Chevrolet - Mailbu :: 2006 - Brakes Pulse Briefly After Starting Engine Cold Or Hot
May 7, 2012
2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx. This just started a little while ago, before I replaced front brake pads. after I start the engine whether cold or hot, the brakes will pulse briefly when I step on them to get the car in gear. It feels like the ABS, but it only does after a fresh start, and not when braking. The car stops fine. The brake pedal is a little spongy, probably because I didn't bleed them, but the pulse was already happening so I don't think they are connected. there are no warning lights on at all. Also, it doesn't do it 100% of the time, maybe 80 to 85%.
In order to bleed I guess I need a scan tool, but the bleeding procedure is a bi-directional function which is not supported by most of the gizmos available. Know of one that might work without spends thousands?
View 17 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2001 Malibu , I took my it in to find out why my cars engine light is on. They told me I have a small exhaust leak. Is this something I need to get fixed right away? How important is it that I get it fixed?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
View 3 Replies
I usually get this sound when the engine is completely cold. I get a weird pulsating sound that's very loud, after the engine warms up a bit. It goes away completely.
View 19 Replies
My 09 Sonata LTD V6 was sometimes idling erratically (revving and slowing) after starting a cold engine. It never happened in the previous 3 winters I have owned it. I took it to the dealer for service and they said an ECM update was just released, described on the invoice as "TSB 10FL002 FOR COLD START ROUGH IDLE".
View 2 Replies
I went to a local oil change place on Tuesday morning for an oil change. Had them change the air filter (engine and cabin) at the same time. The odometer is at about 165k on my 2006 base model Prius. When the job was completed and I pushed the power button, Christmas tree. Giant red triangle of death, check engine, and the display picture with the "!" in the middle. Can't put it into gear. Engine runs briefly and cuts out. Maybe they tripped a wire when they changed the filter? Nope, all was good there. Silly little tech put it on his code reading machine to no avail.
I called the local Toyota dealership that I hate and don't use and they gave the oil change guy instructions to jump it. No dice. So I leave it in the bay and call a tow truck. Towing guy figures out how to get it into neutral and puts it on his truck to take to local hated dealership (mistake). Long day of fighting with oil change place, followed by super star service from larger dealership in Austin (60 miles away) with the service rep I always use. He diagnosed the likely problem over the phone. I didn't even let local hated dealership do the diagnostics. I put that little Prius baby on a flatbed and took her to Austin.
Well, the codes pulled were P0A0F (engine failed to start) and P3190 (poor engine power). Well, that is the magic combination along with the experience of my service rep and tech to confirm that too much oil was added. It's was about a half of a quart. Crazy, right? Well, they cleaned the throttle body, interior of intake manifold of oil residue and all is well again. The big battery was completely dead so the dealership charged it up for me.
Next morning I pick it up and big battery is charged about halfway. Not sure if they completely charged it the night before. However, by the time I got to work (maybe 5 miles), battery indicator was full (green). I had an oddity when I had a longer stop light idle later that afternoon where the battery went from 4 blue bars down to purple, but drove the 60 miles back home and today the charge seems to be fine (4-5 blue bars). I have a sneaking suspicion that there may be more issues, but for now all is well. I'm going to get the 12V battery changed soon because we're still riding on the original.
View 19 Replies
I have a 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4 which is experiencing issues on two fronts: brakes and general operation.
For the brakes, over the last couple years, we have replaced just about every part of the system, including - master cylinder - calipers - brake lines. In addition, in the last week, I worked with a local mechanic to bleed the lines and he turned the rotors as well. The result is that while the truck does stop, the pedal height is still really high and feels like there's no pressure until the pedal's nearly to the floor. I get the feeling that if I needed to stop abruptly or at a higher speed than 35mph, I wouldn't be able to. I'm not sure what needs to happen next.
