Chevrolet - S-10 :: 1987 - Transmission Slips In Forward Gears And Can't Go In Reverse
Feb 10, 2013
My '87 Chevy S-10 transmission slips like mad in forward gears and I can't go everywhere in reverse. The truck is gaaged in southern Virginia about 60 miles from my home and is used on some country property. The local transmission shop wants $1600 to rebuild the trans. He says he used sturdier parts than the replacement GM parts. I'd like to fix the truck because it comes in handy and was my dad's old mode of transportation around the Va. countryside, so it has sentimental value.
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Last night transmission in my beloved '89 Caprice Wagon let go, it slips completely in all the forward gears. I was coming down a long hill using low gear for several minutes and when I put it back into OD at the bottom it seemed to skip a little but it was still making power well enough. I got off the freeway at my exit and stopped at a red light, when the light changed I was revving high but barely creeping through the intersection. I pulled over and this is what I figured out:-All the forward gears make essentially no power any more.-Reverse seems to work normally.-The fluid is at a normal level and not discolored or burnt smelling.
I don't know if this is related or just an amazing coincidence but the water pump also seems to have blown the gasket at the same time. I must have just happened within a few minutes of me pulling over because there was still a ton of coolant left and the temp was still in the normal range. I don't see how they're related but, like I said, the timing is too coincidental. Earlier this week but just a few miles ago I also topped the power steering fluid and oil.
It's a 200-R4 transmission, is it toast? Why does reverse work but all the forward gears slip completely? Is the water pump just a red herring? I did drive the rest of the way home in reverse.
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2006 f150 4x4 4R75E trans slipping in forward gears, reverse is ok. I dropped pan and it was clean. I dropped valve body and found OD servo shaft clip broken, the large snapring was I fine and in place. It allowed the inner shaft to float up and down. Would this cause my forward gears to slip or do I have a bigger problem?
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I have a 98 expedition with a 4.2 liter 4x4 and what I believe to be a 4r70w transmission (u code on the door sticker)
The original transmission went at 105k miles and was replaced with a new factory ford transmission by a ford dealer 3.5 years ago. The new transmission only has 10k miles on it.
Now the new transmission only has reverse. reverse works like normal but no forward gears. the idle will change when i put if in gear, but will not move, acts like it is in N . There is no strange noises.
It's hard to believe a new trany is shot already, no towing, or off road use.
My question is : is there ANYTHING that can go bad that would cause this? The trany fluid is clean and clear bright red, and no burnt smell.
I want to check everything I can before calling a tow truck to have it looked at. I will have it repaired if needed, but I don't think I want to replace another tranny.
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The truck is a 2002 f150 4x4 5.4l... I was driving down the free way last night in 2wd doing about 90kpm when there was a loud bang like a ran over something. Speedo went to zero and abs light came on. Pulled over and shut it down. Crawled underneath to check so damage and couldn't see anything. Stared it back up put it in drive and it just revs. No forward gears or reverse. Fluid level is good, bright pink. Dropped the transmission pan, pan is clean and magnet has next to nothing on it.
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I'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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I recently bought a decent looking 1999 f250 4x4 5.4 auto. It has no forward gears and will only move in reverse. I topped off the fluids and have found no leaks so far the cooler lines are crusty but dry. I am gonna need to swap this thing out or do some more trouble shooting if there may be a non rebuild issue to solve.
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I have a 95 F250 with 7.5 and E4OD. I was towing my Jeep and trailer out for the weekend a few months back (its been parked since) and heard some noise coming from the trailer. So at a stop light I put it in park with the engine running for a second, went to put it back into drive and it hasn't gone back into drive since. Reverse works perfectly. Fortunately I was able to back up onto the center divide, unload my Jeep and back the truck onto the trailer and tow home with my buddies Chevy. Anyways, its been dead since. Where I can start to look? None of the forward gears work at all.
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The other day I was leaving my house. I started the car and heard a quick, loud chirp. That was the only noise it made so I continued to leave. I rolled out of my driveway and proceeded to put it in drive and found myself rolling backwards. I tried every forward shift, kicked on the 4x4 and continued to roll backwards. I thought reverse worked but found that it wasn't engaging either. My question: is there anything I can look at before resorting to taking it to the tranny shop? I'm in school for automotive and am confident in my abilities to test solenoids and maybe even dropping the valve body to check that. Other than that, I lack the skill to pull the tranny myself and work on it.
