Chevrolet - Hhr :: Vent And Hot / Cool Controls Do Not Respond When Turned On
Jul 7, 2014
My 2010 HHR vent and hot/cool controls do not respond when turned. Only hot air will blow out the dash vents. This happened last summer, but returned to normal until now. How to repair this? AC light and compressor come on, but still only HOT air comes out.
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Was on my way to get an oil change at my buddies shop. Started hearing a clicking sound. My climate controls no longer will respond. the Auto button is lit up but I can't turn the air off. I get hot air from the vents. When the clicking does stop the system goes back to working order. My friend checked it out and says the clicking is from the blend door motor.
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I have a 2008 Elantra with 78k miles on it. Yesterday, to my dismay, I couldn't get any hot air out of my vent. I have never once had an issue with the hot or cold airflow before.
My coolant level is good and the temperature gauge is a-ok. The air coming in was cold yesterday and cool today; it appears it's just outdoor air temperature (as opposed to straight up cold) that I'm getting.
I believe my radiator is also overdue to get flushed...not sure whether or not that has anything to do w/this.
Is this likely the blend door actuator? I'm no car guy but I've been reading a little. Also....looks like this part might be 40-50. How much do you think I should be paying for labor if this is fixed?
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I have only 3 days with my new Treg and I cannot make the A/C to stop blowing cool air off the upper vent into the windshield. So the cold air makes condensate water on the outside and I have to use the wipers to wipre it out, appearing again in few seconds. The A/C settings are either AUTO at 70F or manual and making sure the air is directed to the front.
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I purchased a brand new 2013 Prius 2 last October and I'm loving it so far.
However, I notice that even if it's slightly warm outside, and I have my cabin temp set at a higher temperature than outside, the vent blows cooler air.
For example, the other day it was 65F outside. Since it was warmer than usual, I turned down the cabin temperature to 65F as well. It was nice and cool, but a little TOO cold. So I turned it up to 70F. It was still blowing cold air. I had to turn it up to 72F before it was warm enough to feel comfortable.
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2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
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I drive a 1993 Chevrolet 1500 v6, 2wd. I have changed every part I can think of related to the fuel system. When I try to accelerate, the engine hesitates, it gets louder, and my truck will jerk. Sometimes, however, it is responsive. Often times, it will be responsive for a few minutes and start to decelerate.
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New owner for the passat 2003 gls passat 1.8T. I turned on the AC and its not blowing cool air. Looking for DIY to fix my AC problem.
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I have observed if I turn my seat's cooler on, it will cool "slightly" for few minutes (~15min) but then it will heat to a point as if I am turning the heating mode not the cooling mode.. Or is there a right way to use this feature such as I must turn it on minutes before I sit ..
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The A/C is not working in my 2002 S-10. Currently the compressor runs, but the air is not getting cool. I tried adding freon, but it has not worked. The low side pressure is about 50 psi, and would drop a few pounds when the compressor is started, but it drops no further. I have not noticed the compressor cycling while it is on. The can of refrigerant is not empty, but the system does not seem to be taking any more from that can.
Do I just need to add some more coolant from a fresh can, or is something else at work here. Also, probably unrelated, when down shifting it is fairly common for the air to switch from blowing up front to blowing on the defrost.
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I have a 2007 Prius. I turned on the AC for the first time this spring last week and the air blowing out of the vent was ambient temperature. When I looked through the sight glass with the AC running, it looks like there's fluid in there, but it's not moving anywhere and the evaporator pipe did not feel cool. I also replaced the 12 V battery a few months ago, with an optima yellow top battery.
What's wrong with the AC? Will a recharge do it fix this, or did I mess something up with the battery. There were a lot of warnings about "resetting" the system after you have the 12V out, but I didn't seem to have any problems that were described as symptomatic of needing a reset.
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I had the A/C on with the outside air circulation on and i saw some smoke from the center passenger vent. is this normal? once i switched to inside air circulation the smoke went away.
