Chevrolet - S-10 :: 1988 - Check Gauges Light Comes On Randomly?
Aug 22, 2011
i have a 1988 2.4L 185,000+ miles chevy s10 pu. the check gauges light has been coming on for some time. the gauge bounces up and down a lot. but settles to 20psi at driving speeds. there is no tapping or noises from the engine and has good power and oil. what should i have check
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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Just had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
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I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport and the Check Gauges Light has come on, it usually happens after during my commute and I have been on the freeway for about 10 minutes, I exit and at the first stoplight it comes on. Doesn't come on in normal around town driving, just in that situation each day. I took it in to my mechanic and twice and it still comes on, they said they replaced the oil pump. Anyway, could it be that the gauge light has to be reset? I don't see any leak after two days on the street now. I am at my wits end, before I take it to different mechanic, I'd like to see what the boards say.
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So my band mates and I own a 2002 Dodge Ram Wagon (15 passenger) with ~130k miles on it. Bought it 2 years ago with 106k. We've had a slew of problems with it ranging fro brakes to radiator to electrical problems. We are often on the road for 4-6 hours straight (sometimes more) and we typically drive it above the speed limit on the freeway because we need to be somewhere. So lately while driving the check gauges light will come on suddenly and the alternator/battery gauge is maxed out, which lasts a few minutes and then returns to normal. Im wondering if this is something indicative of a potential alternator issue or merely just the van working hard and having some sort of power fluctuation momentarily. There's typically no issue in starting the engine or anything like that, and we actually had the alternator belt blow out about 6 months ago and we replaced the battery probably a year or so ago, so the whole system should be pretty new and in good shape.
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2000 Dakota, 4.7 V8 ... The 'CHECK GAUGES' light comes on intermittently. As soon as it comes on, the voltmeter gauge drops to zero (it is a brand new battery); the temperature gauge does flip flops; the truck dies right now. Walk home and come back later, and it starts up again. When you get home, you sure don't feel secure in taking it on the road again. The shop checked it and of course there was nothing wrong when they had it Where do I start the troubleshoot? Is it computer or?
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The check gauges light on my 1988 Cheyenne 4x4 is coming on and the oil pressure gauge is erratic back and forth from low to high pressure.
The vehicle is a 4.3L manual. Any likely cause or where to start with troubleshooting?
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My 2004 ford explorer 4.0 has this issue where the check gauges will come on for 2-3 sec, then the temp gauge will go from normal and peg to hot and as soon as it pegs it drops right back down to normal. I have had the thermostat replaced and have flushed the radiator. I am at a loss here....
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I have a 2010 Chev Cobalt LT, bought brand new off the lot- at about 15,000 km's, I started to experience some electrical issues.. Basically, what it is the parking brake light comes on in the instrument panel along with the all the other warning lights, both speedo and rpm gauges stop working, -- basically EVERYTHING electrical, but the lights, and turn signals, hazards work-- took it in to the GM Dealer- they cleaned the BCM Connectors, it was fine for about 4 months- now it's doing it again... Same thing as before warning lights come on, and everything stops except last night the Keyless Entry would not work at all... This has me stumped and it's annoying having to take it all the time..
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This morning, the tow/haul light came on, tranny temp gauge wouldn't read (stayed below zero), "check gauges" warning came up on the panel, and "check engine" light came on. Truck ran fine/shifted fine, always has.
2007 F-250, V-10, 5-r 110 tranny.
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So, last December, I was sitting at a stop light, when my engine suddenly started rattling. "Check Gauges" light on, ZERO oil Pressure..
Took car to mechanic, he removed the valve covers, and scoped out the timing chains with a camera, and found everything intack, and no chips out of the timing guides (125K miles on the engine). no sludge, nothing.
Engine runs fine (for 5 seconds at a time) no issues. Removed Intake to check the Oil Pump Drive Gear, all is well.
Removed Oil Pan Inspection Plate, All is well. ZERO plastic chips in the oil pan from timing guides, ZERO sludge, all is clean.
