Chevrolet - Cruze :: 2012 - Radio Won't Work Properly?
Jun 19, 2013
We just bought our 2012 Chevy Cruze in April (it was a rental return) and in the last couple of weeks the (computerized) radio has started to go berzerk. It doesn't do it all the time -- which is why the dealership hasn't caught it yet -- but when it does, it keeps rebooting itself in the manner of this other 2012. Will the car suddenly die on us without warning? We're going to make the dealership take it back if they can't find the cause and fix it.
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I have a 2012 Cruze with a manual transmission. I have 43000 miles. When I down shift into 2nd gear I get a whining noise from under the car. I can shift it with no issues and no noise but when down shifting or turning in 2nd gear it whines.
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My radio does not work kinda... when i turn the car on it works for a minute just fine, then the volume goes off and i cant put it up or down, but i can use and other function cd/casset fm, change stations and all that i just cant use the volume, or hear anything if i turn the radio off and then back on it works for like 5 sec then same thing happens.... I know sounds like fuses, but why does it work then shuts off?
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The engine light came on so I took it to a mechanic to get it checked. I was told that the PCV valve was bad. They told me that the valve needs changed and the valve cover gasket needs changed. Does this sound correct for a PCV valve?
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I am a member of the 'engine off at red light' club, as I have found it to conseve significant gasoline in my town. My question has to do with actions prior to restarting the engine.
Years ago, when cars had distributors containing breaker points, it as generally recomended NOT to turn the key ON for an extended period prior to starting the engine. The given rational was that such action could cause the points to burn and pit.
Today, most cars have individual igniters for each plug, and the points in a distributor are history. Is there any danger to turning the ignition ON for a period prior to starting (or restarting) the engine? This action minimizes the 'time to start and get moving' away from a traffic light recently turned green.
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I have a 2014 cruze, and when I press down the brake there is a loudish noise that sounds like air blowing out that I hear coming from the outside of my car. When this happens, my brake pedal also pushes closer to the floor. I noticed this maybe 1 month after I purchased, so I'm not sure if this is standard or something I should be concerned about.
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I purchased a new battery for my 2008 Chevy Equinox and have it installed. After they installed it, my car radio would not turn on at all. The clock on the radio interface had been reset to 12:00 when they disconnected the battery, but I could not reset the clock to the appropriate time after installation. After doing some research, I came up with two scenarios to look into:
-the fuse was damaged;
-or, the removal of the battery triggered a security lock down on the car radio that requires a code to be inputted to make it operable again.
I checked the fuse, and it worked fine. I looked up the security lockdown item in the manual, and it explicitly noted that if this were to be the case, the interface would clearly indicate the word "LOCKED." The interface does not indicate this. The only thing the interface indicates is the time, which is incorrect.
Are there any hypotheses as to why my car radio is now inoperable? And are there any suggested solutions for resolving this?
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I have a new 2012 Chevy Cruze with 10,000 miles on it. Chevy has issued service bulletins citing a problem that they can't seem to diagnose or repair (yet) and my car has the problem. They tell me their engineers are working on it. After the car is a little warm, when I apply the break there is a loud squeaking or whirring noise which pulsates at the speed of the tires (in other words, as I slow down, the intervals between each sound gets longer and longer). I suspect it is coming from the back. First they thought it was sticking calipers until they realized that I have drum brakes on the rear. It is loud enough that the only way no to hear this grating noise is to blast the radio.
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Brand new. On start up when first accelerating I hear a weird bottoming out kind of scrapping noise and a tiny hitch in accelerating. Only happens once once after start up. Maybe 50% of the time this will happen on start up. What this may be?
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A few weeks ago, I went out to my car & the remote opener would not work. So I opened the door with the key. I went to start the car & it would not start. I got absolutely nothing. I also then could not get the key back out of the ignition. It would not even turn back to the original position. My father get the car started with a jump, but since then my car radio does not work. I also do not hear any noise when using the turn signals. They work, but no "blinking" sound. I tried to research this thinking maybe you have to "reset" the radio after a power "outage" but have been unable to find anything on how to do this. My husband recently passed away and I'm feeling a little lost when it comes to issues with my car. Where I can find some info?
