Chevrolet - Equinox :: Light Squeak From Front End Suspension
Jun 23, 2016
A few weeks back I heard a light squeak after going over the random speed bump from my driver side wheel. My mechanic didn't really think much of it at the time. It has gradually become more frequent, almost every time I drive now sometimes loud sometimes quiet. I am wondering if it is my control arm, what it could be? What would be the general price tag to get something like that fixed? I drive a 2009 Chevy Equinox.
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I bought a 2012 certified preowned Chevy Equinox with 50,000 miles. After I drove it for 3,000 miles I had to take it to the dealer due to an engine noise which turned out to be a low oil level. They changed the oil and then told me that it's normal for these engines to burn a lot of oil. I drove it for 2,000 miles after the oil change and the oil level was low again. I took it back to the dealer and they topped off the oil and told me to come back after 1000 miles for an oil consumption test.I don't know much about cars but burning through that much oil does not seem normal to me.My question is, how can I make the dealer take responsibility for this car oil issues while it is still under warranty?Is it normal for these engines to consume high amounts of oil and for me to keep replacing about 3 quarts every 3,000 miles?
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I have a 2005 Chevy Equinox that has developed an odd issue. For about a month, after a good rain, I have a puddle of water in the floor carpet of the front passenger side - while parked. It develops from the center of the car to about the middle of the floor below the seat. So since that is the case I don't think the side window is leaking but I have looked for signs of water coming in. Nothing. The windshield was replaced about 5 years ago but again, no signs that water is coming in from there either. It can't be from the bottom of the car, right? I mean it happens while it is parked, so that doesn't make sense.
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08 equinox. Awd. Was parked outside is -5f temps. Got warning light for awd system at initial start. Drove 1/2 mi to gas station. Shut off and restart and no light. Maybe temp related? Read manual and it say owner may get a warning if awd systems experiences overheating issues? What the heck? What exactly did GM manual writer try to mean with that statement? I know the awd system is wimpy at best and I assume it is mostly some type of viscous/liquid clutch setup for rear power transmission? I do not have hitch and assume the warning is to discourage ANY heavy duty use of this suv?
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I have a 2006 equinox with 74000 miles that consumes up to 2+ quarts of oil every 2000 to 3000 miles between oil changes and the water in the fluid section of the car drops about one gallon of water thus causing the car to over heat what could be the problem. The engine light always comes on when i have more or less then 1/2 a tank of gas. The manual said this could be the gas cap that is producing the problem and is there a solution.
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Our 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?
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I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and recently I noticed a gas smell...I saw Chevy had a special policy to replace the fuel pump module, so I took it to the dealership hoping that would be the problem. Fortunately it was, and they replaced it for free. I got my car back Thursday afternoon, drove it Friday, and it sat yesterday without being driven. This morning I drove to the grocery store, and on the way home my check engine light came on. I have an ODBII scanner, so I plugged it in and got this code:
P0455: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow)
So I was wondering: (1) what is the cause and/or solution to this problem, and (2) is it possible the dealership caused this problem when they replaced my fuel pump module?
It seems awfully coincidental not to be related to the repair, since it is a fuel system problem, but I don't know enough about cars to be sure...
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I recently picked up a new 2015 Lexus IS 250, AWD with the F Sports package. I'm about to hit 3K miles on the car, and love it so far - only issue is I noticed recently that the front suspension seems to make a squeak when going over bumps at lower speeds (i.e. a parking lot, etc).
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I have an 07 GS350 RWD, 132K miles.
Symptoms: Very audible squeak from suspension front and rear (not as bad in the rear) when going over bumps. It happens mostly on the driver side. I can replicate the squeak when I push down on the car in the front. It only happens when the weather is warm, lately when it's been 60 degrees or less, it doesn't make any noise really.
Another squeak I'm hearing is when I get in the car first thing after it's been sitting a while, there's a squeak that's coming from mid-body area (I think), and happens when I turn right, transferring weight to the driver side.
I've searched and saw numerous threads but haven't really been able to get a clear idea of what may be causing this. I did have someone lube the control arm bushing (at least I think we did) and the noise did not go away. Car feels smooth, but I wouldn't rule out shocks as a culprit. I'm trying to get ideas and narrow things down so I can start hunting for it when I have free time.
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My front suspension squeaks very loudly when going over even the slightest of bumps. I've looked at similar threads and have noticed some people replace the entire control arm, some just replace control arm bushings, others change the strut mounts/bearings.
Am I better off replacing all 3 components (control arms, bushings, and strut mounts/bearings) or just doing CA bushings and/or strut mounts? Do control arms normally need to be replaced? Car has 90K miles, and is daily driven year around during the cold Minnesota winter. My knowledge of suspension components is limited.
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My new truck has developed a squeak in the front suspension every time you go over little dips and bumps in the road.Which is all the time.
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I'm a new Mk4 R32 owner in the Portland area and my driver's front suspension developed a nasty squeak on the long drive home after buying the car. When you hit a pothole or any sort of bump it makes a nasty "clink" sound under compression/rebound. It's only on the driver's side front, and it seems to be a bushing/bearing or upper mount in the car when I got it up on Matrix Integrated's lift.
Also - the driver's front spring is squeaking since the powder coating flaked off after all the miles.
Thinking of buying a cheap set of coil overs to remedy this and refresh some of the more worn suspension items. Car drives just fine too.
