The engine light came on so I took it to a mechanic to get it checked. I was told that the PCV valve was bad. They told me that the valve needs changed and the valve cover gasket needs changed. Does this sound correct for a PCV valve?
View 13 RepliesI am a member of the 'engine off at red light' club, as I have found it to conseve significant gasoline in my town. My question has to do with actions prior to restarting the engine.
Years ago, when cars had distributors containing breaker points, it as generally recomended NOT to turn the key ON for an extended period prior to starting the engine. The given rational was that such action could cause the points to burn and pit.
Today, most cars have individual igniters for each plug, and the points in a distributor are history. Is there any danger to turning the ignition ON for a period prior to starting (or restarting) the engine? This action minimizes the 'time to start and get moving' away from a traffic light recently turned green.
We just bought our 2012 Chevy Cruze in April (it was a rental return) and in the last couple of weeks the (computerized) radio has started to go berzerk. It doesn't do it all the time -- which is why the dealership hasn't caught it yet -- but when it does, it keeps rebooting itself in the manner of this other 2012. Will the car suddenly die on us without warning? We're going to make the dealership take it back if they can't find the cause and fix it.
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I have a 2014 cruze, and when I press down the brake there is a loudish noise that sounds like air blowing out that I hear coming from the outside of my car. When this happens, my brake pedal also pushes closer to the floor. I noticed this maybe 1 month after I purchased, so I'm not sure if this is standard or something I should be concerned about.
View 4 RepliesI have a new 2012 Chevy Cruze with 10,000 miles on it. Chevy has issued service bulletins citing a problem that they can't seem to diagnose or repair (yet) and my car has the problem. They tell me their engineers are working on it. After the car is a little warm, when I apply the break there is a loud squeaking or whirring noise which pulsates at the speed of the tires (in other words, as I slow down, the intervals between each sound gets longer and longer). I suspect it is coming from the back. First they thought it was sticking calipers until they realized that I have drum brakes on the rear. It is loud enough that the only way no to hear this grating noise is to blast the radio.
View 2 RepliesBrand new. On start up when first accelerating I hear a weird bottoming out kind of scrapping noise and a tiny hitch in accelerating. Only happens once once after start up. Maybe 50% of the time this will happen on start up. What this may be?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2012 Cruze with a manual transmission. I have 43000 miles. When I down shift into 2nd gear I get a whining noise from under the car. I can shift it with no issues and no noise but when down shifting or turning in 2nd gear it whines.
View 19 RepliesWill a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo engine wear out / break down / fail sooner than a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L engine ( w/o the turbo ) ? Both being automatic transmissions. Driven by the same person. What is the gas mileage difference between the same two ?
View 17 RepliesOur 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?
So for the past week or so, I've been having problems with my cooling system. (May or may not be related to my air valve stuck open code, just thought I'd mention it.) First thing that drew my attention to the problem was smoke (or steam) coming from under the hood, I let the car cool off, and drove home. During this time I also noticed the heat stopped working. I went to get some coolant in another car and filled it up. Smoke went away, and heat started working again.
Later the same day I checked the reservoir and it looked low so I figured the radiator sucked all the coolant up, so I refilled the resivoir tank. I spilled a nice amount when doing that, and the steam came back. It cooled down again and no more steam, figured it burnt off. The next few mornings on my first drive of the day ONLY, I saw steam. Thought it was the condensation mixing with the leftover coolant that I spilled since it didn't happen at all until the next morning.
Today was the first time it started steaming at night, and the heat stopped working again, even though the reservoir level was mostly full. I let the car cool down, and then I added more coolant and the heat started working again, no more steam either. Looked under the hood once I got home, abt a 20 min drive, resivoir was nearly empty even though car was still warm. No visible leaks on the smaller reservoir hose but there are puddles under the hood.
I've read it could be a leak of course, but also the Cap could be preventing the right pressure to suck fluid back in radiator after expanding into the surge tank, or something causing the tank to boil over....
Car is a 2013 Chevy Sonic with 68,000 miles. Coolant has never been drained/refilled since I bought the car new in 2013.
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My V6 4Motion Passat has a CEL for an N80 valve... tried cleaning, didn't do anything. But its only getting 400-430 kms to the tank, even for winter that's pretty bad for 95% highway driving.
Could that cause bad fuel mileage?
Removing the black cap on the EGR valve and accessing the shaft inside? I remove it but now when I'm fitting it back it doesn't seat properly and it pushes the shaft slightly in and the car rattle like hell, what I'm missing?
View 7 RepliesJust have a quick question. Where exactly is the pcv valve on our R32s? My R is starting to burn oil and that's the only thing that I can think of is causing it. Looking for a pic of current pcv valve on the car so I can replace mine.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1994 Corolla, and it's at 107,000 miles now.Recently it stalled on the freeway, and I had to put in $600 to replace the distributor. That's what they told me that it needed at Firestone.They also told me that the gasket valve cap is leaking and that the sync belts are worn out and may stall it again any time soon. I don't currently have the $ to fix those two issues, so I only paid for the distributor.
I have no knowledge of automotive maintenance, and so can't verify that the information is correct.I noticed that the car shakes much more now, but it could be just my being more sensitive and paranoid.Today, I started driving to work, but noticed that when I am stopped at a red light, the break pedal sends a strange vibration occasionally.I don't know what could be causing this, but I decided not to risk it and just return home.I am now facing a dilemma. I can either go and repair the gasket valve cap and the sync belts for another $300 or so after I get the next paycheck, or I can look for a replacement car to buy. I am not sure I can afford even a used vehicle now.
Where is the PCV valve located? 2011 SE L4 2.5L?
View 8 RepliesI need to put a check valve into the vacuum line that runs to the gas tank. I know that this line is somewhere in the rear passenger side of the engine compartment, but there's so many lines there that I find myself confused when I look at it.
View 1 RepliesWhere is this diverter valve located at ? Is it under the car?
View 10 RepliesI have a sneaking suspicion my PCV valve is out, having never had this happen before it is merely an area i want to check off if it happens not to be (although I'm about 98% sure it is).
I have an 06 2.0T and yessss i know i could take it to the dealer and all that good stuff, but i like messing around w. these issues myself to build some confidence w. the motor.
Symptoms include:
V8 style gas mileage (about 21-23 if i'm lucky)
No pep in its step
Abnormal idle and when switched into Neutral idle gets smooth, yet RPMs begin to shudder some
No CEL
Mazda Millenia 1996 numbers coming up are:
301 - saying it's misfiring piston #1 easy fix but this has happened twice in a year 1/2 any reason why this would keep happening?
400 & 402 -but the EGR Valve looks good to my mechanic & the tube or pipe (?) to it is clean too. What else could be in the way of the EGR Valve flow?
When and how to change?
View 2 RepliesI finally got some time yesterday and put Seafoam into my PCV valve to clean the injectors. I also replaced the PCV valve. My car seems to have more power!
View 9 Replies