Chevrolet - Equinox :: 2009 - Key Sporadically Getting Stuck In AUX Position When Attempting To Turn Engine Off
Apr 14, 2015
I have a 2009 Chevy Equinox with a little over 50,000 miles. About a year ago the key began sporadically getting stuck in the AUX position when I attempt to turn the engine off (no problems when starting engine). The dealer installed a new ignition cylinder (which cost me $1,000) but the problem continues. When the key sticks I re-start, re-shift and re-brake and I can remove the key and turn off the engine on the first or second try. The dealer suggested that I take my foot off the brake when I remove the key but I usually have to FLOOR the brake to remove the key.
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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A few weeks ago, I went out to my car & the remote opener would not work. So I opened the door with the key. I went to start the car & it would not start. I got absolutely nothing. I also then could not get the key back out of the ignition. It would not even turn back to the original position. My father get the car started with a jump, but since then my car radio does not work. I also do not hear any noise when using the turn signals. They work, but no "blinking" sound. I tried to research this thinking maybe you have to "reset" the radio after a power "outage" but have been unable to find anything on how to do this. My husband recently passed away and I'm feeling a little lost when it comes to issues with my car. Where I can find some info?
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I have checked the fuses for the Hazard and the Turn Signals. Both look fine. I tried replacing the turn signal flasher (which was a task in itself). After all of this it is still not working. What else could it be? Simple short?
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After replacing the battery and starter...as well as replacing the alternator (bench tested good), I'm still greeted with one 'thud' when attempting to turn the engine over. The battery light is one in the dash. I've been through this scenario with more than a couple vehicles that haven't started in the past. I do the normal check the battery, wires, alternator, fuses, and starter. Somewhere along that line...it always fixes the issue. Not so here. I have to admit that I'm at a loss at the moment.
2001 F-150 5.4L
115k
Replaced starter
Replaced batter
Alternator bench tested good
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I have a 2006 equinox with 74000 miles that consumes up to 2+ quarts of oil every 2000 to 3000 miles between oil changes and the water in the fluid section of the car drops about one gallon of water thus causing the car to over heat what could be the problem. The engine light always comes on when i have more or less then 1/2 a tank of gas. The manual said this could be the gas cap that is producing the problem and is there a solution.
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My Equinox had problems from when I bought it used at 23K miles. The evap hose recall was installed wrong and broke. The traction control went out and shut down my car in mid-drive (twice). Computer modules went bad. Timing chain had to be replaced. Then is was using 3 or more quarts of oil before reaching 3000 miles after an oil change, with no puddles on the ground. I received a letter from GM after it reached 120k miles, but the dealership was good enough to replace the whole engine anyway due to "problems" with this year and model. The catalytic coverters were bad at the time but not replaced though the "disappearing oil" from the bad engine seems to have caused that. What can I do to get this resolved without having to spend $1500-$2000 of my own money, that I don't have right now? (oh, one wheel hub assembly has just gone bad too)
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I bought a 2012 certified preowned Chevy Equinox with 50,000 miles. After I drove it for 3,000 miles I had to take it to the dealer due to an engine noise which turned out to be a low oil level. They changed the oil and then told me that it's normal for these engines to burn a lot of oil. I drove it for 2,000 miles after the oil change and the oil level was low again. I took it back to the dealer and they topped off the oil and told me to come back after 1000 miles for an oil consumption test.I don't know much about cars but burning through that much oil does not seem normal to me.My question is, how can I make the dealer take responsibility for this car oil issues while it is still under warranty?Is it normal for these engines to consume high amounts of oil and for me to keep replacing about 3 quarts every 3,000 miles?
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Recently I've been having some intermittent trouble starting my 2008 Chevy Equinox LS. The problem only occurs when I leave my daughter's daycare after dropping her off in the morning...so it's the second start of the day, after about a 5 minute drive. All other times the car starts fine. Here's a rundown of the symptoms:
-May 9th or 10th: I tried starting the car (at the daycare) and the engine made sort of a buzzer sound, and didn't start. Then, after a few seconds, I tried it again and it started right up.
-May 11th: I did some interstate driving (about a 1.5 hour trip each way). On the trip up, after about an hour or so, I received the following warnings: "Service Traction Control" and "Service Stabilitrack." After I turned off the car the warnings have never come back on (don't know if this is related to the starting problem, but figured I would mention it).
-May 18th: while sitting at a stoplight, the car was idling roughly - I had to really hold down the brake to prevent the car from lurching forward, and the RPMs were going between about 800 and 1500...haven't noticed any rough idling since, though.
-May 20-24 & 27-29: Again, when leaving the daycare in the morning, when I try to start the car, it sounds like a machine gun. It usually won't start the first time, but will the second time after still making that noise. Attached is a video of this. The odd thing, though, is that it hasn't done it the last two times I've left the daycare (I doubt the problem just fixed itself).
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Our 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?
