I have a 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt with 26700 miles on it and I have recently started hear some odd rattling noises from the back right tire area and I have looked under the car to make sure that there was not anything loose under there and I didn't see anything. The tires on getting pretty worn out and I have order a whole new set, but I am still very worried about that noise.
View 3 RepliesThis just started this afternoon. I was leaving the store to come home, and as I cranked the car and shifted into reverse the power locks went down... then up... then down... then up... then up again... then up again... etc. So I pulled into the parking space and turned it off and then on again, hoping it was just some intermittent issue. No such luck.
Since I was just two miles from home I figured I'd suck it up until I got to the house. About halfway home my car decided it wanted to shift into neutral gear (it was making the same noise you'd get if you manually shifted the car into neutral)... then back into drive... then into neutral... then into drive...it was doing it with the same rhythm as the door locks.
Then the dinging started. As in, a "your door is ajar" ding rather than a "there's a loose bit of metal" ding. It would ding but then stop in mid-ding, kind of like a "DIN*stop* DING DING DING DIN*stop*". At about this time I started hearing a clicking noise coming from somewhere under my dashboard.
Recently my car started to go at a lower speed like around 5-10 mph. Then it started not showing the speed I was going. Then the RPM goes higher and higher and does not come down. I took it to the shop thinking the recall for the ignition switch was going to fix the problem but even after I got the egnition switch fix I was still experiences those issue.s I took it back to the shop to get a diagnostic that cost 100 bucks they told me to get my transmission fixed. After I had gone and done that my car still was experiencing those problems. Also some times the car turns back to normal like it wasn't even having issue everything goes soothly for about a good 2 to 3 miles and it goes back to it's old issues. What I can do or if they are experiencing these issue too? I wondering if I should take it back to the dealers and have them look at it again or not?
View 6 RepliesMy wife was about to pull off of our hill (facing uphill) to go to work. She said she stopped, held on the brake, and looked back and forth. She then went to press the gas and the pedal wouldn't respond (no rev either) but the engine WAS on. The car started drifting backward and she said that both the steering and the brakes were very difficult to control (power and brake assist had disappeared). She was able to guide it back into the driveway and get it parked. She said that when she got it parked, she turned it off and started it up again. She tried the gas and it worked and she tried the steering and brakes and both worked. She stayed home today while we try to figure out what's going on with it for fear that it will happen again.
I initially thought some sort of power loss but she said that the radio stayed on. There were no dash warning lights or sounds indicated to her and she said that there were no unusual sounds from the car during this whole thing.
I have a 2009 cobolt when I put on the brakes slowly there's a rattle noise and some shaking. The ball joints are new and so are the bearings. Could it be bad brakes or a strut?
View 9 RepliesJust came from dealer because of a rattling noise coming from the front end. They said it was caliper piston. They also said its common just that some is not as loud others. They are trying to fix it.
View 1 RepliesThis started several months ago. I can feel it in steering wheel & gas pedal. I thought it was the tires so I put 2 new tires on front, but no change.Tires had no unusual wear. Happens at any speed, worse around curves, left or right. Worse when temp is colder, 55 degrees, better at 75 degrees. Not affected by braking or in coasting neutral. No problem with steering or pulling.
View 2 RepliesExperienced a noise that is evident when the side window is down which seems to coming from underneath the car. It is difficult to describe but it is a ticking / light metallic sound. Possibly coming from the exhaust system area. It is particularly annoying at a drive through window where the sound reflects off the building.
View 7 RepliesI have a rattling noise coming from rear passenger seat. More noticible in cold weather and over bumps.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 Vibe. My niece strattled a dead deer on the highway and I have a rattle noise coming from the rear right tire. Only think is that it's not constant? 9 out of 10 times it's there when I start the car but as drive for 30 or 40 minutes, or longer, it goes away? I had my Uncle look under the car and all he said was that he saw deer hair.
