Chevrolet - Malibumaxx :: 2006 - Intermittent Starting On Cold Mornings
Feb 2, 2013
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
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My 2000 jetta vr6 sounds very terrible when starting it in the morning after sitting overnight..
It only started when the weather has been getting colder it starts great in the warm and after I have been driving it recently.
It idles like crap, sounds like bogging and then eventually will get better once warmer
The other day got EPC light and traction control light and then that went away after a bit of driving now this morning check engine light ...
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On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx. This just started a little while ago, before I replaced front brake pads. after I start the engine whether cold or hot, the brakes will pulse briefly when I step on them to get the car in gear. It feels like the ABS, but it only does after a fresh start, and not when braking. The car stops fine. The brake pedal is a little spongy, probably because I didn't bleed them, but the pulse was already happening so I don't think they are connected. there are no warning lights on at all. Also, it doesn't do it 100% of the time, maybe 80 to 85%.
In order to bleed I guess I need a scan tool, but the bleeding procedure is a bi-directional function which is not supported by most of the gizmos available. Know of one that might work without spends thousands?
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I am working on a 1995 S10 Blazer. it has a 4.3l vortex. The vehicle runs good. The problem is when it is shut off at end of day. Then the next morning it will not start. Then at a different time in the same morning it will start and run all day. I have fiddled with it when it will not start. It acts like it wants to fire but will not start. If I am persistent with it and crank and pump the hell out of it eventually it will start. I have checked the fuel pressure when it will not start and it is good. There is also spark. I don't know what to check next. I has been cold when it does this. What to look at?
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I have a 2003 Impala 3.4 with an intermittent starting issue. It starts perfectly every morning but after it is hot and I park it over 15 minutes or so it will sometimes not start. All the regular dash lights come on as normal but when the key is turned it does not even try to turn over, it is just silence, To get it started I have to hit the column shift lever upward several times and then it will kick right off with no hesitation. Sometimes I have to turn the key 10-20 times to get it started also. I had the battery, starter and alternator tested under load and they are all fine. It is not the security problem either that many impalas have. The only code I have is a PO 336 for crankshaft position sensors. Is there some kind of linkage in the column that could be worn that could cause this?
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My son has a 2000 Impala which will not start if it has been warmed up and then turned off for 30-40 minutes. If you turn it off and wait 15 minutes it will start every time - wait much longer and you are stranded. The starter sounds normal and you would think it is going to start but it won't. The car sat at the dealership for 2 weeks and they couldn't solve the problem. If the car is cold it starts every time.
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I just purchased a 2005 Malibu Maxx about three months ago; it only has 19,000 miles on it. The fuel gauge never goes beyond 3/4 when I fill up. It does go down as I drive, so it seems to be working other than not registering full. A friend suggested trying Seafoam. Is this fuel gauge problem something to worry about? Or should I just keep driving and not worry about it?
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My 2005 Malibu Maxx LT started shaking on the front end for about the past month. I took it on the highway the other day and realized that the faster I go the scarier it is to be driving it. Apparently this is a"Maxx thing" from what I have read online, but GM does not acknowledge that this happens to many owners of this vehicle and refuses to offer any solutions or reasons. So now I am stuck with it and need to figure out how to fix it.
The 2 mechanics I have taken it to assumed I was referring to the tires and said the tires look fine and there is nothing wrong the the bolts. The first guy gave the bolts a slight tightening and sent the silly woman on her way. The second guy I made drive it, he took it for 2 minutes and he said it is just lousy pavement we have in this area and that I was being paranoid. Could this be caused by tie rod issues, or maybe rack and pinion?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Max with automatic transmission, 129,000 miles. It's got a higher pitched whine that increases as I accelerate between first and second gear and between 2nd and 3rd. I can't hear once it's in 3rd gear. It sounds like an RC car or early video game race car sound. I can hear it winding down as I slow down through those gears. It's also audible when the car is in neutral or park, but not then the brakes are fully applied. I can't really hear it in reverse.
I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.
It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.
Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx with a 3.5 L V6 engine. I bought it new ten years ago and it now has 71,000 miles. In the past year, I noticed that sometimes when I accelerated, the car hesitated for a split second. I assumed a transmission problem was around the corner. I recently had the car serviced and had the spark plugs and wires replaced. It is a 100,000 mile maintenance item but since the car was 10 years old, I decided to get it done. Ever since the plugs were replaced, the hesitation on acceleration problem has gone away. Is it possible that the problem was the spark plugs?
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My 2010 has the intermittent noise when starting in the cold. Brought car to dealer with printout of the TSB from December and they will not repair it unless they duplicate the noise. Also I read about a rear motor mount to be replaced.
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My ugly little 2000 Accent that I've taken careful care of for 240,000 miles has developed an intermittent, multi-symptom cold starting problem, how to solve....
Background on the car: I've owned this car since it had only 9,000 miles, so I know everything that's happened to it over the years. I've kept up on all the regularly-scheduled maintenance over the years and miles - oil changes, timing belts, engine coolant, water pump, belts and hoses, pcv valve, plugs & wires, fuel and air filters, transmission fluid, etc.
No check engine light on, no codes to diagnose available
Not leaking oil from the top or the bottom
No vacuum leaks
Runs strong, no loss of power or rough running at idle or under load
No major components related to spark and fuel delivery have been replaced - coil pack, fuel pump, etc
Symptoms:
Starting problem 1 - The car will simply refuse to catch and start up, sometimes for as long as 10-15 seconds of cranking, after which it starts and runs normally. This happens infrequently, but has been becoming more frequent in recent months.
Starting problem 2 - The car will immediately start to fire (one or more of the cylinders will catch), but will hesitate to fully start up for about 2-3 full engine rotations, what I would describe as a rough start.
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Two weeks ago, my '05 Malibu suddenly shut off as I started up from a light. I was low on gas and assumed that was the problem. I went straight to a gas station & filled up, and it seemed like everything was ok. However, twice in the last 3 days, it has happened again (with plenty of gas in the tank)--once going uphill on a highway and once rolling along at 30 mph on a city street. The engine and traction control lights come on and the message center says "Engine disabled" or "engine power reduced". I tried driving slowly with "power reduced" but it immediately switched to "disabled" and shut off. So far, if I pull over, shut everything off, and wait for a minute, I can start it again and drive on with no problem.
My dad has an '04 Impala with a somewhat similar problem, but instead of shutting off, it won't start. Nothing happens when you turn the key. If you wait about 20 minutes, it will often start and run fine. He had the engine computer replaced and it was great for a few months, but now the problem is back. He can often tell when it's going to have an 'episode' because either the security or traction control message will come up. Is this the same issue my Malibu has? What issue does my Malibu have?
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I gave my daughter my 2007 Malibu Maxx in 2010. It had at the time around 70,000 miles. Then the problems with the cooling system antifreeze leaks. We've replaced the radiator 9/2011. Drove ok for awhile then developed a leak again spring 2012. Chevy dealer in 4/2012 says wed need a new coolant tank. Replaced that no problems until 10/2012. Leaks again then Chevy dealer says we need a new water pump. Replaced that item.
Guess what here we are in Feb of 2013 and we have another leak. Back to the dealer and they say that a radiator cap located midway down the radiator was broken apart and they replaced that. All procedures done by dealers have included a pressure check save for when the radiator was replaced. So here we are at March 1, 2013 three days after the last repair and radiator fluid is leaking from the right front of the car again. What could possibly be the problem???
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Both rear signal lights are out, so are brake lights. Driving lights work, so are high beam lights and all front turn signal lights. What should I check? I have done some research, but I could not locate the fuse or the relay flasher for my 2004 Malibu Maxx.
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I own a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT and up until recently the remote start worked great. However starting last week when I go to use it all I get is a quick flash of the brake lights and it wont start. The only thing that happened last week was I had the hood up to check the oil.
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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I have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
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I need to replace my girlfriend's starter on her 2006 Sonata 3.3 V6. Her car is having the intermittent starting thing that i noticed some others are. We've already replaced the battery and the starter relay. The relay worked for a while but the car is back to having issues intermittently again. I figured I'd replace the starter now(with a new starter solenoid on it). Also, while I'm doing this I'll check for any loose or rusty grounds.
So, I've peeked under the hood and tried to follow the battery cables to find the starter but I haven't been able to find it. Is it under something? Do I need to remove the battery?
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