Chevrolet - Corvette :: Buzz When Turn The Key - No Starting Motor Noises
Aug 1, 2012
Been fighting a starting problem for months with a 1976 Corvette. Car starts fine on first try, but if I shut off the engine, it won't crank again for hours, usually overnight. All I get is a buzzer noise when I turn the key - no starting motor noises. This happens no matter how long the engine has run, be it 30 seconds or an hour, so I don't thing the starting motor is getting hot. Car has a new battery and alternator - that didn't solve anything. What to check or replace next? Starting motor? Solinoid? Ignition switch? By the way, the car has a manual transmission.
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so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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My car makes a ticking noise as soon as I turn the key to the 'on' position. The ticking continues once the engine begins running and stops shortly afterward (maybe 10 - 15 seconds). I'll attach a video of the ticking after the car is already running. I've checked the service light. It is the catalytic converter. I'm pretty sure this is a separate problem, but am not sure what is causing it.
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I have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?
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I am having a couple issues with my 94 Corvette with Auto Transmission with 107k miles.. First, when I am coming to a stop, from like 2 mph to full stop, I am getting like a clunking that sounds and feels like it is coming from behind me and to the right (from rear middle of the car). It does Not do this if I shift into neutral b4 I get to low speeds.
The second problem is, I got caught in a very heavy rain last weekend, and the digital speedometer area started blinking off and on about once or twice per second, and the "idiot light" panel lit up like a Christmas tree. The car started sputtering but never stalled out...it was almost if it was turning itself off and on repeatedly. I pulled over under a canopy, and waited out the brief but intense downpour, and its been fine ever since (about 100 miles), but it has only been driven in nice weather since. I checked the battery connections (and that's about it) and they were tight and clean.
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1981 Corvette rebuilt/restored. 35+ mph. steering wheel shakes/vibrates. Higher speed, depress clutch, smooth ride. Taken to mechanic recently, test driven to acknowledge, lift done twice, no clue.
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My 2003 Corvette has 17,000 gentle miles on it. At around 15,000 miles I found that I couldn't get the car into 5th gear. It has a grinding metallic sound. All the other gears and the clutch work fine - and I've been forced to shift from 4th to 6th.
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I own a sweet 2008 Corvette with 31,000 miles. I have only use Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Every spring, after the winter hibernation, I change the oil despite having only 5,000 to 6,000 miles between oil changes. My question is, should I continue to change the oil once a year or can I wait to change it at the 10,000 mile interval.
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My car runs great except occasionally after I drive awhile, park and than restart to continue, it starts right up but stalls out 20-30 seconds later. I turns over but will not run. I have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes and than it starts up like a champ. I suspect fuel pump but would like an expert opinion. Garage says they can find nothing wrong and to bring it in when it happens... how do I do that.
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1994 corvette auto trans, when car is parked or in drive with foot on the brake will start to idle up, the back down and like lunge forward if in drive and foot on the brake. Then if you drive it, and step on it, it will miss fire. My mechanis put it on his scanner but it showed no problems. The opti- spark, wires, plugs were replaced 2 years ago and 12,000 miles ago.
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I have a '95 'vette LT1 that I bought new for my 50th birthday. I only drive it about 4-500 (yes - hundred) miles a year and for the most part it sits in the garage, gets washed and waxed, and put away. 51000 original miles, the first 40000 put on in the first 1 1/2 years. I've had an ignition and fuel injection problem since I bought it. Get's fixed then some new ignition/injection problem comes back. Here's what it does now: car starts fine, runs about 30 seconds with no problem, then starts to miss, runs very rough and very rich (can smell it in the exhaust). After about 3 minutes, the engine smooths out and 2 seconds later, the "check engine" light comes on and the cooling fan starts to run. It runs fine for about 5 minutes, then "check engine" light goes out, fan stops, starts to run rough, misses, gas mileage (per the dash display) goes to about 5 mpg, runs rich, etc. Then the cycle starts again with the "check engine" light and fan coming on and the car running fine. I have no clue.
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Recent motor swap, wont turn over, headlights come on when key is on accesory Wiring problem? Stock Harness. ONLY wires touched were for throttle body and fuel ingection.
