Chevrolet - Cobalt :: Smell Gasoline Only When Turn The Heater Or AC On
Jan 4, 2013
I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt... I can smell gasoline ONLY when I turn the heater or a/c on. I have taken the car to TWO different auto shops and no one knows WHAT is causing this. The check engine light came on recently after a radiator flush and the first auto shop said it was a thermostat switch and bring it back the next day. I was leery of this and went to the second auto shop who told me they never heard of a thermostat switch and to bring it back whenever the check engine light comes on again. Meantime, I will not turn on the heat or air because the gas smell gives me a headache. What this could be?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
My wife was about to pull off of our hill (facing uphill) to go to work. She said she stopped, held on the brake, and looked back and forth. She then went to press the gas and the pedal wouldn't respond (no rev either) but the engine WAS on. The car started drifting backward and she said that both the steering and the brakes were very difficult to control (power and brake assist had disappeared). She was able to guide it back into the driveway and get it parked. She said that when she got it parked, she turned it off and started it up again. She tried the gas and it worked and she tried the steering and brakes and both worked. She stayed home today while we try to figure out what's going on with it for fear that it will happen again.
I initially thought some sort of power loss but she said that the radio stayed on. There were no dash warning lights or sounds indicated to her and she said that there were no unusual sounds from the car during this whole thing.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt 5 speed manual with 49k miles. For the last year the car idles rough at stop lights when the A/C or heater is turned on. The rough idling is not continuous but intermittent with the rpm falling just below 500 and returning to just under 1000. This is accompanied by a shuddering, as if the car is about to stall out. I should also mention that the car has a tendency to stall when rolling to a stop in 1st or 2nd gear. The check engine light comes on sporadically during fast acceleration, usually on a steep incline, when driving on the highway on ramp. A recent diagnostic indicated the need to replace the fuel filter and clean the fuel system, including the throttle body. Had these things done, but I'm still having the same issues with the car. I mentioned this to my mechanic and he said it may be a loose hose.
View 3 Replies
As I mentioned earlier I have a 2001 Ford Focus and for the past month I've been smelling gasoline in the interior of the car, especially when the heater is running and the car has just started. My mechanic, as yet, had been unable to discover a source of the gasoline fumes. The fumes are so strong that if a source cannot be found the car is, for all-intents-and-purposes undrivable. If this problem cannot be resolved, there is a real possibility that I'll have to get a new car. What, if any thing, do I tell prospective buyers, should I decide to sell the car?
View 4 Replies
Car clicks when I turn the key , all lights and electrical come on but the engine will not turn over....
View 2 Replies
For a little over a month now, the front left turn signal has gone out at least once a week. I have been continuing to buy new bulbs for it, and it would run for a few days, then quit on me again. Just today, it happened again, I replaced the bulb, but this time it still isn't working. Ive tried clearing some of the crud off of the inside of the socket, but nothing seems to be working, and now im down a turn signal.
View 1 Replies
I am having an electrical problem with my front right turn signal I have not been able to chase down.
The symptoms are when the headlights are on, either manually or automatically from the daylight sensor, the front right turn signal will not flash, and I get the double speed clicking as if there were a burned out bulb. However, when it is daylight out and the headlights are in daytime running light mode, the turn signal works fine, 95% of the time. Occasionally when the headlights are off the turn signal will not work either.
I have replaced the headlights casing and bulbs, and tried rebuilding the pig tail harness as well.
View 3 Replies
We bought our 2002 Honda Civic new and have maintained it exactly as specified. Intermittently when we turn on the AC/heater we get a horrid smell, sometimes like dirty socks, sometimes like vomit, sometimes like damp basement. We recently had the cabin air filter changed. It doesn't happen every time we turn the AC/heater on, but enough that it can be very irritating!
View 2 Replies
Every 6 weeks my car, a 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt, won't start. Key goes in half way and won't go any further. Key won't come out and it's totally dead. Jump start it and it's good for another 6 weeks or so. What could be causing this?
