Chevrolet - S-10 :: 1988 - Start Up And Then Die
Aug 27, 2012
88 s10 2wd 2.5 litre will not run with the f terminal of the alternator connected. Had alternator tested showed good but needle jumped around some, so went ahead and bought a reman. Put it on same issue. No codes. Unplug the f terminal vehicle will run. This is circuit 39goes to ign/gauge fuse 20A, which ties into the instrument cluster so i unplug the cluster no change.same fuse and circuit 39 go to ses lamp which should have been eliminated as a possible cause by unplugging the ipc. Other places circuit 39 goes is ac cutout relay, shift lamp, vss buffer.
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Coming out the piece right behind the oil reservoir out a little hole whats this leak coming from...
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Our 1988 full size Chevy van (Beauville) with TBI & 357 cubic inch motor has 72,000 original miles - used mostly for 2-6 mile trips - has always been garaged; body in great shape; runs well but lately have had to add radiator fluid: 1 qt. every 100 miles - no leak, but clear fluid coming out of tailpipe which doesn't look or taste like antifreeze - oil doesn't foam or show signs of water.
What it might be, cost of fixing and what might happen if I just keep adding fluid and don't do anything about it.
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i have a 1988 2.4L 185,000+ miles chevy s10 pu. the check gauges light has been coming on for some time. the gauge bounces up and down a lot. but settles to 20psi at driving speeds. there is no tapping or noises from the engine and has good power and oil. what should i have check
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I recently bought this cavalier about a week ago its and 88 automatic trans with 1.8 4 cylinder I thing not that it matters much. I noticed the exhaust had a smaller pipe from the manifold and the rest was strung with a bit bigger pipe and was attempted to crimp the pipes togather it was loud so I crimped thhe pipes better and used exhaust glue to patch the holes it runs better now to a point. but when I start the car it revs up a fair im guessing 3 grand since I have no rpm gauge but then it dies down to a low idle to the point were the car shakes a little bit.
with the exhaust fixed I can get it up to 20 kilometres an hour with my foot off the gas when I turn fully it wants to lurch ahead/backwards. when I took it out for a highway drive today I came to a stop sign so I slowed and stoped and the car stalled out. started no problem. but I also tried later putting it in neutral and it doesn't stall as I role to a stop it doesn't shake in neutral. I would like to have this fixed but I need some pointers as of were to look. im not sure if this means anything but when I got the car it had a bad enough radiator fluid leak at the hose meeting the heating car on the engine side of the fire wall I repaired that and no longer leaks.
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3 months ago I bought a beautiful dark-blue 1988 Volvo 240, manual transmission. This is my first Volvo and I'm already hooked! It's the car that's going to teach me to work on cars because for the most part it's beautifully simple. I bought a repair manual to be prepared, and have now encountered my first real issue.
For several months, even in the rain, it would start and run beautifully. Now when it sits in the rain overnight it will not start the following morning, or until the weather subsides. Once it has a few hours to "dry out" after the rain and humidity stops it starts beautifully. In the wet weather it wants to start, the starter goes and goes and at points it sounds like it almost catches, though ultimately won't. I imagine moisture is getting in somewhere and preventing spark at some point in the ignition system, but, like I mentioned, I'm new to this. Where to begin; what I should replace to begin troubleshooting this?
In a separate issue I can't get fuses for the rear tail/brake lights to keep from blowing when I replace them.
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Recently replaced alternator and battery (was told by Brakes Plus that was the issue). The car (with no warning) sometimes just won't start. Whether after driving it or if it's been sitting for a day or two, sometimes it will only turn over once, but never start. Not sure if it's a timing issue or an issue with spark/fuel. There's also a loud click in time with engine rotation when it does start, may be an injector, also not sure with that.
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1988 s10 blazer 2.8 4x4 automatic. I just upgraded to a 3.4 v6, all machine work done, engine has all new internals. I have spark, i have fuel, but it will not start. I have checked the timing over and over, it is fine. I need a checklist or something to look for, all sensors seem to be hooked up and it still wont fire.
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I have a 1988 Camaro with a v6 engine and it has 70,000 original miles on it. problem is that it is hard to start when its cold so i changed the fuel filter because i read it can be the problem because it might be clogged. so after changing the filter it started and ran really good but after a couple of days now it starts to hesitate and stutter on take off and thru out the whole drive. so far i have changed the distributor cap and the ignition control module but still has same problem.
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I have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL that I just replaced the battery. It started right up after it was installed. We drove it home and parked it for one week without trying to start it again because we still have parts to buy to pass safety. I live in UT. My son went out to start it today and it would not make any sound or turn over. What should I check next? Starter Solenoid? Alternator?