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My air conditioner blows cool air (not cold) when I am driving, and when I am stopped, it is warm air. I had to replace the sensor last year. Could it be that again, or something else? Chevy Tahoe 2003 ..
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My wife has a 2008 Chevy Impala with over 80,000 miles. When the weather is cold, the heater will blow cool air while in Park, even with the car warmed up. Then, once it is put in Drive, the heater begins to blow hot air again. Again, all of this time the engine temp gauge is in the middle position.
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I just gave my daughter a 97 Aurora for Christmas as her first car. The car is showing signs of electrical problems and I can't locate the problem. When the headlights are turned on manually or are enabled by the twilight sentinel the driver seat controls stop functioning and there is a clicking noise located directly over the instrument display. If the lights or twilight sentinel are turned off the seat controls work except for being able to move the seat forward. The clicking sound that exists with the lights on will stop momentarily if the seat control swithes are manipulated. The seat will not move but the clicking ceases for 30 seconds and returns. Are the headlights and power seat controlled by the same relay, wiring or module? How can I fix this problem? This Christmas gift is looking like a lemon.
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So I can't figure out what is causing my a/c to randomly stop working,it's not leaking or freezing up and it's not the clutch or fuse and so on. What it does is basically it transitions from cool humidity free air to warmer humid air It's been in two different shops and produces no error messages either,however when it does it if you turn the car off and start it again it starts working fine. I've been going crazy trying to figure out what it is!
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Found a simple fix for unlit radio control buttons, cd player opening and center display buttons while the parking/headlight switch is turned on. As it turns out, if the wire connector directly behind the dimmer switch wheel located to the left of the steering wheel is accidentally disconnected, you will not have any backlight for your in dash cd player opening,radio control buttons or your emergency hazard flasher button.
The simple fix is to first remove the left side silver/gray plastic vent cover which is located directly to the left of your dimmer control knob. Place one hand on the top of the vent cover and the second hand at the bottom the vent cover and firmly pull directly out. Second step is to pull towards you the miniature dash panel that the dimmer switch wheel is mounted to.
The arrow tip guide on the miniature dash panel will pull away from 2 guide slots mounted to the main dash panel. Third step is to reconnect the disconnected white male plug to the back of the dimmer switch wheel's female connector. Last step is to push back the miniature dimmer switch wheel's dash panel until it snaps back in place, then snap back in place the silver/gray plastic vent cover until it clicks back in place.
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When my hvac controls are turned to hot, I'm getting only luke warm air. When moved over to cold it feels like the a/c is on...granted it is 21 degrees here. What I've done so far:
1. Flushed the coolant system at the local COOP TBA
2. Flushed heater core-Both heater hoses are hot to the touch as well as the heater core itself. The hoses are within 10 degrees of each other tested by an infrared temp gauge.
3. Verified the blend door actuator is moving. I can see it spin while attached to the box as well as I pulled it out and plugged it in it will move from hot to cold.
4. Smacked the #$%! out of the blend door box.
The fan still functions as it should from low to high. The truck also gets up to operating temp as usual.
Is it possible the actuator is still faulty even though it moves and not going all the way to the heat side? I considered picking up a replacement but I hate to start throwing parts at it.
Did the blend door give up? The snow is here and I need the heat for those 4am waterfowl hunting trips.
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I have a 1986 Monte Carlo SS with 305 HO engine. Recently when driving along suddenly I have hot air blowing out of the vents, then in a few minutes it goes back to the cool air. This happens whether it is set to vent or air conditioner. How can I fix it??
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2000 Blazer LS 4X4. 186k miles. It would seem that my heater control will only work for defrost and face-vent operation. (Just happened yesterday) When I move the controller from the off position to defrost, I can hear the system moving the flaps into position. But it no longer moves for defrost/floor or just floor control. Would changing the heater control solve this problem, or could it be a bad vacuum line?
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For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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