Chevrolet - Leaks - S-10 :: 1997 - Purple Grease Spattered Around The Hubcap
Apr 5, 2011
I just got this truck and everything was fine, until i took it out on the highway. there is purple grease spattered around the hubcap. I didn't do this during the test drive. It's the driver's side front wheel. It's pouring rain and i don't have a garage, so little inspection has been done so far.
997 Chevy S10...
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What are the parts of the truck that should be greased? I'm about to do a front, transfer and rear differential fluid change..
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I recently bought a 1997 F150 4wd 5sp manual. While changing the fluids, I noticed that the front u joint on the rear drive shaft has a grease fitting. No matter how I rotate that shaft, I cannot access that fitting with my grease gun, even when fitted with a flexible rubber hose.
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No complaints about the driveability of the truck, runs great, drives/stops straight, etc.
However, when driving really slow (<3 mph), and I put the window down it sounds like I can hear what sounds like stones in a hubcap. Sound seems like its coming from wheel area, not sure where. Not very loud, have to turn radio off, put window down to hear it.
Just had tires rotated about 1000mi ago at the dealership, they checked brake pad thickness(about 50% left).
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The cold air box is a black plastic box that sits forward of the engine/valve cover. It connects via black plastic tube to the air filter box on one end and to the engine on the other. I took it off it. 'Lo and behold it was full of oil.
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I replaced the thermostat, flushed the radiator and have the same problem. it can idle just fine but it gets hot driving less than 15 minutes. There are no visible leaks.
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My 1994 Silverado 1500 has been running rough, chugging, smelling gassy and sometimes quitting while idling. We replaced the plugs and wires. This didn't actually work, but while testing it, it started to overheat. We added water and the water squirts out everywhere from the bottom of the engine. So there are 2 problems...
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I gave my daughter my 2007 Malibu Maxx in 2010. It had at the time around 70,000 miles. Then the problems with the cooling system antifreeze leaks. We've replaced the radiator 9/2011. Drove ok for awhile then developed a leak again spring 2012. Chevy dealer in 4/2012 says wed need a new coolant tank. Replaced that no problems until 10/2012. Leaks again then Chevy dealer says we need a new water pump. Replaced that item.
Guess what here we are in Feb of 2013 and we have another leak. Back to the dealer and they say that a radiator cap located midway down the radiator was broken apart and they replaced that. All procedures done by dealers have included a pressure check save for when the radiator was replaced. So here we are at March 1, 2013 three days after the last repair and radiator fluid is leaking from the right front of the car again. What could possibly be the problem???
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My Chevy Malibu is having a bit of trouble.
When I drive on inclines my reservoir leaks. It did it way more when I lived up a hill, but since I've moved to a more flat area, I barely see it.
A more serious issue I am having is with my ignition/gear shift. When I try to turn the car off it will not go to the OFF position. If I wiggle the handle, it will then go off.
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I've got an '08 Cobalt. There is a large leak in my coolant system. The plastic reservoir is empty and if I add coolant and start the engine it all gushes out of a hole in a piece of plastic on the side of the radiator. Can I drive it to the shop if I watch the engine temperature or should I have it towed? Is the engine temperature measurement affected by the lack of coolant?
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I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo that has me stumped as to why it leaks. The driver side axle seal leaks fluid only after a drive. I have replaced the axle twice and seal 6 times and it still leaks. I am stumped on this one. Unless I got a bad axle twice that the diameter of the sealing surface is too small but didn't seem like it as the seal hugs the shaft.
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I have a 1965 Chevrolet with the original 396 engine. When I purchased the car, I noticed the fuel pump was wet with fuel at the weep holes. I replaced the pump with a new one. This pump also leaked at the weep holes. I thought dirt may have been in the fuel tank and the check valves were stuck causing the leak. I installed a glass inline fuel filter before the fuel pump and installed another new pump. There is no dirt in the filter. This pump also is leaking from the weep holes. The pump only leaks when I give it full throttle and bring the car up well over 65 mph. I would like to retain the stock type of fuel pump. I'm wondering if the pump push rod is a replacement at some time and too long.