View 3 RepliesSo 2 weeks ago I noticed that after 30 minutes of driving on the highway my steering wheel started making a loud growling noise and vibrating really hard! When I hit the brakes it got worse but got better as I slowed to 30 mph. It doesn't happen all the time and not right away, only after a while of driving and the dealership says without codes they can do nothing...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 suburban . I have a humming noise coming from the rear . It starts at 45mph and then goes away at 47mph. I hear it again between 60-65 mph then goes away . This is a faint sound . When pulling a trailer the sound is much more noticeable and more constant from 55-64 mph . When I let off the gas the sound is still there and fades as the truck slows. Am I dealing with a bad tire ( I plan to rotate them to see if that is the cause ) or a wheel or axle bearing ? To note I replaced the front wheel hub/bearings just about a year ago .
View 2 RepliesEvery 6 weeks my car, a 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt, won't start. Key goes in half way and won't go any further. Key won't come out and it's totally dead. Jump start it and it's good for another 6 weeks or so. What could be causing this?
View 2 RepliesI currently own a 2006 Chevy Cobalt. For the past few months it had a problem that every time I get gas when I go to start the car up I have to pump the gas pedal and crank it at the same time to get it to start running. Once its running I have to either get driving pronto or sit and it park and accelerate it a little for a bit to keep the car running. If I let go of the gas pedal the car will clunk and shut off. If I drive off after a few blocks it’ll work fine and I won’t have the problem again until I put more gas in it. Occasionally when at a light or stop sign while in drive the car will clunk a little but normally stop after few seconds.
I went to AutoZone and they told me I had a pressure thing (can’t remember fully) but to replace the gas cap. Which the car tells every so often to check my gas cap. Well 4-5 gas caps later problem still there. What it could be or how to fix it, last resort is to take it to the mechanic and pay a nice bill for a fix.
I am having an issue with my 2006 Chevy Cobalt. I recently had a new fuel pump put in. Within a week the car would not start. The very next day the car started fine and ran well. The next day it would not start again. The next day, started and ran fine. Then this morning it would not start again. I don't think it can be a faulty fuel pump. What might be the problem?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 Sante Fe AWD 3.5L with 22K on it. The last few days I have been hearing this chirping noise coming from the left rear tire when I am stopped. When I am driving with windows closed or open I do not hear it, but when I pull into my driveway or a parking spot I hear it occasionally. Today, since I am looking out for it I get home, get out of the car and go to the left rear wheel well and sure enough it sounds like a chirping noise. Does not sound like it is mechanical and when I look under the car all seems OK. I put my ear right up to the top of the wheel near the well and I hear it. Sometimes it does not happen..
I suspect the Tire Pressure Monitoring System.....
Make: Chevy Model: Cobalt LS Year: 2005 Mileage: 120000
So I'm having this problem with my engine stalling at low RPM. The RPM goes to 0 and the engine shuts off.
This only happens when traveling at low speeds (e.g. slowly accelerating from a stop, braking, moving in stop and go traffic)
This NEVER happens when I'm traveling above 10 mph (e.g. if I'm coasting at 40 and let my foot off the gas, the RPM can go to 500 RPM but it will never stall in this case).
After the stall, I can always put the car in park, turn the ignition and it will turn back on again.
I have not noticed any electrical problems that occur when this happens (the radio stays on during the stall and the lights don't dim).
My car was part of that Chevy ignition switch recall, but I took it to the dealership which (hopefully) repaired it.
My Chevy Cobalt will not start when it is cold (when water freezes)...but only sometimes. When you go to start the engine, it will initially turn over but does not ignite. Then, the second time if you turn the key normally no sound will emit. However, if you put the key in and only turn to get the lights on the dash to come on and THEN turn the key, it will turn over, but no dice. This past time a code "engine pwr reduced" came up, but that doesn't always happen. When you wait four hours or more, it will start like normal accompanied by the check engine light. The check engine light goes off the second time you start it after the non-start.
I have taken it to a mechanic and they have not been able to reproduce the problem, even when it was cold enough to theoretically have happened. He said it might be an issue with the body module which explains why the ignition switch code comes up when you run it through a computer, but since this is such an expensive fix he said he can't recommend I get it done until we know for sure. So there is a pattern, this happens about every 2 months and then the issue clears up for a while.
What is going on??? Will there ever be a way to tell what is wrong (and fix it) without a mechanic reproducing the issue?
Ran my battery down on my car when I left my lights on and proceeded to work an 8-hour shift.
Came out and stuck my key in the ignition. