I have a 2007 Chev Colorado PU (automatic) and whenever I use the brake to come to a stop my rpms surge from 500 to 1000 - both visually on the tach and you can feel it also. When the truck is stoped it returns to noral (750). accelerates fine - shifts fine - fuel economy is a bit down.
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 Chevy Colorado has an intermittent problem with starting up. It will try to start and labor and without touching the key, it tries to start itself again. If I wait 15 minutes, it starts just fine. Someone said it was maybe the passlock ignition switch or passlock senior, and to fix it the passlock sensor would need to be bypassed.
View 5 RepliesCheck engine light has been on and when I checked the code it came up as the cam shift sensor. How do I know if it is the upper or lower and where are they located? I'm fairly mechanical so can I do this myself?
View 1 RepliesMechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
My husband was having to have his truck jumped morning and evening mechanic said it wasn,t a bad battery but changing fuses or swiches wasn,t working. We bought a new battery a day latter wipers don,t work. mechanic buys a used motor, motor works in test colorado but doesn,t work in my husbands truck mechanic is a little stumped.
View 1 RepliesMy ABS light is on most of the time. When I first start the engine it will be on, but when I put the truck in gear, either forward or reverse, it will shut of after moving only 5 or 10 feet. It will stay off for 2 or 3 blocks before it will come back on and stay on until you shut it off and start the process over again. I have replaced the left front ABS sensor and the right front hub an bearing assembly, which has a new ABS sensor in it already. A scanner still says the both front ABS sensors are at fault. I have unhooked the sensors and the ABS motor and unhooked the battery and nothing has changed. All connections look very clean and the pins look straight.
View 2 RepliesStarter clicks wont crank...
View 2 Replies2006 chevy Colorado, 4 cyl engine, 50000 miles, at times when engine is warm it won't restart, when cold no problem, starter turns engine over OK, just won't start, wait 15--30 minutes starts OK... when engine is running it runs good..drives good, Chevy Dealer found no problems, I can find no fault codes when hooked up...
View 6 RepliesI have an 05 chevy colorado and I cant seem to get the tailgate to open. When you pull the handle to open it, you feel a slight click like you would if it would open but it wont budge. Ive tried pushing into it and pulling, I've had someone sit in the bed and push while i pulled and nothing is working.
View 4 Replies1996 chevy s10 pickup with 96500 miles. Have been dealing with this problem for more than a year. Replaced master cylinder once, brake booster twice and the abs pump (cost more than the transmission). My new mechanic has bled the lines twice, replaced the master cylinder and brake booster and apbs pump and is now at a loss. The brake pedal will go down half way and stick with a loud vacuum leak 'whistle'. I can pry the pedal back up with my foot and then it will operate find for a few days...then whistle again. I love this truck, the engine is strong (new tranny 9 mos ago) and the body in great shape. I don't and can't afford to get rid of it yet.
View 9 RepliesIt leaks even when the car has been sitting when it rains and I can't see where it is coming in.
View 1 Replies2004 Colorado w 5 cyl. About 4-6 times per year (randomly) the truck will either not start, or the electric locks won't work or the turn signal flashes radically or the electric windows won't operate. Currently the locks refuse to work on any door, but the windows work every where except the drivers door. Mechanics opinions seem to revolve around the body control module, but the error codes, don't seem to support this.
View 4 RepliesI used a OBD scan tool and all it told me was my idle air control system rpm is lower than expected and my evaporative system has a high purge flow. What this means, can I fix it or do I have to send it to a shop. Also when idling the short term fuel trim 1 is at -3% whatever that means.
View 16 RepliesI purchased a 2005 chevy colorado today, and when I got home I found out that the power windows on the passenger side don't work, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the front and rear doors when I press the buttons, but the windows don't move.
View 19 RepliesI have an '05 Chevy Colorado and the front turn signals don't work and no flashers. I've tried replacing bulbs and checked the fuses. Looking for info what would work.
View 3 RepliesFuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
View 4 RepliesI have 2007 Chevrolet Aveo. I have changed spark plugs, new battery, changed and checked brake system. I still have this issue sometimes when am braking the engine loses power and at times will cut off while braking or if you brake hard it'll lose power, the car shut down, the engine, power steering and everything went off and all the dash lights lit up. Even sometimes when on parking and AC is on, once I change gear to D or R it shuts down. And it looks like the AC is weakening engine's power also.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Colorado, 5 cylinder, automatic, 4wheel drive with 62,700mi. 1st problem occurred in 2013 new thermostat was replaced then in 2015 temp. gauge shows overheating problem again. All diagnostic problems have been analyzed by mechanic and nothing further could be done. Mechanic suggests to take truck to dealer. The temp. reading still shows above normal operation and the engine compartment has signs of overheating also. If the truck driven on uphill range the temp. goes higher I refuse to drive in this condition which will surely ruin the entire engine.
View 2 RepliesAbout a week ago I noticed my 2012 II felt more noticeable when the electric motor would assist. I thought it was temperature related as it got really cold here in MO. But tonight on my way home I had the cruise set at 50mph and I had the same issue. This time I changed the monitor screen to see when the electric motor was kicking in. However the electric motor was not working and it felt like the RPMs were surging up and down radically and for no reason. My car is still under warranty but I can not make it do it on command so I fear the dealership will not find it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1994 dodge ram 2 wheel drive with a 318. Idles fine but when put under a load it starts surging and bucking at about 1500 rpms. Idles at 1500 no problem only under a load...
View 4 RepliesGot a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
View 4 Replies