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After replacing the battery on a 2012 Hyndai Elantra the Clock, radio, remote control and the inside light stopped working. I saw a thread that says open the fuse box inside the car to the left of the steering wheel and push the Yellow Fuse switch to the Off position then click any button on the remote control then put the switch back to the On position and everything should work again which it did for about a month.
Now the remote, the radio, clock and inside lights are not working again. I did what i did last time and everything works fine when the switch is in the OFF position, but when I put it back to the ON position then all these things stop working. All fuses are fine I checked the Memory, Multimedia, BMC fuses and they are all good. When the switch is in the OFF position the car gives you a blinking message SWITCH ON , which means it's telling you to have the switch in the ON position. I have 64, 000 miles which means it's out of warranty now.
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Will a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo engine wear out / break down / fail sooner than a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L engine ( w/o the turbo ) ? Both being automatic transmissions. Driven by the same person. What is the gas mileage difference between the same two ?
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Air Conditioner sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. when it does, it works fine.
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My air conditioner (from new) seems to work properly only when I'm driving over 50mph. On the interstate, for example, it's fine. Recently I had a passenger who really drew my attention to it. "What's wrong with your air conditioner. You should get it fix!"
It seems that, when I am stopped (as in stop-and-go traffic) or parked with the car running, the air conditioner blows warm air.
Is this normal for this car? It's a 2006 Azera. If not, is there an easy fix?
This happened from day 1, so I just thought it was normal. But I guess it's not.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE, and the rear driver's side blinker does not work properly, I mean that I have replaced the bulb, and it will work rarely.
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I own a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 OHV V6. What would cause the heat to not work properly? The engine temp gets into the operating range as it should and the coolant flows well. I'm just not getting more than 10 degrees above outdoor air from the heater.It doesn't matter where the controls are set, anywhere from defrost to vent makes no difference.
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Is it true I can never have different types of tires between front and rear? Even if the size is the same? I put on winter tires the other at the front. The result was a nasty noise when I would accelerate and release the pedal suddenly... I had to switch back to my old summer and (unequally) used front tires.
I wonder why that is. Furthermore, the wear on my tires is not equal between front and back.
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I just bought a 2007 and my Multi Information Display does not work properly on the climate control screen or information screen. ie when you press temp up or down buttons it sometimes works and when you want to change the fan speed and press medium it goes to low. On the information screen no matter what you select it goes to Trip information screen. However the Audio screen works perfectly.
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I have a 2004 v8 phaeton. Recently I found out the front shocks cannot work properly to absorb the shakes. I can feel stiffened and the car swayed badly on those light offroad. How come it doesn't happen to the rear shocks but just the front one?
It is so uncomfortable while driving in my car. I also drove it to vw 4s and have the tire rotation, wheel alignment done, then they checked the air suspension and said it still worked. Actually they didn't make my car being better, coz when i drove it back home i can still feel the same, shocks are tough and the car swayed, I wondered if the front shocks have been worn out. Then I ask the advisor from vw if he can order the new parts for me, then he answered they cannot replace them for me, coz it is air-shocks, i am so confused , what's that mean by air shocks?and air shocks can not be replaced?
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It seems as though whenever I turn on the AC in the car (and sometimes even if I don't engage the AC) all the windows lock and only I can control them from the driver's control panel...
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My Excursion recently had all of the door lock actuators replaced, but locking still wouldn't function correctly...everything works fine with both the fob and the door keypad, but when using the door switches it would only lock, not unlock.
I searched for three days trying to find where the door relays were because I knew my actuators were all good....I happened upon a thread on here where a user had my same issue and was asking about relays. Like me he was trying to find out where the relays were, but users kept wanting to tell him to do the foil quick fix on his actuators. Even after he specifically said he was sure it was NOT the actuators, posters kept telling him to focus on the actuators, that there were no relays other than internal to the VSM I think...he finally took it to the stealership and they told him they had replaced one of the power lock relays under the dashboard.
I searched the internet for a couple more days trying to find where those elusive relays were, and all I could find was a generic "under the dash" if even that much--most people kept wanting to point users to the actuators. So for any future readers who want to know where the door lock relays on a 2000 Excursion are located, there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door lock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal.
You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower wiring cover below it that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right of the opening where you removed the knee panel (look just above the accelerator pedal), find and remove the single gold 7mm screw that holds the driver's footwell air diverter in place, and remove the air diverter. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three relays. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to make sure the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.
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