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I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and recently I noticed a gas smell...I saw Chevy had a special policy to replace the fuel pump module, so I took it to the dealership hoping that would be the problem. Fortunately it was, and they replaced it for free. I got my car back Thursday afternoon, drove it Friday, and it sat yesterday without being driven. This morning I drove to the grocery store, and on the way home my check engine light came on. I have an ODBII scanner, so I plugged it in and got this code:
P0455: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow)
So I was wondering: (1) what is the cause and/or solution to this problem, and (2) is it possible the dealership caused this problem when they replaced my fuel pump module?
It seems awfully coincidental not to be related to the repair, since it is a fuel system problem, but I don't know enough about cars to be sure...
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A few weeks ago, my 1993 S-10 began showing the service engine light sporadically over a couple of weeks. Then, while I was stopped and idling at a red light, the engine revved up really high suddenly for no reason. A few days later, as the automatic shifted from 2nd to 3rd it jerked a little, as if I'd tapped the brakes or something.Around the time all this was going on, I heard something on Car Talk about the radiator and transmission being linked somehow. I checked my radiator, and sure enough the coolant was very cloudy and kinda sandy. I flushed the coolant and refilled and all the weird little transmission quirks seemed to vanish after that. Until yesterday, when the symptoms started appearing again.
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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Year: 1999Make: Chevrolet
Model: Silverado 1500 LS
Issue: Bad Transfer Case
Late model 99 Chevrolet Sliverado 4x4 with push button transfer case. At the end of last winter the transfer case began a grinding-noise when attempting to go from 2H to 4H.
I have a great mechanic who has proven both his skill and honesty to me a few times now. I took the truck in for diagnosis. His hope was that the electronic transfer may be faulty but unfortunately found metal shavings when he went to check the lubricant in the transfer case.
Diagnosis: Bad Transfer Case - Replacement necessary.
Mechanic has recommended a salvaged transfer case from reputable salvage dealer.
I have sourced a rebuilt transfer case with manufacturer warranties from a "major parts chain" for approximately 1/3 more cost.
My debate: The truck (while very late model), has a rebuilt engine that has less than 50k miles on the rebuild. I have expectations that I will continue to drive and maintain this truck for a very long time.
Although I am always aligned with less cost, my first response is that the rebuild from "major parts chain" is warrantied and far less likely to require a replacement in the remaining life of the vehicle.
However I am also uncertain how to evaluate the existing transmission. Presumably it has >100k. Is there a risk in pairing an OEM rebuilt transfer case with a transmission this old?
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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We've noticed that when we have the inside air circulation on, we're still getting exhaust fumes from outside the vehicle and other "smells", too. I've never had this problem before and the dealership (and manufacturer) say that it isn't air tight and we would still get outside odors coming in. I don't accept this answer. We've never had this problem on any other vehicle we've driven. My husband has heart issues and when exhaust fumes still enter the car, it effects his heart. The only way to stop odors from entering the vehicle is to turn off the fan - but that creates other issues (especially with fogging up windows, etc). So, how do we remedy this? We've taken it in for maintenance, and they say everything is "shutting/securing" as it's supposed to be. There's no leak anywhere else. We don't accept this answer (and even one of the service techs say it shouldn't do that, but when they're told by the manufacturer that's what we have to tell the customer, that's what we have to do). My husband hates to ride in the Equinox now due to this problem. We've read up on the "Lemon Law" and may have to enforce it.
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08 equinox. Awd. Was parked outside is -5f temps. Got warning light for awd system at initial start. Drove 1/2 mi to gas station. Shut off and restart and no light. Maybe temp related? Read manual and it say owner may get a warning if awd systems experiences overheating issues? What the heck? What exactly did GM manual writer try to mean with that statement? I know the awd system is wimpy at best and I assume it is mostly some type of viscous/liquid clutch setup for rear power transmission? I do not have hitch and assume the warning is to discourage ANY heavy duty use of this suv?
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It's a 2007 Chevy Equinox. My brake lights and reverse lights do not come on, but all other lights do. Is this a serious problem?
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How to change the transmission oil and filter on a 2005 Chevrolet Equinox?
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I have a 2007 Chevy Equinox with 104,500 mi. For the past 20,000 miles (2-1/2 yrs.) or so the transmission hesitates when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When this happens, the engine revs and the wheels lose power for a second or two, and then the shift completes.It happens anywhere from once or twice a week, to once a month.It never produces a "Check Engine Light" nor a "Code" when scoped the same day.It is more of a nuisance, although doing it while pulling into traffic could cause a nasty safety issue.I have had it checked by independent mechanics and a local Chevy Dealership and nobody has an answer.
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We have an 06 Equinox, and lately the low beams have been working intermittently. Also, I don't think the running lights are working either. Low beams don't work on auto or in the "on" position. The high beams do work. We took it to the dealership yesterday and they said we had a bad resistor and replaced it for $270. Tonight my wife tried to drive home after dark and no headlights. She has to take this vehicle on a business trip soon.
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