Back up to top of engine, pull the Oil Pump Drive Shaft using needle nose pliers from the top of the engine. BUT!!!
Only the top 8 inches of the Oil Pump Drive Shaft comes out! The bottom gear is not present! Is it still in the oil pump?
OK, so I need a new oil pump drive shaft. no Problem.. BUT: how do I get the broken oil shaft out of the engine before I put a new one in? Use a magnet? Rubber hose?
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Driving my 2003 today seen the "check gages" light on and the trans temp gage pegged on hot. CRAP, tranny time! look at the edge evo and it reads trans temp as -60F ???. Plugged in the torque pro and it reads 8,240F. At that point I figure its PROBABLY not that hot. Let it sit for a while and back to normal. Watch trans temp on torque pro as I drive it and everything is fine till it gets to about 150, then it jumps to 60F, then 30F, the 8240F. The cooler lines and trans pan are both feel normal. Picked up a new temp sender on my way home.
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It's a 2000 . She just started seeing the gauges randomly swing all the way over, not sure which way . They stay that way until she starts it again and it's all fine and dandy once more. I'd go into more detail but haven't got them since it's not my truck and this is the first I have heard of it
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I have a 2008 Malibu LS and the service traction light comes on randomly, I suspect a sensor. The car operates fine and this light has been coming on for several months. My question is can I just ignore? Another question is that I had new tires put on and they said I needed new control arms and bushings. I'm always suspicious when I go in for one thing and told I need something else. What would be the symptoms that I need to replace these parts?
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So I have a check engine light on and it goes off and on randomly and when I checked with a scanner at like pepboys it shows code P0420 which is the catalytic converter . [URL]....................
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I'm a rural mail carrier driving an '88 Mazda, manual transmission. Recently noticed that sometimes the car won't start. Didn't have it looked at yet, because it always starts for the mechanic. One of the times I tried to start it and it didn't start on the first try. It did start on the second try and then the keys fell out onto my feet. I put them back in and kept delivering mail. Previous to that incident, I thought the keys were "loose" in the ignition.
So, I switched to a different keyring with only that key on it. Still have incidences of the car not starting. All the lights come on the dashboard when I try it but it doesn't make any noise at all, not even the ding ding ding, you're seatbelt's not on.
I think maybe it might be the battery. It seems like that was it the last time when all the lights came on but it didn't make any noise. However, I don't think a low battery should make the keys fall out. That's not normal, is it?
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First, my g/f and I love her 2.0T, but lately a few things have started to bother us.
1. Strange, rhythmic squeeling at low speeds (like a bearing or warped rotors) that goes away when the brakes are applied.
2. Driver's seat is rocking back and forth under heavy acceleration and braking. I hope it's just a loose bolt and not a crack in the floorpan.
3. Check engine light randomly comes on for a day or two then goes off conveniently after we schedule an appointment with the service department.
What might be causing these issues?
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I have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 (2D Hatchback) that has been randomly stalling since we bought it. There is no engine light, the dealership couldn't get it to stall and just gave it back. Another garage got it to stall and thought it might be the "idle-oxygen sensor" (not sure if I'm remembering the name correctly), but that didn't stop it from stalling either.
My wife is ready to dump it, but even spending a couple thousand a year on repairs is less than the grand total of a year's payments on a new car, insurance, etc. But it would be nice to fix it.
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Ive got a '94 ranger with the 8 plugs and more often than not while driving and sometimes when it first starts, the cel comes on and immediately I notice a lil rough running and lack of power. Also my milage has dropped since this has started. Plugs, wires, o2 sensors, not to familiar with my gas saver. I love it cause I can just get in it and go. With twice the fuel milage as my bi truck!
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I randomly started throwing a couple codes that have been causing my "check engine" light to come on ... came on on my way into work this morning) . I know that the P0683 code is the Glow Plug Ctrl Module to PCM Comm Circuit (from my code reader), but I am not sure what to do next ... I have the dealer service DVD from 2002 that I will look at this weekend....
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In a 06 F250 the gauges and radio die randomly while driving. The dash lights stay on though. What can I check or replace?
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