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I have a 1997 Lincoln towncar with the air suspension. After parked for overnight I found the car sagging in the rear so I thought a air bag went out so I thought I would take it in to get fixed but the next few nights nothing happen the car stayed level then the next night it went down then the next few nights it stays level.
I took it to the dealer and they told me they see nothing wrong and kept it over night and it did not go down. It is like a roll of the dice if it stays level or goes down. I sprayed the air bags and the lines to them with soap water to see if I could find any leaks but I did not see anything.
The compressor is buried so unless I know that is the problem I am not going to rip everything apart to not find a leak or is that where I should be starting. If the car is running everything stays level and no light is on. I do not want coils in the car I like the air suspension.
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While driving my 97 Saturn SW2, the car couldn't shift into a higher gear (out of 2nd). while pushing on the gas, the RPM's would go higher but not shift. Also, the 'Service Engine' light came on. I don't have a code reader. Luckily I was close to home. When it parked it, I noticed a leak under the car, in the front section of the engine. I've also noticed that the past few days when putting the vehicle into reverse, it lurches pretty hard when it catches (as in, it jerks the car back suddenly). What could be the problem(s)? Should I drive this to the mechanic or have it towed?
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01 F-150 7700 ed.
I have a 4R100 Tranny with 139K miles. It has been rebuilt. Ever since the rebuild (over 10 yrs ago), if I park the truck for a week or so or more, I will end up with a decent size puddle of trans fluid underneath the truck. I took it back to the shop that did the rebuild a couple times, but they could never find anything. It leaks enough to where my fluid level drops enough to cause the transmission to slip in a U-turn because the pickup tube becomes uncovered. I have a couple theories, but am wanting to hear from the collective.
Theory #1 When I park it on my slightly sloped driveway I don't regularly use the parking brake, so it rests on the gears, which eventually forces fluid out an overflow or breather tube.
Theory #2 (a very thin one) due to pressure changes associated with the weather, fluid is somehow siphoned out a breather tube due to some blockage internally in the tranny to where it's not equalizing with the outside air and has a high pressure within... ( i kinda laugh at myself for this one, but I am at a loss over the source of this)
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Question. I have never used propane to find vacuum leaks. I always use starter fluid. I understand propane is better but how nuch do you use? Low volume, or a lot of propane. I just don't want to kill myself.
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I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
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I have an 02 extended cab F150 and whenever it rains the rear window leaks (it doesnt have a slider, it's solid) and the half doors leak too... i sealed the back window with caulk to try and fix it and it worked for about 2 storms and then it started to leak again. The side doors leak at the seam where they meet the front doors... Should i order new seals for the windows? or is there a simpler way to do it that isnt as expensive..
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I've had a 0401 code on my truck for the last two years. I've replaced the EGR valve and the dpfe sensor a couple of times, with fomoco parts. Ive also cleaned out the egr tube that comes off the exhaust manifold. In this time I also discovered a couple of vacuum leaks and replaced those. I changed the pcv valve, tried running 93 octane gas, and had a mechanic friend run a special smoke through the vacuum lines to find more leaks. Also put a brand new gas cap. I have an obd computer and cleared the code repeatedly but the light always returns.
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1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L. So I've replaced my thermostat thinking that would fix the coolant vanishing problem, turns out it did not. Make tank became dry once again and my temp gauge keeps going back and forth from cold to hot.
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so new motor new intake , rear passenger side decides to leak when roughly about 10 degrese or lower and being -13 yesterday and-18 this morning.
last year it did this n i put a nother hose clamp on that rear tube and just happened to stop . n now back but the ting is that its not wet at all at the hose but at top of head bottom intake hmm . this is all just during the initial start of truck stops even before truck really gets warm
if i tke it off n its messed up i hope its warrentied even though i painted it. if fine i guess add some gasket maker ?
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