.
It does have a problem starting at times when we put fuel in it (at 1 particular gas station) and Hyundai told us it was an EVAP issue and it would cost us $622. (Hyundai NEVER mentioned anything regarding the engine issue). We never got it fixed because again, it only happens at that one station, so we try to avoid it - and the car runs great (it has 190k miles on it).
So now, we need to get it smogged. Same mechanic wouldn't do anything - I pulled codes off my reader and it only gave me the 2 441/442 codes. I cleared the CEL off the dash.
Now, my question is: Should I just take it back to Hyundai for them to do the smog and EVAP repair? Or should I try to have it smogged. I'm not willing to give up on it yet. I'm sure the mechanic thinks it is dying, but I've been told that the engine would run rough and vibrate if a cylinder was dead. Of course, reality may smack me upside the head, but it just runs fine except for the fuel issue, that I'm doubting him.
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I have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
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1997..FordF150 4.6L 4x4 Manual transmission ~~
To start ... truck seem to be having misfire issues one day...first thought was gas tank was low and running out of gas with no warning from low fuel light. Made it to station got gas no more trouble. Week or so later climbed in truck that morning went to start it and felt like it was running off 4 cylinders, shaking, misfire and engine light flickering constantly.. eventually died left it off took the Harley to work...
Later that evening after I got home put scanner on it got a code PO453 "Evaporation Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input".. Looked it up.. found the location to be on top fuel tank...first thought great gotta drop tank to replace sensor... after the scan reset sensor. Next mourning started truck ran great ..no engine light... took it for a spin no problems parked it. Next mourning going to work started it same problem...Shake Rattle and Roll...
Friend told me to unhook ground cable to reset computer... did it..left it for couple hours..hooked it back up..started fine..no engine light running great drove it 3 to 4 miles no problems. Took it to car wash cleaned it started again drove home parked it. Next mourning same thing shaky shaky...
Took to local shop to have it checked out (drove it there ran great with engine light on)... they seem to think sensor is OK.... Their thought P C M.. Supposedly took PCM off cleaned contacts and one of the mechanics drove truck home with no problems...next mourning same issue shaky shaky.... New PCM right direction ?
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I popped a code this morning PO442 emission control evap [small leak]. Would this be a vacuum hose leak? I did both heads about a month ago. Any way to narrow down the troubleshooting on this problem?
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2001 Ranger-4 Liter-169,000 Odometer Miles ... Over the past year I would get an occasional CEL indicating PO442 Leak Detected (small leak). I would simply erase it. Now it's occurring more frequently at approximately 300 odometer miles.
There must be lots a places for a small leak to develop. But, I am thinking that there might be one or two places that are somewhat common.
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98 passat 1.8t has the abs light on and the exclamation point. Scanned it using vad. Nothing showed up in the scan. Also turbo whistles under load. And trans slips. Nothing showing up on vad.
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My wife's(who is in school out of state) 1998 Civic EX 2 door coupe with 127.7k miles has been showing the Check Engine light for a week now - had her get it checked at a local Meineke and the codes are P0700 and P0715 - also the D4 light is constantly flashing while she drives. There is no discernible issues/change in the driving experience except she says the engine sounds louder and sometimes it accelerates slowly. I believe Honda has a TSB on this (01-012). I saw a member on a honda civic forum was able to get this resolved under an extended emission warranty [URL]..... - so I called Honda customer care but they said the TSB does not apply to my 1998 Civic.
Is there something I am missing in reference to coverage from Honda for this problem - I see that the gentleman who was successful in getting this done from the dealer under an extended emissions warranty had a 96 Civic and someone mentioned 96-98 model years in the discussion on this issue. We have a baby on the way so will be buying a bigger car before the end of March - intend to keep this car as a secondary for occasional use (if the cost to fix this issue is not in the thousands) - so I am trying to figure out what makes the most sense :
1. Should we bring the car to a local dealer ? this one dealer said they will charge to diagnose and if I get the work done there - the testing cost will go towards repairs.
