I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo that has me stumped as to why it leaks. The driver side axle seal leaks fluid only after a drive. I have replaced the axle twice and seal 6 times and it still leaks. I am stumped on this one. Unless I got a bad axle twice that the diameter of the sealing surface is too small but didn't seem like it as the seal hugs the shaft.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 sonata 3.3 with auto trans I'm having trouble with fluid leaking from the passenger side axle seal. I have already replaced the seal with a Hyundai seal and it is still leaking. Not as bad as before but it leaks onto the exhaust and smells really bad. The transmission is not overfull...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Monte Carlo. I recently noticed a knocking sound in the driver side wheel area whenever I pull off or make turns. My mechanic said it was my rack & pinion bushing & that the whole rack had to be replaced, I just had it replaced last yr. So I get it replaced & it's still making the noise. Brakes & rotors were replaced in March as well the struts. The tie rods were replaced last in 2014. I don't know what to do now. What I can do?
View 9 RepliesI noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
View 11 RepliesSo I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
The steering fluid pump reservoir has a leak ive been told by my trusted mechanic. The first bout of cold below freezing weather, the steering fluid drains out and I have to refill it. After refilling, I'll have to fill it again in a few days sometimes lasts a few weeks. Might not have the car for much longer. How to cope with this rather than get a (expensive I was told) new steering pump.
View 2 RepliesI get my oil change at the Toyota dealership instead of Lexus and save quite a bit of money for my 2013 ES350. At the 30k service, Toyota technician said he noticed transmission fluid leaking at the axle seal." I was gonna show Lexus this at some point, or maybe get an oil change there at the 40k service.
View 3 RepliesI have replaced my cv axle and seal, and now I have transmission fluid leaking from the axle seal. What could be the cause of this? The seal is brand new as is the cv axle. Could it be that it the seal isn't seated correctly? What could possibly went wrong to cause this?
View 3 RepliesI installed a JDM 2ZZ-GE engine and 6 speed manual trans-axle into my 2000 Celica GT.
I have ran into a interesting problem. I replaced the output shaft seals and now whenever the car is in the air and the suspension is unloaded (the drive axle is pulled slightly from the trans) the drivers side seal leaks a bit of gear oil. The drive axle is snapped into place. Nothing leaks when the car is on the ground.
I did reuse the old drive axles, which had a lot of miles on them but still appeared good and useable. I have been told to replace the new seal because it may be damaged, but I am wondering if it may be that the drive axle end is worn.
I have seen this with harmonic balancers for engines. They even sell a replacement sleeve for harmonic balancers so you can re-use the old worn one.
I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with 120,XXX miles on it. For the past year, I've been hearing a very loud POP or KNOCK when I put the car in reverse from park. Here are the details that make it so vexing.
• It only happens first thing in the morning. For the rest of the day, there is no pop.
• It only happens in cooler weather (less than 50°.)
• The sound comes from different places each time. Sometimes it sounds like it's in my rear passenger wheel well. Sometimes from the front of the car. Sometimes from directly beneath the driver seat.
• Rarely, there will be times when I'm driving and I "goose" on the gas, there will be a light pop sound. (when in drive)
I've had all of the motor mounts replaced (per mechanics opinion) and the problem persisted. My mechanic suggested it might also be transmission mounts but he doesn't know without actually replacing them. From visual inspection, he didn't see anything suspicious. Since the car is probably near the end of its life, I didn't want to spend a lot (more) on something that might not even be the problem. I asked if it was safe to drive and he said yes. I have noticed that when I put my car in reverse each morning and hear the pop, it seems to jar the car rather violently.
2000 Chevy Monte Carlo... The heater/blower only works sometimes, usually not at all when it's freezing out. when it's a little warmer out, it tends to work more often, but still not all the time. what could this be? my husband tried replacing the blower motor, but that didn't change the situation, so he put the old one back in, and is now puzzled ?
