Chevrolet - S-10 :: 1995 - Changing Clutch Safety Switch?
Sep 22, 2012
I need to replace the safety switch on my 1995 S10 w/ a 5 speed manual tranny. It doesn't seem to want to come out. Looking at the new one, I would guess that it MAYBE fits in sort of like the holes on a wall hanger. You know, sort of a pear shaped hole that a screw or something fits into and slides down to make it stay. Am I right? And if so, how hard is it to get out/replace? I don't really want to destroy the old one, but that is looking more and more like how it's going to happen.
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I have a 1999 ford ranger and I believe my Clutch safety starting switch is going out. Some times I push my clutch in and truck starts fine other times it will not turn over so I stomp clutch and then it starts. My question is, is there any way to bypass this switch?
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I have an 88 ranger 2.9 manual trans. The clutch safety switch wires melted (red with light blue) 2 come off the ignition, I traced the one to the clutch switch and replaced. My problem is my book says the other goes to " electronic shift control module", I can't find this module and I can't seem to chase wire as it gets lost in wire loom.
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2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
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Looking on replacing my Neutral Safety Switch. Shifting the Transmission began to get very hard to do, like the linkage was binding up. Pulled center console, latching mechanism unlocks when i apply the brake, was able to shift with much difficulty into reverse and now i can only get it to shift between reverse and neutral. It is all cable from shifter to transmission and the cable seems fine, no binding there that I can see. Got the nut off the trans linkage but can't get the shift arm to come off the rod and removed the 2 bolts on the safety switch but nothing wants to come apart. Just rusted on? Don't want to use the BFH and break anything.
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I can't seem to find the location of the neutral safety switch on my 2005 accent 5 speed manual. I removed the air filter box and looked all around the top, bottom, and sides of the tranny. I have the new part so I do know what it looks like.
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I have recurring P0705 trouble codes. Lexus dealer checked the N/S switch itself and said it's good. I checked all the wiring, found an open, shouted Eureka! Ran a new wire, now all wires test good, but still getting the code. SO - I think I may need to adjust the position of the switch, since the trouble code is for a range malfunction. BUT - I can't find a procedure anywhere.
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What could be the cause of this? Have replaced the park/neutral safety switch and the Toyota Mechanic found loose wires on the Master Plug-In and repaired the Ignitor Connector. The computer generates no code to identify a problem. Problem still not fixed. I eventually get it to start but do not know why. Fuel pump replaced a couple of years ago.
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Daughters explorer sport trac, needed a neutral safety switch and a fuse ( no reverse lights),, I have replaced both but now the shifter doesn't line up right.
P is now reverse, and cant get all the way over to 1 with out holding it...
the two marks in the switch line up for neutral.... and switch is keyed to shaft...
how do i now re align this so shift indicator and transmission are on the same page again??
I am guessing move tranny arm all the way to the rear of the truck position and put shifter in P....then put cable back on arm.... but doesn't seem to work ....
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I have a '05 santa fe, auto, 2.7L, 4WD...sometimes I have to jiggle the shifter to get the engine to crank...would this be the neutral safety switch? or is there something in the shifter housing that could be causing this?
Maybe a minor adjustment... Just a slight movement of the shifter and it fires right up... If it is the neutral safety switch..where is it located? on the trans?
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How do I remove the neutral safety switch? I bought a replacement and am having trouble removing it.
After shifting into neutral, I disconnected the connector, then unbolted the two screws. Now I can't get the little white ring that connects the lever coming from the transmission to the actual switch. I have tried prying it off with a screwdriver, spraying a little PB Blaster to lubricate it a little. Nothing will get it off it seems.
I'm leaving to go back up to school tomorrow afternoon, and I need to have this fixed before I leave.
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1989 F250, C6
Random starting problems. Starter relay did not fix it.
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I have the 4r100 transmission how do I bypass the safety switch? Also what are your thoughts on starting the engine with the transmission out? I know to bolt the spacer plate to the engine.
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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Have 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
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. I'm going to FINALLY change the tranny fluid in my 95 Ranger Splash this weekend and need all the feedback I can get! It's a manual trans with miles shy of the 250,000 mark...still on the original stuff!! I'm only the 2nd owner but I bought the truck with just 45,000 miles on her so I'm willing to bet the farm that it's never been changed. It's getting harder to shift from 1st to 2nd and I'm getting a little bit of grinding from 3rd to 4th if I shift too fast. Reading all the threads everywhere online, so many different people have so many different theories from stock Mercon V to MOTOR OIL??? The motor oil thing floored me but I understand the viscosity difference between hydraulic fluid and lubricating oil. figure out what the best thing to replace the original with to prolong the life of this long running wonder vehicle!
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So recently I took in the sonata to get the inhibitor switch replaced at the dealership (faulty switch causes loss of the gear indication and the car doesn't move when in gear). After getting the car back, it now buzzes when I put it into reverse or drive. It never did this before. Is this normal after getting the inhibitor switch changed and if it will go back to normal after a while.
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I have a 2013 golf r and I usually shift gear at 3 rpm when driving normal but for some reason it doesn't feel right, I can hear the clutch making a weird noise whenever changing gear at a low rpm, it feels so much smoother when shifting above 4 rpm but I dont always wanna punch it so hard especially when there's always traffic from where I live. Any advice on a smoother shift at a low rpm.
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I have a 2000 Accent that I changed the clutch and CV Axles on and now the transmission seams to be stuck. When i got done replacing the axles and installing the brakes I spun the wheels while installing the nut to aline the cotter pin. Once I got the car down, serviced the gear oil, bled the clutch master. Went to drive the car and it wouldn't move .
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if a 2002 4x2 ford ranger was towed into a shop because the clutch failed is there anyway the #2 syncro or anyother internal part of the transmission could be damaged while the service department repalced the clutch?
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What would make a clutch switch keep going out? I've replaced it 3 times in the past year and at this point I'm pretty sure it's not bad switches. I currently have a UM NA tune with launch control which obviously doesn't work when the switch goes bad.
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