Chevrolet - Lumina :: 1995 - Speedometer Pulses With The Turn Signal - Cause?
Apr 16, 2013
I have a 1995 Chevrolet Lumina with about 175,000 miles on it. I've noticed in the past few months that the lights seem a bit dimmer, and the turn signal doesn't always work for the rear blinkers. It blinks rapidly in the front, but after a nudge to the turn signal, it slows down and begins to work in the back. Within the past couple of weeks, when the turn signal is on, it causes the speedometer indicator to pulse with the signal.
I took it in for the low lights and the signalling issue, and they said it might be the battery since it wasn't giving at a full charge. That was replaced, and the issues were still there. After that they said it would be an issue of getting into the steering column which would be a couple hundred dollars just to try and find the problem, but they couldn't guarantee that would actually find the problem.
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Two days ago, I brought my 1995 Chevy Lumina to my repair shop I've been doing business with for years...they replaced an A/C compressor, oil change and flushed the sludge. Now today, this morning, I crank it up and the steering wheel is almost impossible to turn...making it almost impossible to drive and unsafe to attempt. My plan is to call them tomorrow and have them tow it and inspect...another expense. This car has been a fabulous 2nd vehicle with 155K miles on it...I'd like to keep it, but might have to exercise other options if the cost/benefit ratio is out of whack.
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Got no heat in my 1995 Chevy Lumina passenger car with 3100 engine. Have replaced thermostat, water pump and replaced freeze plug that had a pinhole in it. Heater still blowing cold air and temp gage only moves slightly - stays in low range never reaches normal operating temp. what's causing the problem and how to fix it?
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How do I know if my 1995 Chevy Lumina has anti-lock brakes (ABS)???
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I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
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My 95 sls started having problems with Its turn signal a while ago. The dash lights show that it is on and the turn signal reminder dings at me. The lights all function properly, however at random the hazard light and the left turn signal on the dash will light up and wont stop dinging at me until I signal left. It will continue to do this to me for a random amount of time and it getting really annoying. Why this is happening?
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Turn signal lights not working on a 1995 Buick Regal. I have replaced fuse & flasher but still didn't solve problem.
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For a little over a month now, the front left turn signal has gone out at least once a week. I have been continuing to buy new bulbs for it, and it would run for a few days, then quit on me again. Just today, it happened again, I replaced the bulb, but this time it still isn't working. Ive tried clearing some of the crud off of the inside of the socket, but nothing seems to be working, and now im down a turn signal.
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My daughter recently bought a 2004 chevy malibu. she had it checked by a mechanic, who said it was a decent car for the price. the turn signal does not work when she has the brake on.
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I am having an electrical problem with my front right turn signal I have not been able to chase down.
The symptoms are when the headlights are on, either manually or automatically from the daylight sensor, the front right turn signal will not flash, and I get the double speed clicking as if there were a burned out bulb. However, when it is daylight out and the headlights are in daytime running light mode, the turn signal works fine, 95% of the time. Occasionally when the headlights are off the turn signal will not work either.
I have replaced the headlights casing and bulbs, and tried rebuilding the pig tail harness as well.
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I've got an 1984 Chevy Suburban that when I put the Left Tun Signal on, All of the signals Flash (altho the Right side is weaker). The Right Turn Signals are working OK. Brake and Tail lights are Normal Are some wires melted together someplace?I am at a loss as to where to start looking for the problem...
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Any link I can go on to see how to remove turn signal switch on 2012 chevy traverse????
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I have a 1995 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext. Cab Z71 4x4 that I've had since '97. Last year it started over-heating, the temperature stays exactly where it is supposed to when I'm running down the highway, but starts to over-heat when I slow down to make a turn (up to about 230), but cools back down at an idle. The Truck has a standard 5.7L TBI 350
Trying to remedy this problem I've changed the thermostat 4 times (with a 160, 180, and 195), changed the radiator, changed the map sensor (thinking that it might be leaning the fuel out to much), changed both temperature sensors, replaced the water pump 3 times (the 3rd time I ordered a Flowcooler waterpump from Summit), changed the instrument cluster and computer thinking it might be electrical, replaced the catalytic converter (thinking it might be restricted), I even replaced every hose on the motor, I then installed a brand-new GM 5.7L 350 crate engine but it did the same thing.