View 3 RepliesMy 2007 Tahoe is leaking a bluish or greenish fluid from the rear driver's side. I have not looked to see exactly where the leak is coming from, but was wondering what this could be?
View 2 Replies2000 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4l - The problem that I currently have is that the car will not idle smoothly, it bounces between 600 and 800 rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and thought I checked the hoses. Just got done changing the upper and lover manifold seals, during which I replaced or cleaned what ever was suggested by the place I purchased my parts through. I am at a loss, I have begun to notice that there are small fluctuations on the highway when I am using the cruise control and am on flat land.
View 16 RepliesMy poor 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS is turning into a hooptie. Or at least it sounds like one. I am due for a front brake pad change in about a month, so I'm wondering if this new noise has anything to do with it. If not, I certainly hope it's affordable!
And now to the strange noise being emitted from the front of the car. This morning, about 50 degrees, I started my engine to drop my boyfriend off at work. While idling in the parking spot, I heard a dim car horn - fog horn combo noise. A neighbor gave me a "wtf" face, and I'm sure I returned her stare with the same expression. Hoping it was something else, I drove off.
First stop light, just down the block, while idling and waiting for the light to turn green, I hear the same noise. Very embarrassing. Next light I stop at, same noise. Once the car got to half of its optimum temperature, the noise stopped and didn't return.
That is, until several hours later when I needed to go to work and restarted the car from a cool nap. Same noise.
So, what the deal is? I thought it might be fan related, as it kind of sounds like there is some rattling going on in there, too.
While diagnosing an issue with my ebrakes I found the drivers rear axle seal was leaking coating the ebrakes in gear oil, replaced the seal. Decided to pull the differential fill plug and check to make sure it was full - drained a good bit out pulling the hub to replace the seal. To my horror this is what I find when I pull the plug. First photo is as it came out on the magnet - second is after a clean up. What is it? I am almost afraid to drop the cover....
View 14 Replies2005 4wd excursion. I have a leaking rear seal on passenger side.
I have the hub assembly off. I'm down to the spindle. My old seal came out in pieces. There's either a piece of the old seal or another seal on the back of the spindle.
Are there two seals? This what looks like a seal still on the spindle against the plate on the back...
My Chevy Malibu is having a bit of trouble.
When I drive on inclines my reservoir leaks. It did it way more when I lived up a hill, but since I've moved to a more flat area, I barely see it.
A more serious issue I am having is with my ignition/gear shift. When I try to turn the car off it will not go to the OFF position. If I wiggle the handle, it will then go off.
Picture if you will...Removed tire, caliper and rotor. Removed hub, and knuckle containing the stub shaft/spindle with it's yoke for the U joint. You are now looking at the end of the axle tube, with the axle shaft in it, one end connected to the differential carrier, the other end has the yoke for the U joint on it. Just inboard of the yoke, is a seal. Apparently it's called a "dust seal" is there a bearing behind this, or is the first bearing all the way in at the differential? When I was doing my brakes, I noticed the passenger side u-joint is shot, and the axle wiggles around in the dust seal. Figured I'd replace the seal while I was doing the U joint. Also, how do I get the axle shaft out? Just pull, or do I have to remove a C clip from the inboard end? What is the right National part number for the seal? I have a 6/2000 Excursion.
View 2 RepliesI just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
View 6 RepliesMy driver side caliper will not bleed fluid, is it safe to say that the caliper needs replacing.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles
Its been awhile since I have been on. Everything has been running great for me until I found my passenger side front axle leaking fluid. I'm sure something has been posted on here but I have limited access to internet right now and need to know what I am getting into to change the seals. From what I have found there is an inner seal in the pumpkin and then an outer seal and dust cover. Are both of these easy to change? Are there any special tools needed? Do I need to remove the gears in the pumpkin? If so, is this difficult and any special tools required for this?
Mine is a 2001 V10-6.8, 4x4 no mods at this point.