2. Drive the car as is - and try to find a local mechanic when I'm there next month.
3. Get a transmission drain and fill - believe a trans flush is not usually.
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My 98 Corolla won't start, but I have checked battery, fuel pressure, spark, efi relay, and fuses, which are all good. Can't figure what to fix?
Have connected a pocket scanner but I get no codes.
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1998 Chevy C1500 4.3L V6 170,000 miles
My truck is stumbling and losing engine power sporadically. When this is happening I can usually drive it if I am real easy on the gas and slowly build up speed but if I mash it the engine will eventually just die completely. It has had this problem off and on for several years and now it's back with a vengeance. It always seemed to happen after a heavy rain but now I'm not sure.
Last week I had a mechanic look at the codes and he cleared them saying that once it happened again the code(s) that showed up would be a good indicator of the actual problem. The codes that were there were for a couple O2 sensors, catalytic converter and loss of vacuum I think. It happened again and his shop was closed so I got it read and cleared somewhere else and it was P0131 bank 1 sensor 1 and since I knew that one had come up before I went ahead and replaced it myself.
The next day the CEL came back on without any noticeable engine trouble. That was yesterday, this morning it rained and the problem is back and I went to get the code read and it was the P0420. There was also C0281 stop lamp circuit something or other that was new.
My gas mileage has stayed pretty good this whole time, always 15+mpg. Just wondering if my catalytic converter probably needs replaced, if I should replace other O2 sensors, or if this all might indicate something else in the engine.
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Yesterday, i changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, mass air flow sensor, air filter and replaced the in and out take coolant lines in the throttle body.
Before yesterday, i got random misfire codes that would clear and return, i have no a/c, i believe the thermostat needs replacing as the van runs hot after a while of running and quickly when idling and the upper radiator hose is hot. The van's idle is rough to the point that some one else turned up the idle so it would stop stalling so frequently, especially in reverse. it stalls very very rarely now.
then a few days a go i got a knock sensor code that clears itself and then returns.
A friend changed the distributor cap, and noticed some melting and corrosion, hence the spark plug and wire change. this friend also pulled the wiring harness for the front 3 injectors while it was running. the one on the far right created no audible engine change (also this spark plug was immaculate compared to the others), so he said it is bad (or is my friend a moron?)i had also noticed a coolant hose that would spray coolant when really hot.
So yesterday i tackled the above. In the process of doing this i had to rip the other coolant hose to remove throttle body, i replaced these with a self cut piece of 1/2 heater hose. after removing throttle body, i realized i needed a gasket. so got one of those.
a few notes:i used antisieze lube and dielectric lube on spark plugs, thread and ceramic respectively. the mass air flow sensor is used.i cleaned the throttle valve with brake cleaner (non chlorinated) because it was nasty! i did not remove the cables attached to throttle body, just moved it out of the way while working.i hand tightened everything.there were 2 skinny hoses i disconnected, one with a metal tip that went in to the large rubber air intake hose, and one that ran into the throttle body (this hose ripped like a 1/4 inch off it seemed long enough, so i did not replace). i disconnected the large air intake hose at 3 spots with pipe clamps.i disconnected 3 wiring harnesses 2 at throttle body and 1 at mass air flow sensor
Now, it seems the van is running smoother while getting gas, but rougher when idling. What did i miss? what would be causing a rougher idle? I am now at work, i will not be home till around 9 cst. So I cannot check anything.the van did throw another code, but i have not checked it yet.
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I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with 103,000 miles. I'm receiving the codes P0300B Misfire and P0440B Evap Emission.
I use Premium Unleaded gas (not at a cheap station) so I don't think it's the gas causing the misfire code P0300B. Also I've put on a new gas cap but I still get the Evap Emission code P0440B.
Working on a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with these 2 codes?
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I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
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1998 ranger 4.0L. I ran my scanner on my truck to day and my 2 bank 1 sensors seem to be bouncing between .150 and .700 but my bank 1 sensor 2 seems to be stuck at 680-720 and not bouncing, is this normal?