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When my car sits for a while and i go start it i hear for the first 2 seconds a noise then it goes away until i start it up next time after sitting for a while. It sounds kind of like a diesel.
I pulled the oil pan and checked the bearings they are all fine... to me it sounds like it could be something in the top end because the longer it sits, the oil drains out of the top end and when i start it the oil gets pumped back up to the top and stops the noise....but what is it?
I was thinking of checking the valve caps for intake and exhaust with a feeler gauge to see if there's a gap between the camshaft lobe which would make a noise...but more of a ticking...I am not hearing a ticking though.
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I been having occasional problems starting my 1988 honda accord. It also sometimes dies when im stopped for too long. The problem has gotten worse more recently. The engine will rev and struggle to start. After it dies out i often have to let it sit a while before im able to start it. As i am trying to start it im smelling gasoline.
I thought for sure it was the fuel pump so i had it replaced and is still giving me problems. Today i had to give up and come back to it later. It is fuel injected... What the problem might be?
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I'm a rural mail carrier driving an '88 Mazda, manual transmission. Recently noticed that sometimes the car won't start. Didn't have it looked at yet, because it always starts for the mechanic. One of the times I tried to start it and it didn't start on the first try. It did start on the second try and then the keys fell out onto my feet. I put them back in and kept delivering mail. Previous to that incident, I thought the keys were "loose" in the ignition.
So, I switched to a different keyring with only that key on it. Still have incidences of the car not starting. All the lights come on the dashboard when I try it but it doesn't make any noise at all, not even the ding ding ding, you're seatbelt's not on.
I think maybe it might be the battery. It seems like that was it the last time when all the lights came on but it didn't make any noise. However, I don't think a low battery should make the keys fall out. That's not normal, is it?
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I just replaced the auto transmission in my 1988 accord and upon first restart the car will not idle. I has been sitting for about 6 months while I replaced the trans, but was a daily driver prior to that. The car initially starts fine when cold, but shortly after startup starts running very rich and dies. Restart after this requires the throttle pedal to be held down. Engine will start after some cranking - but will not run under 2500 RPM and is obviously very rich. I've rebuild carbs before so I'm thinking about picking up a rebuild kit - just wondering if there could be other parts of the fuel control system that might be at fault.
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1988 Ford E-Series Van ford van starting problems I have a 1988 ford van e150 302 that wont start. when it did start, it ran rough, then progress to needing start fluid to start. Now it cranks but wont start at all. it sat for almost a year with additves in gas but it does smell now unlike normal gas. it has sta-bil and gas line anti freeze as additives. A rail mount high pressure pump was put on two years ago. Could the hi-pres pump been installed backwards? Now it will not start even with starting fluid, just cranks and tries(pops and backfires a little sometimes). I towed in to a mechanic to get diagnosed.
In regards to the 1988 ford van start problems, the mechanics said that fuel is bad and needs drained, that in tank pumps seem to have pressure(low pressure pumps). the rail (high press pump) they say tests 15-20 psi only. the want to drain tanks, replace pump and "go from there". They also said a multitude of problems can happen from "bad gas" ranging from injectors needs cleaning to bent push rods, lifters and crank shaft can be damaged. All may need cleaned, fixed or replacing. does this seem a little fishy ? Could it need the timing set? Or injectors bad?
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I took care of a vacuum leak on this car but I still have an Idle issue on a cold start it doesn't wont to idle at all once I get it warmed up it idle's in park and Neutral fine as soon as I put into drive it want's to die I can keep it going by letting of the gas and then pushing the gas peddle again and take of quickly. Stopping at red lights I have to hurry and put it into neutral or it will die having the ac on makes it worse.
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Any way to tell if the ECU is faulty? I hooked my analyzer up to my friends 1988 Ford ranger 2.3L and it wouldn't even detect that the ignition switch was on. He was driving it the other day and is shut off on him while he was making a turn and it wouldn't start back up. We have rebuilt the distributor by replacing the pick-up, rotor button and cap, and we had the ignition module tested and found it was good. We have also replaced the coil. When the ignition is turned to the on position, the fuel pump comes on and never cycles off.
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I have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
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I have an 88 244 dl. I recently changed the battery charge bulb in the instrument cluster and no I have a no start. The starter engages and the motor turns over but makes no attempt to start. I checked all the fuses including the 25 amp fuse under the hood.
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When it's cold outside my car will start up, but not stay running. The only way I can get it to stay running is to keep my food on the gas for up to five minutes. Once the vehicle is warmed up, it stays running. If I start it every hour or so, it will run fine. It's just when it's been sitting out in around zero degree weather overnight for example.
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My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
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