As to the general operation: the first time I start the truck on any given day, it fires up and runs smoothly. If I take it across town, however, and put it in the park, it gasps, sputters, and dies. It is then very difficult to get the vehicle to start again--usually, I have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and grind the starter until the engine turns over. After that, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for 15-30 seconds at around 3000 RPM as the truck shudders and lurches, until it smooths out. Once I put it into drive or reverse, however, it dies, unless I am quick to push the accelerator again. Until recently, the truck had only been driven four times in the last two years or so. So far, I have: - replaced the air filter - added fresh gas (to the old) - added an engine treatment (Sea-Foam) Everything I have done is stuff that needs to be taken care of anyway, and I want to take care of all the little things before I take it to a dealership to have a full diagnostic run on it. I also plan to have an oil change done on it this week.
View 5 Replies
I thought I'd be free of problems having bought a new Toyota Rav4 in Jan. In June, with less than 3K miles, my husband had a (BIG) fender bender (turns out his meds made him blank out, he was driving at 10-15 mph) (and he is going on 80). Repairs cost over 3K, but I was able to drive it to the dealer. Soon after I got it back a month later, I started hearing a brief grinding noise under the accelerator, at speeds of 20-30 mph. Mostly after I took my foot off the accelerator, once or twice after I took my foot off the brake. This noise sounds like brakes grinding, appears very sporadically and briefly. I took it to the dealer and of course they could find nothing wrong, said everything checks out. They said to bring it back when it's doing the noise. Which it does maybe once a week, for a second or two. sheesh.What to do? I actually want to start all over, I do not want to drive with my ear to the gas pedal. (My husband now only drives in town!)
View 5 Replies
I have a 2000 Chevy Astro van, and I have this problem that no one seems to be able to figure out, let alone fix. Occasionally the car with have all the lights inside and outside the car start to "pulse". The needle on the voltmeter will be noted to surge from the average just above 14 mid point on the dial on the meter face to over this in a pulsing motion, in time to the light pulsing. I have replaced the distributor cap, coil wire, and the car has been with the mechanic numerous times. His diagnostic equipment does not pinpoint the cause of this problem. What to try next?
View 5 Replies
I have an 06 Chevy Aveo that has been driving me crazy the past month. If it sits for awhile (over 5 hours), it will start up no problem. So on the way to work, starts fine; after a long day at work, starts fine. But if I stop at a gas station, go to the store a couple of minutes or even sit at church for 2 hours, it will not start again unless it has been sitting for another few hours. We recently had a new battery put in. We have had the wires all cleaned. We took it to Tires Plus, who looked it over for electrical problems as well as thoroughly checked everything under the hood. Only thing they came up with was to try replacing the fuel pump. We did that. Still not wanting to start. No lights on dashboard showing anything is wrong. There is fuel in the car as well.
View 8 Replies
I currently own a 2006 Chevy Cobalt. For the past few months it had a problem that every time I get gas when I go to start the car up I have to pump the gas pedal and crank it at the same time to get it to start running. Once its running I have to either get driving pronto or sit and it park and accelerate it a little for a bit to keep the car running. If I let go of the gas pedal the car will clunk and shut off. If I drive off after a few blocks it’ll work fine and I won’t have the problem again until I put more gas in it. Occasionally when at a light or stop sign while in drive the car will clunk a little but normally stop after few seconds.
I went to AutoZone and they told me I had a pressure thing (can’t remember fully) but to replace the gas cap. Which the car tells every so often to check my gas cap. Well 4-5 gas caps later problem still there. What it could be or how to fix it, last resort is to take it to the mechanic and pay a nice bill for a fix.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2002 BMW 525i with 100k miles. Since I bought it at 30,000 miles there has been a braking problem. If I am applying the brakes and hit a bump or rough pavement, the brakes start to "pulse", they make a "rattley, clattering" kind of sound, and it feels as though they will fail to stop the car. Removing my foot from the brake for a breif moment then reapplying the brake past the bump or rough pavement stops this from happening. Most mechanics claim they can't reproduce it, but I can. At about 50K miles I decided to self diagnosis the problem as a bad sensor or "motor" for the antilocking system. I had it replaced which appeared to resolve the issue for a while. But it is now back. What this may be?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer EXT V6 Votex that hesitates to start only after I put fuel in it. It doesn't matter if I fill it up or put in a couple of gallons. It's been going on for some time now, but is starting to get worse. My fuel pump went out before it started, but I had that replaced and the problem still persists. Someone tried replacing the solenoid switch but this did nothing. When I ask, people are telling me they haven't heard of that problem before. I have been to different gas stations just to conclude it wasn't bad fuel, but still the problem is there. I have 193,xxx miles but I'm not ready to let it go anytime soon. How I can get this resolved?