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I placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
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Having issues with 2009 Honda Odyssey. I'll describe, but I can't be certain these things are related.This morning, battery was dead for no apparent reason. No lights were left on, etc. Battery is brand new.After jump-starting, car ran fine for a few moments, then starting making loud intermittent "buzz" sound from engine/radiator area, down inside maybe on the left side of the radiator. There was also smoke rising from the engine.
I don't know much about cars, unfortunately, but cursory research suggests it might have something to do with the AC system.
I have attached a MOV which captures the sound it was making.
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Background Info: 2002 Camry LE w/ 2.4L engine with approx 90,100 miles. Battery is approx 3 years old and is fully charged (used a trickle charger)
Yesterday I noticed the car was hesitant when I was starting the car. Every time I started the car it took longer to get the car started. Then today, I tried to start my car but all i got was a sound that sounded like something was spinning. There was no clicking, no sounds of the car trying to turn over. So I attached the charger to my car and it said it was good (plus the lights worked, the radio worked, windows rolled up and down).
So I used my breaker bar and hit the starter twice, went back in to the car and it started up, very hesitantly. Now my car will only start when i hit the starter first, otherwise it makes that spinning noise.
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1996 ford explorer xlt 4.0. One day it worked fine the next day it would not start. When I turn the key there are no dash lights or exterior lights, nothing. There is also no crank over no noise of any kind. I checked all my fuses, I had one in my power distributer. It was for my premium sound, amplifier ect. I cant check the relays I don't have the correct tools. I was thinking maybe the pcm relay has gone bad? I tried jumping the car as well and nothing happened at all either.
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I bought a 2015 Camry LE, with manual AC.
I just noticed that every time I turn the temperature knob, there is a small buzz/hiss noise come from the center console. the more you turn the knob, the noise last longer, however, the sound disappear soon once you stop turning the knob.I tested this when the car is parked with power on but engine is not running, this noise is also noticeable in City drive if you audio is off.
I did some research and know that it is from the Heat blend door actuator/Air mix door motor. When you change the temperature, the motor is going to change the direction of the heat blend door.
My questions is : Is this noise noticeable on every Camry?
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i buy a used car from a friend. when I push the pedal to accelerate from still(RPM 1000-2000), i can hear clearly there is a noise from front and the bottom of the car (same source). It is a noise obviously generated by metal clashing with each other. But such noise doesn't appear when the car hit big holes on roads or when the RPM is higher than 2000RPM. the car goes smoothly and quietly on highway, but the noise worries me.
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I have a 2005 nissan maxima that won't start. I have a new starter and battery. When I turn the key everything in the car comes on except for the car (it also makes no sound when you turn the key). I checked to see if it was the ignition switch by bridging the connection on the starter with a screw driving. The starter comes on but the car wont start. It tried starting it in neutral (still doesn't work). It's not the security because the light turns off when you try to start it.
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I've got a 2005 Volvo V50. High Mileage (230000). Timing belt replaced at 200k. Runs really nice, until this evening. Inserted the key and turned over but instead of starting it made whirring robot noises and read "brake failure message" and "immobilizar" after turning key to off position. It's really cold out. 0 degrees. What's the next move?
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I have some issues with my 2009 F250 5.4L. Recently I got in the car and went to start it. It started fine but I was getting beeping noises from the dashboard. 5 beeps with 1 second between each beep for 3 times. I shut the car off and go to start it again and engine does not crank at all. I get the relay click every time i try to start it but engine doesn't want to crank. Then the beeps come back.
About a month ago I had a reputable shop here in town install a compustar remote starter. It hasn't given me any troubles at all but I'm thinking this might be the culprit behind the issue. I towed the car down to the place where they installed my remote starter and they got the car started. They said I had blown fuses and the remote starter is not behind the problem I'm having. So I picked the car up and it was all good for 4 days and last night I get in the car and same issue.
I scanned the car and came back with these codes
U2472 Ignition State Unexpected
B1868 Lamp Air Bag Warning Indicator Circuit Failure
U2023 Vehicle communication bus error
I tried resetting the codes and tried to start the car (it didn't) and another code popped up
B1555 for ignition run/start circuit failure.
Whats going on? Problem?
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