Chevrolet - S-10 :: 1992 Dies While Driving, Won't Start Up Again
Nov 21, 2013
Car basics: 1992 Chevrolet S104 cylinder2.5 L
Have in the last 4 months replaced :
(1)fuel filter
(2)fuel pump and spark plugs
(3)EGR Valve
(4) Vacuum lines (possible vacuum leak)
Problem: Car will turn off while driving, sometimes after a service engine light comes on. Usually at 40-65 mph, car will shut off with electricity still working. When I attempt to start the car afterward it will turn over, but will not catch. Have had to be towed twice, other times, we waiting we it out, came back later and it started up just fine.
Attempts to solve: Various points I've brought it into a AAA shop, and they were unable to figure it out without the check engine light on (pre-1996). I finally did get the codes read, and they were for the EGR Valve, and the MAP sensor. EGR replaced, test on MAP sensor showed no problems afterwards. codes were cleared.
Yesterday: Last night the car turned off randomly on me again, and had to get towed home, today it took a few tries, but then the car started up just fine. Took it to the shop, they reattached a loose wire from the spark plugs, and are asking me to replace the (1)wiring, (2) coils, and (3) rotor head but without the check engine light on this morning, they are not 100% sure where the problem exists. The car sometimes runs fine, but since I am going to be working pretty far from home, I need reliable transportation. Everything else is in great shape on my little pickup, but this has been racking my head for a bit.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
1992 Escort GT 1.8 liter ... It's been a problem for a while, where I'll just be driving (or at a stoplight) and the engine dies. It doesn't sputter or give any signs (that I know of) before it goes. Usually if I let it sit for a while, generally under an hour, it'll start right up again and run for a few days and then happen again. The engine light will sometimes come on, but only after I get it started up again, and it never stays on for long. The other day, it died on my way to work and didn't start up again for a few days, but the engine light was on, and gave a code 23. I think this means I should get the throttle sensor fixed.
View 1 Replies
I have just inherited my recently deceased father's 1992 Ranger with the 2.3 liter engine. He was a Ford Mechanic but got to ill to worry about fixing the Ranger. So, let me begin, the engine dies randomly, (at idle or in gear driving doesn't matter what gear or speed), turning key to off and then to on will allow vehicle to restart every time. No "Check Engine" light has ever lit, I do have an "Antilock" light that comes and goes. The engine codes I keep getting are: 10, 218 and 222.
Code 10 is a computer check code,
Code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side, and
Code 222 is "Distributorless Ignition System - Loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) signal.
These codes were from my Innova reader. I have read where other similar problems were fixed with a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced mine, no change. Another symptom I just noticed is my temp gauge stays near the cool end when it should be higher.
View 14 Replies
My 1992 chevy s-10 is running really bad it idles high ( like around 2000 rpm to 1000 rpm) it starts high then slows down. Then when i drive it, it kinda stumbles. Iguess u can say it makes all kinds of noises and beats and bangs and if I am going up a hill some times it shuts off. It has a manual trany and a stock 4.3 motor. I need the truck to get back and forth to work....
View 3 Replies
My truck is having a problem lately where it will suddenly die while driving. It feels like it loses either spark or fuel and happens about 20-30 minutes after I drive it. Once it dies you can turn the key off and restart it and it will fire up and run again, for how long I'm not sure because I'm almost home about that time. It has a fairly new fuel pump, 2 years old, a fuel filter the same age, new cap and rotor, new air filter, probably could use some new plugs. I replaced the TPS with an older one that I had laying around and had no change in performance. I get a 34 and 43 code (MAP and knock sensor) when I do a diagnostic on it.My question is do you think a MAP sensor or knock sensor would cause this kind of failure before I go out and buy them? I'm leaning towards the MAP sensor but not sure that it would have this kind of an effect on the engine.
View 4 Replies
My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
View 2 Replies
So I have a very confusing problem. In my 92 Chevy Astro the battery occasionally stops charging runs down and dies while I am driving and will not restart via jump but must be fully charged. This first happened a couple months and several thousand miles ago but has occurred 3 times in the last two weeks. Both the battery and the alternator have checked out good, and the alternator belt is tight as a drum. What could this possibly be?
View 6 Replies
My brother (deceased ) had a girlfriend (very manipulative person ) who has left a 99 Metro 3 cyl sitting since 2012 ,now it wont run ,it will fire if you pour gas into the throttle body How hard is it to get to the fuel pump on that thing ?
View 17 Replies
Truck has 190,000 miles. First, every now and then the truck won't start. Turn the ignition key to the start position and nothing happens - like the battery is dead. Turn the key back to the off position, wait maybe 10 - 15 sec. Try and start again - starts right up. This maybe happens about half the time I start the truck. Always seems to start first start attempt of the day. Only later does it start to behave this way.