I did pull a code po135 heater circuit malfunction BANK 1 SENSOR 1 ...
Also I am not sure where my fuel trims should be...
My
ST1 10.0
LT1 25.0
ST2 12.0
LT2 25.0
closed loop.
When I first got the truck I pulled codes for lean bank 1 and 2 also a cylinder #4 misfire and the bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit. I reset the codes and the heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1 popped the mil light in 5 min. So I am starting with the o2 sensors. I've not found any vacuum leaks at this point.
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My 2002 Chevy Tracker recently has been running poorly after consuming a 1/4 tank of gas. The check engine light comes on the scan tool reports P0171 and P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean(it's a 2.5 liter V-6). If I remove and replace the gas cap it runs better but not perfect. Once I use another 1/4 tank the symptoms return. I have noticed the cap is hard to remove lately. This has been going on for two weeks It's been to 2 garages one of them told me my catalytic converters are plugged up and wanted 2500 to fix .
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So, starting about 2 months ago my car started starting kind of hard and the CEL came on. It would crank for a few seconds, start to turn over but sound like it was going to sputter out, but ultimately turn over. It seemed to be exacerbated the longer the car sat between times running. I let the car sit for about a week while I was waiting for parts to come in to change out my front brakes, and now it won't start.
I hooked up my newly acquired OBD II reader and got the following DTCs:P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1P0130 P - Same, P for PendingP0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Range/PerformanceP0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
Based on my limited understanding, I would think something having to do with the last two codes would be why the car isn't starting, but it seems like it could also easily be something else not directly indicated by those codes. So what I'm wondering is, do I need sensors replaced, or is there something else that needs to be replaced on the car. The car has ~130k on the odo.
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I've got a friend who had a leak repaired on his '98 Chevy S-10 pickup but didn't have the system recharged. I have a vacuum pump and gauges and told him I would pull a vacuum and recharge it for him, but he doesn't know the refrigerant capacity and I don't have manuals on this model. What is the capacity? I'm figuring 1.5-2 lbs but would like to know exactly what's recommended by GM before starting on it so I can tell him how much refrigerant to buy.
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I have a 2003 malibu with 170000 miles on it. My husband uses this car to commute to work (10 miles one way). We will be buying a newer car in a month or so but my husband really wants to keep this car as a third/back up car. I purchased an OBD 2 scanner and downloaded the torque app (I really enjoy working on cars and I wanted to have more info easily available to me). The codes that it is showing me are P0131 (o2 sensor) and P0405 (EGR?). How should I proceed? I know I need to replace the O2 (easy) but im not sure about the other code.The car has a rough idle, terrible gas mileage and seems to drive as though I have shifted it past Drive and into 1st (its an automatic).
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2001 Prizm/Corolla - CEL is off, no trouble codes, all other monitors are ready, but not the catalytic convertor. No repairs since a new battery mid December. The smog guy (California) says that he can let another monitor go but not the cat; it costs him too many points.
Is this a converter in the early stages of failure (150,000 miles; some oil consumption)? Or is there another possibility?
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I own a 1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado. About a year and a half ago my interior lights stopped turning off. I found that the only way to make the lights go out is to pull the interior light fuse. With the fuse pulled my lights will go out when the key is in the off position. With the key in any position besides off and the radio on my cab lights are on half bright. If I turn off the radio or pull the radio fuse the lights go out. My mechanic and I both investigated this and came up with the same answer: the Keyless Entry Module. After living with no cab lights for a year and a half (in northern New Hampshire) I broke down and paid the 180 bucks for the "Remote Function Actuation Module" (I had to take my dash apart and get the part number off the old module to figure out which one of three or four possible modules was used in my truck). Now that I have replaced the module I still have the same problem. If it's not the module then what is causing my lights to stay on all the time with the fuse in or come on half bright with the fuse pulled?
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