Chevrolet - Colorado :: 1996 - Brake Pedal Whistles
Apr 25, 2013
1996 chevy s10 pickup with 96500 miles. Have been dealing with this problem for more than a year. Replaced master cylinder once, brake booster twice and the abs pump (cost more than the transmission). My new mechanic has bled the lines twice, replaced the master cylinder and brake booster and apbs pump and is now at a loss. The brake pedal will go down half way and stick with a loud vacuum leak 'whistle'. I can pry the pedal back up with my foot and then it will operate find for a few days...then whistle again. I love this truck, the engine is strong (new tranny 9 mos ago) and the body in great shape. I don't and can't afford to get rid of it yet.
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Right before Xmas our 09 Forester was hit while parked on the street. The whole front end of our car got wrecked. Was still driveable but we needed a new radiator, AC compressor, fenders, bumper, hood, lights, etc...over 5K worth of work.
As soon as we picked it up we noticed that when you press on the gas the car makes a high pitched whistling noise, almost like the noise when you'd try to tune in an old transistor radio. It only happens when the car is driving and the gas is pressed, not when parked or in neutral.
I know we should have probably brought it right back to the shop that day but I really did not like the shop at all and they are not at all convenient to where I live. I've read it could be a loose cat converter. I checked the air intake housing and that is secure.
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My husband was having to have his truck jumped morning and evening mechanic said it wasn,t a bad battery but changing fuses or swiches wasn,t working. We bought a new battery a day latter wipers don,t work. mechanic buys a used motor, motor works in test colorado but doesn,t work in my husbands truck mechanic is a little stumped.
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I have a 96 voyager, it has been a great car for the last 10 years I've had it. My brake pedal goes down to the floor, it gives brake but I think barely and my brake light comes on. I have Bled it twice and changed the master cylinder , neither worked, I'm perplexed, my mechanic thinks it is the abs.
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My 96 thunderbird had a rear caliper shot. I changed the caliper, the rotor, and the brake pads then bled all the brakes. The three I didn't touch bled perfectly when someone in the car pressed the brake, I let fluid flow, then tightened the nut. The wheel with all the new parts I get zero fluid out of. I removed the brake line completely and pumped the brakes and still no fluid. It has no pedal and three of the four brakes have been bled. My only guess is there is air in the line but why wouldn't any fluid come out if I continually pump the brake pedal with only that one line open?
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My 2007 Chevy Colorado has an intermittent problem with starting up. It will try to start and labor and without touching the key, it tries to start itself again. If I wait 15 minutes, it starts just fine. Someone said it was maybe the passlock ignition switch or passlock senior, and to fix it the passlock sensor would need to be bypassed.
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My ABS light is on most of the time. When I first start the engine it will be on, but when I put the truck in gear, either forward or reverse, it will shut of after moving only 5 or 10 feet. It will stay off for 2 or 3 blocks before it will come back on and stay on until you shut it off and start the process over again. I have replaced the left front ABS sensor and the right front hub an bearing assembly, which has a new ABS sensor in it already. A scanner still says the both front ABS sensors are at fault. I have unhooked the sensors and the ABS motor and unhooked the battery and nothing has changed. All connections look very clean and the pins look straight.
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Starter clicks wont crank...
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Sometimes my 96 Subaru Legacy will not turnover unless the brake pedal is pressed. Other times starts without my foot on the pedal. It seems to need the brake pedal addition more often if it has sat a couple hours or more without being started.
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2006 chevy Colorado, 4 cyl engine, 50000 miles, at times when engine is warm it won't restart, when cold no problem, starter turns engine over OK, just won't start, wait 15--30 minutes starts OK... when engine is running it runs good..drives good, Chevy Dealer found no problems, I can find no fault codes when hooked up...
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I have an 05 chevy colorado and I cant seem to get the tailgate to open. When you pull the handle to open it, you feel a slight click like you would if it would open but it wont budge. Ive tried pushing into it and pulling, I've had someone sit in the bed and push while i pulled and nothing is working.
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Check engine light has been on and when I checked the code it came up as the cam shift sensor. How do I know if it is the upper or lower and where are they located? I'm fairly mechanical so can I do this myself?
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I have a 2007 Chev Colorado PU (automatic) and whenever I use the brake to come to a stop my rpms surge from 500 to 1000 - both visually on the tach and you can feel it also. When the truck is stoped it returns to noral (750). accelerates fine - shifts fine - fuel economy is a bit down.
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96 Aerostar Cargo 6 cyln. Auto.
There is a noise coming from what sounds like the rear passenger side wheel. Also, when you put it in drive and release your foot from the brake the van stays still. You have to push the gas to get it moving, like the brake is holding it. If you are going very slow on a flat surface the van will eventually stop instead of idling forward.
I have removed the wheel, it does turn hard. Pulled the drum (was very hard to remove). Had to move adjuster to remove drum. Cleaned inside, inspected the brake shoes, put drum back on, etc. I am pretty sure that brake is causing resistance. How to resolve it?
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It leaks even when the car has been sitting when it rains and I can't see where it is coming in.
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2004 Colorado w 5 cyl. About 4-6 times per year (randomly) the truck will either not start, or the electric locks won't work or the turn signal flashes radically or the electric windows won't operate. Currently the locks refuse to work on any door, but the windows work every where except the drivers door. Mechanics opinions seem to revolve around the body control module, but the error codes, don't seem to support this.
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I used a OBD scan tool and all it told me was my idle air control system rpm is lower than expected and my evaporative system has a high purge flow. What this means, can I fix it or do I have to send it to a shop. Also when idling the short term fuel trim 1 is at -3% whatever that means.
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Brake pedal whistles and is hard to push. Only happens intermittently. Mechanic wants to put new brake booster on. This would be 3rd brake booster in 9mos. It's gotta be something else. What does the vacuum hose connect to from the check valve; where on the intake manifold? If no PVC valve...then what else? Truck runs fine...no fast idle or rough idle and no hesitation.
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I purchased a 2005 chevy colorado today, and when I got home I found out that the power windows on the passenger side don't work, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the front and rear doors when I press the buttons, but the windows don't move.
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I have an '05 Chevy Colorado and the front turn signals don't work and no flashers. I've tried replacing bulbs and checked the fuses. Looking for info what would work.
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Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
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