View 2 Replies
I currently own a 2006 Chevy Cobalt. For the past few months it had a problem that every time I get gas when I go to start the car up I have to pump the gas pedal and crank it at the same time to get it to start running. Once its running I have to either get driving pronto or sit and it park and accelerate it a little for a bit to keep the car running. If I let go of the gas pedal the car will clunk and shut off. If I drive off after a few blocks it’ll work fine and I won’t have the problem again until I put more gas in it. Occasionally when at a light or stop sign while in drive the car will clunk a little but normally stop after few seconds.
I went to AutoZone and they told me I had a pressure thing (can’t remember fully) but to replace the gas cap. Which the car tells every so often to check my gas cap. Well 4-5 gas caps later problem still there. What it could be or how to fix it, last resort is to take it to the mechanic and pay a nice bill for a fix.
View 3 Replies
I am having an issue with my 2006 Chevy Cobalt. I recently had a new fuel pump put in. Within a week the car would not start. The very next day the car started fine and ran well. The next day it would not start again. The next day, started and ran fine. Then this morning it would not start again. I don't think it can be a faulty fuel pump. What might be the problem?
View 5 Replies
Make: Chevy Model: Cobalt LS Year: 2005 Mileage: 120000
So I'm having this problem with my engine stalling at low RPM. The RPM goes to 0 and the engine shuts off.
This only happens when traveling at low speeds (e.g. slowly accelerating from a stop, braking, moving in stop and go traffic)
This NEVER happens when I'm traveling above 10 mph (e.g. if I'm coasting at 40 and let my foot off the gas, the RPM can go to 500 RPM but it will never stall in this case).
After the stall, I can always put the car in park, turn the ignition and it will turn back on again.
I have not noticed any electrical problems that occur when this happens (the radio stays on during the stall and the lights don't dim).
My car was part of that Chevy ignition switch recall, but I took it to the dealership which (hopefully) repaired it.
View 4 Replies
Recently my car started to go at a lower speed like around 5-10 mph. Then it started not showing the speed I was going. Then the RPM goes higher and higher and does not come down. I took it to the shop thinking the recall for the ignition switch was going to fix the problem but even after I got the egnition switch fix I was still experiences those issue.s I took it back to the shop to get a diagnostic that cost 100 bucks they told me to get my transmission fixed. After I had gone and done that my car still was experiencing those problems. Also some times the car turns back to normal like it wasn't even having issue everything goes soothly for about a good 2 to 3 miles and it goes back to it's old issues. What I can do or if they are experiencing these issue too? I wondering if I should take it back to the dealers and have them look at it again or not?
View 6 Replies
My Chevy Cobalt will not start when it is cold (when water freezes)...but only sometimes. When you go to start the engine, it will initially turn over but does not ignite. Then, the second time if you turn the key normally no sound will emit. However, if you put the key in and only turn to get the lights on the dash to come on and THEN turn the key, it will turn over, but no dice. This past time a code "engine pwr reduced" came up, but that doesn't always happen. When you wait four hours or more, it will start like normal accompanied by the check engine light. The check engine light goes off the second time you start it after the non-start.
I have taken it to a mechanic and they have not been able to reproduce the problem, even when it was cold enough to theoretically have happened. He said it might be an issue with the body module which explains why the ignition switch code comes up when you run it through a computer, but since this is such an expensive fix he said he can't recommend I get it done until we know for sure. So there is a pattern, this happens about every 2 months and then the issue clears up for a while.
What is going on??? Will there ever be a way to tell what is wrong (and fix it) without a mechanic reproducing the issue?
View 2 Replies
Ran my battery down on my car when I left my lights on and proceeded to work an 8-hour shift.
Came out and stuck my key in the ignition. Nothing happened, which is when I realized my plight. The dang ignition wouldn't release my key! This meant I couldn't get into the trunk by key. I pressed the (stupidly electric) remote trunk lock. That's where the jumper cables are! Did I mention it was below freezing and I wasn't dressed for sustained outdoor shenanigans?