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Ok so I replaced my upper strut mount and my struts in the front along with the shocks in the rear.......... the squeak is still present when i go over a rougher bump and it is cold ..................SO i went on hma service and saw this...................
Symptom "Squeak or grunt-noise from the front suspension, occurs more in cold ambient temperatures-more noticeable over rough roads or when turning"
Suspect Area "Front stabilizer bar"
Remedy "Under these conditions, the noise is acceptable."
Wow so not acceptable i am going to try and lubricate this piece... Will report back
[URL] ....
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For some months, I've heard squeaking noise from passenger side suspension. Sound like it's from shock & spring on bump road.
This video sound is very similar : Squeaking Noise, Front Driver Side - YouTube ...
I looked at my suspension. and found rubber bushing is broken. Driver's side bushing is normal.
Is this noise related to the broken bushing?
Is it easy to replace the rubber by myself?
A guy said ATP AT-205 reseal will fix this noise in Youtube video. Is it true?
How To Fix Squeaks In Your Car - YouTube ....
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We've noticed that when we have the inside air circulation on, we're still getting exhaust fumes from outside the vehicle and other "smells", too. I've never had this problem before and the dealership (and manufacturer) say that it isn't air tight and we would still get outside odors coming in. I don't accept this answer. We've never had this problem on any other vehicle we've driven. My husband has heart issues and when exhaust fumes still enter the car, it effects his heart. The only way to stop odors from entering the vehicle is to turn off the fan - but that creates other issues (especially with fogging up windows, etc). So, how do we remedy this? We've taken it in for maintenance, and they say everything is "shutting/securing" as it's supposed to be. There's no leak anywhere else. We don't accept this answer (and even one of the service techs say it shouldn't do that, but when they're told by the manufacturer that's what we have to tell the customer, that's what we have to do). My husband hates to ride in the Equinox now due to this problem. We've read up on the "Lemon Law" and may have to enforce it.
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It's a 2007 Chevy Equinox. My brake lights and reverse lights do not come on, but all other lights do. Is this a serious problem?
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How to change the transmission oil and filter on a 2005 Chevrolet Equinox?
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I have a 2007 Chevy Equinox with 104,500 mi. For the past 20,000 miles (2-1/2 yrs.) or so the transmission hesitates when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When this happens, the engine revs and the wheels lose power for a second or two, and then the shift completes.It happens anywhere from once or twice a week, to once a month.It never produces a "Check Engine Light" nor a "Code" when scoped the same day.It is more of a nuisance, although doing it while pulling into traffic could cause a nasty safety issue.I have had it checked by independent mechanics and a local Chevy Dealership and nobody has an answer.
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We have an 06 Equinox, and lately the low beams have been working intermittently. Also, I don't think the running lights are working either. Low beams don't work on auto or in the "on" position. The high beams do work. We took it to the dealership yesterday and they said we had a bad resistor and replaced it for $270. Tonight my wife tried to drive home after dark and no headlights. She has to take this vehicle on a business trip soon.
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We're on our third mechanic with no solution to our problem. My 2007 Chevy Equinox (93,000 miles) has performed flawlessly since I bought it new. Over the last 2 years, the brake light has come on a couple of times. Each time the brakes were reviewed by different mechanics who found nothing wrong other than the brake fluid being 1/4 cup low. Two bottle or less of 3 dot fluid were used to top of the brake fluid over 2 years. Two weeks ago we purchased 2 new tires and a REAR brake job from SHOP ONE, a tire/brake dealer.
The brake job was only because the car was nearing 100,000 miles and it seemed like a good idea. Immediately after the job, the brakes were extremely tight, barely giving to foot pressure. At freeway speeds one tire wobbled terribly, which SHOP ONE explained as the tire counterweight having fallen. SHOP ONE replaced the counterweight and pronounced the car fixed. Within 2 days, while on the freeway, the car started throbbing again, the brake stiffness was worse and the acceleration began to fail.
We towed the car to SHOP TWO, a very capable mechanic we've known for awhile. Computer codes show no problem with transmission or ABS or anything else. He said the problem was likely the master cylinder and booster, and took the following actions: Replaced FRONT brakes, master cylinder (OEM), booster (OEM), and rotors. The removed booster had more than a quart of liquid in it. He drove the car back and forth to his home to check performance with no problems.
When I drove the car back to my office the next day, the brakes seized up again, and I had to floor the accelerator to keep the car from dying. The car was towed back to SHOP TWO. The mechanic was able to replicate the problem but can't figure out what's causing it. There are and have been no signs of leaks. After seizing up. the car can be driven after 10 minutes of cool down.
The car is now at SHOP THREE, the dealer. Their computer diagnosis shows nothing wrong, but they recommend replacing the new master cylinder and booster with ANOTHER NEW master cylinder and rotor....
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I purchased a new battery for my 2008 Chevy Equinox and have it installed. After they installed it, my car radio would not turn on at all. The clock on the radio interface had been reset to 12:00 when they disconnected the battery, but I could not reset the clock to the appropriate time after installation. After doing some research, I came up with two scenarios to look into:
-the fuse was damaged;
-or, the removal of the battery triggered a security lock down on the car radio that requires a code to be inputted to make it operable again.
I checked the fuse, and it worked fine. I looked up the security lockdown item in the manual, and it explicitly noted that if this were to be the case, the interface would clearly indicate the word "LOCKED." The interface does not indicate this. The only thing the interface indicates is the time, which is incorrect.
Are there any hypotheses as to why my car radio is now inoperable? And are there any suggested solutions for resolving this?
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