After installing the new engine I replaced the knock sensor, the O2 sensor, changed the throttle body (with one from another motor i had for my son's '94), replaced the distributor, replaced the injectors, checked and made sure there wasn't and blockage in the center intake, cut the exhaust at the catalytic converter just to make sure there was no restrictions.
I recently tried a manual temp gauge just to see if the motor was actually getting hot, which it is.
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My Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
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I have a chevrolet optra 2007 and the hazard lights won't work unless the turn signal (left or right) is switched on at the same time. Turn signals work perfectly fine.
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I have a 1995 lumina. Yesterday the oil light came on. There is plenty of oil but the light stays on. I'm thinking it is either the oil pump or the sensor. How do I determine which???
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1995 Lumina LS 3.1L w/ ~185K mi
A few weeks back, the amber ABS light would periodically illuminate and then became more frequent until it was On every time I used the car. The light only comes on after driving the car forward ~10-20ft. Recently in the past few days, the red brake light also started coming on at the exact same time as the amber ABS light. I can start up the car and idle, backup, and then as soon as I drive forward 10-20ft., both lights simultaneously illuminate, along with the sound of something that is engaging/closing/switching etc. coming from the front driver's side, maybe where the brake module is located. The sound coincides with the illumination of the lights. There is also absolutely no noticeable difference in braking.
I just changed the oil a couple days ago and the fluid level was good and appears to have not moved at all since I flushed the lines ~2.5yrs. ago. I cannot recall if I returned the pistons to the home position back then, but either way I was able to bleed all 4 lines.
What may be causing both lights to illuminate together when the car moves forward in addition to coinciding with a sort of clunking/engaging noise coming from the front driver's side?
If I have to replace the EBCM, then do I need a scan tool?
I already called Module Master and they do not rebuild any GM EBCMs built before 1999. Looks like Rock Auto has some though.
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My brother's 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 engine has been dying while braking for a stop and while reversing. Has replaced fuel filter, map sensor, throttle sensor, o2 sensors and still no change. He says he doesn't believe a tune-up is the cause either.
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I was driving to work and lost all power (during rush hour) I was able to coast to a exit. Had it towed home, when I turn the key the starter engages but nothing after that, the engine will not turn over. I checked the battery and has a full 12 volts.
I removed the belt and front plugs to see if I could manually turn the engine over but it will not budge. How can I tell if this engine is really locked up or if maybe something else is happening?
3.1 V6 engine .....
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1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
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We have a 2015 Sonata 2.4 Sport that has developed an intermittent turn signal problem. When the left turn signal is turned on, the right signal will blink. When the right signal is turned on, nothing blinks. A new symptom that recently started is sometimes neither turn signal will turn on regardless of the position of the turn signal stalk. I managed to get the car to dealer #1 while the LEFT=RIGHT & RIGHT=NOTHING issue was happening but while troubleshooting it, they ran across an inactivated aftermarket alarm system that dealer #2 that sold me the car had installed. I guess the alarm they install is so cheap, it's not even worth removing if they are unsuccessful in upselling you at the time of purchase.
Since dealer #1 would not troubleshoot any further unless the alarm was removed, I retrieved the car and took it back to the original dealer #2 I bought it from. They removed the alarm and the turn signals started working again, however, this lasted about 2 weeks before the symptoms returned. I booked an appointment at the dealer #1 to bring the car in & half way during the drive there, the turn signals started working again. With nothing to show them, I didn't drop off the car. Now the problem is back. Since it tends to come and go, I have try and time when I can drop the car off so it's happening when they get it.
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