Fortunately, I was able to flag down co-workers with jumper cables, after a time. We opened the hood--praises, they actually left a cable-actuated device on the car!--and got going. None the less, it was a close scare.
1) Why does the ignition "grab" the key without battery power?
2) How does one defeat 1)?
3) Is it necessary to store my jumper cables INSIDE the car?
4) What mental giant decided a trunk latch that's INOP with a dead battery was a good idea?
I have a decent working understanding of a lock cylinder--6 or so spring-loaded wafers that retract into the cylinder body, allowing it to turn--but I don't see how that requires current flow to work. If it's a "safety" feature, how do I disable it, permanently?
View 8 Replies
2008 Chevy Cobalt
The fan for my A/c and heat does not turn on anymore. The A/c and heating systems themselves do work because if I put my hand right up against the vent I can feel it. When I switch on the fan, there is no noise, no humming either. This happened over the course of two days where first the fan worked fine, then it took a little while to turn on, then it would only turn on if I put it on high and waited a long time, then it didn't turn on at all.
Since then I have not tried to turn the fan on for more than a few minutes to see if I can get it to work again because I'm concerned that the trapped heat or A/c might damage something inside (am I correct?).
View 1 Replies
My wife recently got stuck in a snowstorm. Some people got her out and she drove a couple miles to work. After leaving work, her car started shaking at red lights (like big, slow shakes, back and forth, not making forward progress), but stopped as soon as she started to move or put the car in neutral. It did this on her way home from work and then continued when she left for a workout class about half an hour later. However, after this, it stopped completely.
Some people seemed to suggest engine mount problems to other people, which seems serious if it is that. However, since it did stop after a short time, is it possible there was snow stuck somewhere causing a problem and it finally just melted off? Or is the getting stuck in snow the same day probably just a coincidence? It seems odd that it would stop once the brake is let up.
Right now I'm planning to take it in sometime later this week most likely, but am wondering if I can avoid that since it hasn't exhibited any of the same symptoms for a few days. The car is a 2010 Chevy Cobalt.
View 6 Replies
So I went to get in my car this morning and the key fob wouldn't unlock my car. None of the buttons work, I tried them all. Now someone would say ok... why don't you just open it with the key? Well I'll tell you why! My car was part of the ignition switch recall and when they swapped everything out at the dealership, the guys didn't cut me a key to go with my door. So the key that starts my car is not the same one that unlocks my car. I walked up to Autozone thinking a quick battery change would do the trick. The guy tested my fob with the indicator thing they have and said "this is fine." I explained my problem and he said he could sell me a battery, but he wouldn't want to if that's not the problem. Could it be something with the communication? In which case, what does the fob communicate with in my car? I can't even get into my car!
View 19 Replies
A week ago today my Low Beams stopped working, I turned on my car and they flashed on like normal, then a split second later went out; Just as the sun was setting too.
After finding a place to leave my car and hitching a ride home, I went back the next day to check it out.
Checked and double checked all the fuses, all were ok (I checked every single fuse, not just the lo beams)Checked all the wire connections to ensure they are tight.Replaced the light bulbs, still nothing.Ordered a new Headlight Switch, and just installed it today, Low Beams still don't work.
My High Beams, Blinkers, Hazards, Break Lights, and Daylights all work, just not my Low Beams, any clues as to what might the problem be?
2009 Chevy Cobalt, Just under 100k Miles
View 2 Replies
Keys get stuck in ignition lose all power have replaced ignition and shifter?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt and am currently stranded with my husband. Last night as we were about to head home from visiting family 3hrs away, we got off at an exit and as we were stopping about to go again because the light turned green, the car stalled. We had to start it a bunch of times just to get it to the nearest gas station about an eighth of a mile down the road. The message on the dashboard said "engine power reduced". We looked up that message online and a few posts said to disconnect the battery. We did that a few times but when we went to go, it kept doing what it did before, stalling. We were almost to the road and decided we weren't going to make it so we put it in reverse and it drove just fine back to a parking spot. Why it would stall idling and in drive but not in reverse? We are baffled and currently waiting on a tow.
View 3 Replies
