What can cause a car to jerk forward while accelerating? Other symptoms include loss of HP and MPG. Recently had spark plugs and wires changed. Regular maintenance. I am about to see my mechanic and ask him to check the fuel pressure.
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo ss 100,000mi
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 6cyl 100,000 miles
Symptom, loss of horse power (from a stop and going uphill), surge or lunge forward when accelerating (misfire?), rough idle (occasional knock). Maintenance, regularly change all filters and fluids, recently had the m.a.f cleaned and changed air filter, spark plugs and wires, oil.
There have been times in the past year or so when the car would crank but not start. Especially when the car was hot. Wait a couple minutes and it would start. Also a couple of times the car would shake fairly hard when started, get up to speed and it was fine.
I have had people tell me anything from a clogged catalytic converter to bad fuel injectors or fuel pump.
Scanned the car last week. No codes showed up. Never had a Check Engine Light.
I forgot to mention that every once and a while the car will jerk when accelerating. I have a coworker who said his truck started to jerk forward and later would not start at all. Our mechanic said it was the fuel pump. I I will see what that does for him.
My fuel pump is about 5psi low. Is that enough to justify replacing it. The car likes to buck when accelerating. Had the cat converter tested. It was in good shape. Replace plugs and wires a while back. Regular maintenance. 2002 Monte Carlo SS 100k miles.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. I believe it has a 4T65-E transmission.
On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
I have a 2002 Monte Carlo what recently had a new radiator, thermostat, intake manifold gaskets replaced. I was spewing coolant everywhere. Since the repairs with all new OEM parts, I still get the 'Hot Coolant Temp" warning on my dash. The temp gauge is pinned at 260 but minutes later drastically drop to under half way after which it seems to balance out at slightly under half way.
I also see the 'Low Coolant" as well even though I am full. All of this occurring while driving. I checked the oil and underneath the oil cap. No frothy or milkiness. Exhaust seems ok, no white smoke. The heat inside my car when i run it seems to go from warm to cold and back again. I'm praying it's not a cracked heard or blown head gaskets.
I have a 2011 Chevy Impala. When accelerating from a stop it will frequently stutter then jerk forward. The first time this happened I thought someone had rear-ended me.
I've been to the dealer several times about this however they say they cannot isolate the cause. More importantly I can't seem to get the vehicle to repeat this problem when I've brought it to the dealership.
I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
i own a 95 monte carlo z34. ever since i bought it last yr. i have had starting problems. i thought it might be a fuse, checked them all and there fine. i noticed when i pluged in the 2 ingnition fuses back in the fuse block under the hood,the security light lit up for a min then went out. now my car has the chip in the key also. i thought the securty system is failing some how. might it be the tumbler in the colum? if so i read here it could be bypassed, by buying a resister, and spliceing in to a fat orange wire under the steering column, to by pass the security system. is it that easy? if the person who posted the ad with the same problems im haveing could give me more detail instructions on doing this my self,because id rather fix it than take it to a dealer and spend big bucks i don't have.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with 120,XXX miles on it. For the past year, I've been hearing a very loud POP or KNOCK when I put the car in reverse from park. Here are the details that make it so vexing.
• It only happens first thing in the morning. For the rest of the day, there is no pop.
• It only happens in cooler weather (less than 50°.)
• The sound comes from different places each time. Sometimes it sounds like it's in my rear passenger wheel well. Sometimes from the front of the car. Sometimes from directly beneath the driver seat.
• Rarely, there will be times when I'm driving and I "goose" on the gas, there will be a light pop sound. (when in drive)
I've had all of the motor mounts replaced (per mechanics opinion) and the problem persisted. My mechanic suggested it might also be transmission mounts but he doesn't know without actually replacing them. From visual inspection, he didn't see anything suspicious. Since the car is probably near the end of its life, I didn't want to spend a lot (more) on something that might not even be the problem. I asked if it was safe to drive and he said yes. I have noticed that when I put my car in reverse each morning and hear the pop, it seems to jar the car rather violently.
I have a 2001 Monte Carlo that I absolutely love. The check engine light has been on forever, despite repairs that should have turned that light off. Just recently, my car has started to gain RMP while I'm stopped or going anywhere between 0-25 miles per hour. This also makes the car physically shake and jolt. Very unfortunate. I turn it on to drive once more and then my check engine light flashed and beeped at me. I thought about waiting to take it in until Monday, but now I think it is best to bring it in now.
View 4 RepliesHere's the deal with this car i just did head gasket, valve job, all new intake gaskets and spark plugs. Car idles fine and mid throttles fine but with high throttle it wont shift and flashes the random misfire light p0300 it seems to run out of power. I've heard everything from maf sensors to ignition coils and wires. i was just wonder a good place to start and good test to do. I have most testing equipment including scan tool so i can ride with it. o and all cylinders compression tested above 150.....