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My 1999 7.3l Disel 4x4 transmission quit on me the other day. No forward or reverse. Got towed to my regular repair shop, and they are treating the transmission as a black box and recommending total replacement. The diagnostics they performed were to make sure it was shifting, and that indeed it wasn't going forward or reverse. They drained the fluid and said "it's pitch black" and said it had to be completely replaced.
Fluid level was OK, and it wasn't hot. I was driving along, and merging onto the highway. It downshifted, shuddred, and nadda. Free rev. I coasted to the next exit and into a parking lot. Verified that it was shifting, checked Rev and all forwards. It wouldn't shift into 4W, and 1-2 also wouldn't move.
I'm trying to figure out what might have happened... and if it's worth trying to have the truck towed to a transmission shop and have them diagnose and rebuild, vs just getting a remanufactured transmission. None of the local wreckers have any used transmissions, and the cost between a reman and a used is pretty negligible...
Not sure what the symptoms points to for exact failure mode, be it the torque converter, pump, input shaft, etc... I've never had an automatic transmission apart before, but built plenty of motors and am a machinist by trade. My preference is to try and root cause the failure...
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
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Recently purchased a flooded 2013 VW Passat TDI and am a newbie. Flushed trans and did a fluid change. Transmission slips on hard acceleration in 2nd and 4th gears and under minimal pull in 6th gear. I then took it to dealership and they told me there was an active code for intermittent low pressure and told me I needed a new mechatronic and that fluid was still somewhat milky. After telling them it was a flood vehicle they told me I needed a new transmission.
Brought it home and drained fluid again and replaced the K-2 solenoid, refilled fluid and test drove. Still slipping the same. Pulled trans today to look at K-2 clutch pack and found what appears to be three pieces of rubber seal (approx 1/64 thick, 1/16 wide, and when putting pieces together appears to be 1 1/2 inside dia. I think one small piece is still missing. Arrived at the 1 1/2" ID by the curvature of remaining pieces) inside the inner hub. I have inspected most of the pieces and cannot come up with where these have come from. I believe they have to be from somewhere that seals up the K-2 piston.
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My 2001 Corolla S has 215,000 miles on it. I bought it used when it had 192,000 miles on it. The transmission slightly slips gears, rear brakes need changed, and a couple sway bar links. I can get the sway bar links replaced soon along with the brakes. The car has been very reliable since I've had it. I've gotten the oil changed routinely and added fuel injection about every 10,000 miles. I do not drive the car aggressively, and it hardly ever goes over 3,000 rpm.
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My son's 96 camry 4-cyl developed a transmission problem. It slips in the forward gears. Reverse works find. At start, the first gear slips allot but eventually moves the car. It also slips between gears. The transmission fluid has a burnt smell and a dark color. The problem started about 1 1/2 years after I swiped out the transmission. The replacement transmission is used and I was told it came from Japan. It worked great up until the problem started.
In one Post I found suggested old contaimination buildup that may have clog a shift port or something. Can I gain access to the hydraulic area without pulling the transmission? And if so, is there hope in recovering the transmission by cleaning this area? Is there a solution that does not require removing the transmission?
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission. Transmission slips in reverse when backing up a slight incline. Will changing the transmission fluid solve this problem? The car has 115000 miles on it.
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My low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
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Cars transmission slips during take-off . 180,000 miles , does it need service, modulator valve or replacement?
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The 91 bonneville stopped having forward gears but was drove back in reverse about 4 miles, reverse appears to work fine does this thing need new transmission or is there an easier fix...
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Had tranny fluid and filter replaced a couple months ago. It's in a 35 foot motorhome (F53 chassis). The motorhome is within it's GCWR. Climbing a 6% grade at 3,500 rpm, little more than half throttle, like all the other climbs. 80 degrees out. Engine temp was on the letter "R" on the word "NORMAL". All of a sudden my engine redlines as if it popped into neutral. I let off, put it into neutral, and try "D" again. Nothing.
At this point it's uphill so it's naturally slowing down and I try "2". Nothing. Even slower and I try "1". Nothing. Pulling over blocking the right lane on a blind curve on a grade is scary. Had pylon cones out, waving traffic to warn them down a ways, etc.
No fluid on the ground, no slipping prior to this. I have reverse. I see no obvious linkage or electrical/wire issues underneath (from road debris, etc). It's at a shop but I want to know all I can so if they come back with something outrageous I can make a decision. I never pulled the stick, as I was coordinating traffic, highway patrol, a tow truck, etc.
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