My dad has a 1998 S10, 4.3 2wd. He said it gave all clues to a starter going out. We replaced the starter and solenoid, charged the battery and got clicking. The lights turn, radio, etc. When we turn it over, we get clicking and that's it. Not sure where to go from here?
View 3 RepliesWhat is it that is making a fast clicking sound in the back under the car every time i turn my key to on?? It last for maybe 5 minutes or so then goes off...Not a clue !!
View 4 RepliesI have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
View 17 RepliesA year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
was driving my 98 s10 2.2 auto shut it off wouldnt start found ign fuse blown replaced it blem again found the harness on manifold burnt i replaced all bad wires now wheni put fuse back in it tries to start even with key out turn key on replace fuse will start but keeps trying to start what did i do wrong or what to do
View 18 RepliesEngine cranks but will not start, it kicks back after cranking over for a couple of times i have replaced the crank sensor it has done this once before it kicked back hard enough to knock a tooth off of the flywheel after replacing flywheel and starter it started fine for three months then it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt. i replaced bolt had starter checked and replaced again?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127000 miles on it. When I go and start up car the car starts right up. If I turn car off it won't start back up so i give it a little gas it starts right back up. There is no check engine light...
View 7 RepliesI have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
The ABS light on my Chevy Prizm 98 comes on when I start the car and then turns off in a few seconds. The last few days the light does not go off the entire time the car is running. The light does not flash it just stays on. It's never done this before. Does this mean I have an issue with my brakes? I replaced the front brakes last year but I'm fearing/dreading rear brake replacement. I have no signs that they need to be replaced but am wondering if the ABS light is telling me I'm reaching the rear brake replacement day.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
View 12 RepliesI have a 98 chevy silverado c1500 extended cab has 5.7 350,and i think a 4L60E transmission. Driving around town my truck shifts fine, but when i get on the highway for a little while it will start jumping hard from 1st to 2nd, but if i kill the truck and start it back up it will usually shift fine.
View 1 RepliesI just started hearing sort of a howling noise from front end of my 98 cavalier. I also feel a bit of a grinding sensation through my wheel when I start slowing down. I lifted the front tires one by one, checked the play, there's a little on left side and couldn't really feel anything on the right side. I then put the vehicle in neutral and then spun the tires by hand. The right tire spun with ease and the left side was a bit harder to spin. Just wondering if it is the bearings wearing out or if it could be cv joint problems. I also did check the boots on the cv joints for cracks in them but couldn't find anything wrong.
View 3 RepliesI have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
View 6 RepliesMy 98 Yukon won't turnover. There is power to everything, but when I turn the key nothing happens. What's wrong?
View 3 RepliesWhat would cause my truck to have a long turnover start, a really rough idle, and a loss of power after idling at a stop light for about a minute?
This problem gets worse as the truck warms up. It feels as if I'm not getting power from all 6 cylinders but this goes away after about 20 feet of acceleration. The truck has never not started. It just has to turn over for about 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. I changed the spark plugs and wires thinking it was that and then i tried the fuel filter and it wasn't that either.
when I turn key to start car there is a loud clicking noise somewhere behind the glove box, it quits after a while, what is the problem?
View 1 RepliesWhen I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
View 1 RepliesWe have replaced the pcm : Still no motor turn over -no start !
New Battery and cables !
All-- fuses and relays-- were checked and are ok !
No ignition to the starter - motor will not turn over !
Jumper wire from control center starter relay -then motor turns over !
We are at a Loss here - Could it be the ignition switch? Neutral safety switch ?
I have a 1998 Ford Contour se 2.0. The alternator went out in the beginning of January. Had it replaced, got it back it ran for a couple of days and it just died on me and wouldn't start. So back to the shop it went, fuel filter was clogged so they changed it, and I got it back last Friday. It ran until Saturday morning and as I was driving down the road it just died!! Just like that...died. Got it to run for a few seconds...it would die.
Finally got it back home and now it won't start. It will turn over, but won't start. If it does start it won't stay running longer than 2 or 3 seconds. I've had the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and spark plugs checked. Everything is fine. Oh and yes, it has 3/4 of a tank of gas in it. What is wrong with this thing?? It also has around 151,000 miles on it.
I have a 98 chevy astro thats been acting up alot these days! just a few eeks ago while checking tranny fluid it kinda smelt burnt. but topped it up anyway. mind you alot else is going on too. in the last year the horn has stopped working, the wipers work when they want to. the stereo stopped working. there was this wierd clicking noise that drained my battery, it was coming from this little black square looking thing under the dash on the drivers side, I removed it and it never happened agian. still haven't replaced it yet seeming as it ran fine without it. it wouldn't start when it was raining so considering the other electrical problems I was having I had a wire kit done on it and it didn't work. it turned out to be a cracked coil, which was replaced. just this last week the heater stopped working and now it started doing this this morning.
View 4 RepliesThis past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.