View 13 Replies2000 Chevy Monte Carlo... The heater/blower only works sometimes, usually not at all when it's freezing out. when it's a little warmer out, it tends to work more often, but still not all the time. what could this be? my husband tried replacing the blower motor, but that didn't change the situation, so he put the old one back in, and is now puzzled ?
View 3 RepliesI found a steal of a car for my son, a 2003 Monte Carlo SS. The car had been hit slightly in the LF corner. The car needed front brakes, so I bought a package off Ebay that had rotors, pads, and wheel hubs. I replaced the LF wheel hub when we did the brakes and kept one for a spare since the RF felt good.
Shortly after replacing these parts, the car started to make a popping sound when you would turn right. The popping sound is much like an exhaust pipe dragging on the ground. We checked to make sure the was no contact with moving parts. After reading several forums, we decided to replace the LF hub with the spare we had. This did not fix the situation, so we put the first replacement LF hub onto the RF. Still no fix.
After this we decided to take the car to a empty parking lot and drove in circles trying to find the source of the noise. We discovered that the noise would go away if the car was put into neutral. We were still unable to locate the source of the noise.
So I decided to jack the car up and put it in gear and turn right. The noise did not occur with no load on the tires. However the u-joints on the axles were making some excessive noise, so I put in a new set of axles. Again this did not fix the noise. Now thinking the source must be in the differential.
Well two days after putting in new axles, the transmission went out. This will surely fix it, right? Well the mechanic that fixed the transmission said the pump had gone out, and it appeared the differential was creating shavings that caused this situation. GREAT WE FOUND THE SOURCE. Not so much!
Car still makes noise while turning right after replacing the transmission. I have driven myself crazy trying to find the source of this noise including riding in the engine compartment while my father drove in circles in the local high school parking lot.
How to fix a gear shift that tends to get stuck once in awhile. What about WD, and how would you apply it? I have a '97 Monte Carlo.
View 2 Replies I have a noise coming from the interior of my car that is incredibly, amazingly, terribly obnoxious. Not to mention somewhat embarrassing when I have a passenger, and it decides to show off.
Part of the problem is that it's unpredictable when it will occur. It could go weeks or even months without making the noise. Out of nowhere, it will start up again and continue once or twice day, or even any time I start the engine.
The best way I can describe it is: TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
A brief pause of maybe 5 seconds....Then: TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
If I switch the blowing knob from the driver setting to, say, feet, or dash, it'll stop for a moment and then resume with the TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
After it gets as many TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUKs out of its system as possible, everything goes back to normal. During this process and afterwards, it blows cool/hot air at the correct setting, so no performance issues.
Car in question is a 2006 Monte Carlo - Any possibility this is a relatively simple DIY repair? I'm comfortable with basic tasks like replacing car stereos, speakers, headlights, oil change...If this'll require much more skill than those sorts of tasks, I'll likely need to put this repair in the hands of a professional.
I took my 2002 Chevy Prizm to a Firestone shop to have the tires rotated, battery and serpentine belt replaced, oil changed, and brakes adjusted. Yesterday, I noticed a chirping sound when I accelerate. Yesterday was also the first time since the maintenance work that I was driving without any music playing. So, it's possible that the chirping sound was happening before.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 2500HD duramax that is stalling out when accelerating heavily ( as when passing ) I replaced the fuel filter, this seemed to solve the problem for a day or two. The problem returned after two days of driving. I took the new filter off and cleaned the lower float valve,replaced it & it seemed to drive fine until I took it for a test drive and "gassed it" and the problem returned.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving at between 20-45 MPH in warm weather only IDEAL SPEED IS 38-42 .. At times the car jerks forward and downward like, even slowing down at red light: Seems like the whole problem is coming from transmission! (Sensors)? The car is cursed. Example:
1- The symptom seems like your driving in drive position then all of sudden it shifts to low gear
2- When driving normal then it seems like the car shifts to neutral and the RPMs shoot up to 3-4
3- Sometimes when stopped the steering wheel shakes bad.
The car runs normal in winter time? Doesn't do it everyday.
Grinding noise in front end, replaced caliper, bearing, brakes and cv joint...
View 5 RepliesWhen cruising my engine randomly has a miss. If I step on it, not necessarily full throttle but some, the engine pulls fine no miss. I don't think it's ignition because it doesn't miss with increased throttle. I have looked at an analyzer and none of the sensors is showing a fault. I have put 20 tankfuls of fuel with cleaner through it after I put a new fuel pump and filter on and I only use Shell now for the last 10 fill ups. The miss is not a passive drop in rpm but more of a buck.
View 5 RepliesMy mechanic told me that the fuel pressure is about 5psi low. Could this cause jerking/bucking during acceleration?100,000mi SS
View 7 Replies