View 3 Replies
1979 chevy c10.. No start.... 4.1 engine with no spark.... I have replaced everything in distributor including plugs and wire still no spark rotor is turning when engine cranks so I assume timing chain is good
I have replaced Ignition Coil, Distributor Capacitor & Terminal Block, pickup coil, Ignition Control Module, Distributor Rotor, cap, Wires
Seems like I am just wasting money on parts and still no start. Truck only has 50k for miles on it and not driven very much. Just died going down hwy with out any warning.
View 16 Replies
I have a '99 E350 van that I am feeling a light anti-lock brake pulse in the pedal when I am rolling to a slow stop under light braking. Braking doesn't seem to be affected, but it doesn't feel right. I tried locking up the brakes and didn't feel any anti-lock pulse...seems backwards.
View 1 Replies
My 2006 Ford Fusion SE V6 has trouble starting in cold weather. Once it starts, it's fine throughout the day, but once it sits a long time, like overnight, it has trouble starting in the morning. If it had a carburetor, I'd say the choke wasn't working. The dealership couldn't figure it out a few years back. I even tried a new battery and that didn't work. Is there a sensor that detects cold weather and increases fuel flow or chokes off air flow for richer starting mixture that could be failing?
View 12 Replies
Wife's 2002 model, 104,000 miles on vehicle, but recently developed a tat-tat-tat noise when first turning the key. Sounds electrical. What may be causing the noise?
View 7 Replies
1. 1 month before I change my car battery.
2. Last night, after coming from Office i.e., around 50 KM drive. I witched off the car and had my dinner, let say after a gap of at least 3 hrs, I try to restart my car again but I could not. Even I can notice that the battery is not discharged as all lights are functioning properly & even center lock is working fine.
3. Then I use another car for jump start then the immediate car started. After driving for another 25 km, I switched off the car & try to restart again but I failed.
4. Today, after a gap of almost 15 hrs, again I tried to start the car then immediately it got started without showing any difficulties.
5. Again after driving around 20 km, again I switched off the car & try to restart then its not restarting.
I am confused, what could be the problem. Sometimes, it starting when the engine is cold & sometimes it's not starting when the engine is hot.
View 9 Replies
The engine fan in my 2003 MC SS doesn't seem to be working and the car is starting to overheat. The other fan, which I think is the A/C fan seems to be working okay. I know nothing about cars and before I take this to a mechanic. I do not want to go somewhere and get totally ripped off. So it would be nice if I appear to know what I am talking about... when I take it to the mechanic.
View 2 Replies
1994 Caprice Classic (350 cid LT1)... Engine cranks very slowly, almost doesn't start, sometimes starter disengages/re-engages. 1year ago mechanic checked batty, alternator and starter, all ok. I had starter replaced as it seemed the most likely cause. Eventually got better but now is worse again. Also notice a lot of movement on the dash voltmeter needle, sometimes high, sometimes low, turn signal moves the needle. Ive spent hundreds of dollars on troubleshooting and the new starter. What could be causing this?
View 4 Replies
02 Chevy Impala with 177,000 miles has re-starting problems for last 20,000 miles. New Battery, cleaned throttle plate, new fuel pump, check engine light on (emission problem was told to me by mechanic). Whats going on?
When the car runs it runs very well...to get the car started, just wait, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes longer than an hour. All the time periodically cranking the engine...just does not start. But when it does start, it runs very well.
This problems occurs only after the car has started and is warm. Let it sit for a while then restarting the problem occurs.
View 3 Replies