I took it into a repair shop and they claimed it was the starter relay. After the repair (about two weeks) it seemed fixed - started all the time. Then a couple of days ago it began to do the same thing again. Only now, maybe 10 - 20% of the time doesn't want to crank (vice 50% or more before the repair). Doesn't seem to be the battery because when it cranks it cranks very strong and starts right up.
Now additionally, today, the truck just dies while driving. Doesn't stall or run rough just before dying - just dies - like turning the ignition switch to off. Interestingly, it starts right back up after this - no extended cranking, etc., just starts right up. I have tried "jiggling" the start switch to see if maybe it is failing, but it has no effect. That is, when the truck won't crank, "jiggling" the switch won't make it crank, and "jiggling" the switch while the truck is running doesn't cause it to die. Sometimes, the waiting 10 -15 secs or so between crank attempts doesn't work - that is, it doesn't crank, but if I open up the hood and take the starter relay out of its socket and put it back in, it cranks.
View 13 Replies
I own a 2001 Daewoo Lanos S which has about 96k miles.
Today, I was driving my car home and it just died with no warning or anything. I drove it earlier to work and back and even an extra stop and didn't even could tell that there was something wrong. The power didn't go out though like from the battery. I then tried to start it back up and it won't start now. Like the engine can't get that kick to start up. I was told the oil valve gasket(?) was leaking, but I checked it everytime before I drove it and it did have oil in the car. Also, I have had the problem of smelling gas inside the car when I fill it up (fuel filter??) I know that the Lanos did have a recall over the crankshaft sensor, so could that be it? I just don't have a lot of money to spend on random parts that won't fix it nor (unless I absolutely have to) go to a mechanic since I live with one, just need the part(s).
Was so excited too because I just found a replacement for my passenger window regulator.
View 15 Replies
Well i was driving the other night home and all of the sudden my 02 2.7 Awd Santa Fe dies and wont start back up. Of all places it dies on a hill around a big turn in front of a grave yard. I mean it didn't make and funny sounds or anything just died. What the problem could be. I just replaced the cam sensor last week, I have read that it could be the crankshaft sensor or even timing belt. It does have higher miles 189k.
View 3 Replies
When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 3 Replies
We have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
View 1 Replies
I was driving my sport trac when it suddenly died on me. We are leaning toward the fuel pump. But is there any other causes for fuel to not get to the engine? We changed the fuel filter out already...
View 4 Replies
I purchased a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo at a steal . . . I've already replaced the head gasket sealant. My biggest current concern is the fuel pressure. The car either starts up beautifully or sputters and gurgles for a good 5 seconds before finally idling normally (either occur during cold or warm starts).
The sputtering at start-up has become more commonplace as of late. If I drive away without providing a good three-to-five minute warm-up, the car will drive as normal while applying gas pressure to the peddle, then once gas pressure is no longer applied, the car dies silently; The battery stays on, but all power steering and engine power disappear and the car coast into nothingness. If I allow the Jeep to warm up significantly, it will drive as normal for hours, except for it's struggles to compensate long upward hills.
The fuel regulator has a slight leak. Worse at start-up, lessens up over time. The seal may be improperly seated, but is in physical working condition as I can tell. Spark plugs were replaced. Battery was replaced. Injectors have been tightened. There is a slight oil leak (it seems to move around a bit), but is far better since the Head Gasket was replaced. Could this be a bad fuel regulator or something else that I have missed?
View 1 Replies
I am repairing a 1992 Celica GT w/2.2 litre I4. Just replaced the TPS. Now, it will only idle. Any caressing of the accelerator, and the engine dies. Will idle smooth as glass for abt 5-10 minutes, then begin idling rough, and then die. Will not allow me to restart immediately after it dies. Must wait 10-15 minutes before restarting. When the vehicle is placed in gear, it will continue to run, but the moment the accel. is pressed, the engine dies.
I think part of it may be vacuum-related.
View 4 Replies
At idle (like at a stop sign or sitting in the drive way) my '92 Toyota revs up and dies down (kind of a "brrrrvvvvvv-buh... brrrrvvvvvvvv-buh") We have been fixing it up and got ahold of another Toyota that has a decent motor but the body, frame, and everything else is shot. We are pulling a starter out of it and was wondering if the part that causes the gallop could be replaced too.
View 4 Replies
I have a quick torque converter question. I have a '92 F-250, 351W, E4OD. When I come to a stop the engine dies. I know it is the torque converter clutch staying engaged. I do have a TCC code stored. I'm wondering if there is a way to disconnect the TCC so it never goes into lock-up, since it only seems to happen after I've reached higher speeds and it goes into lock-up. I thought maybe a wire from the PCM to disconnect? I have All-data access, but it doesn't have wiring diagrams for the trans. Which wire, color and pin number, and if this will work? I know it's not the proper repair, but I have $17 into this truck, it's pretty rotted, and I'm just looking to get by until spring. I don't drive much, but occasionally I need to get somewhere.
View 14 Replies
My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
View 13 Replies
I've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
View 4 Replies
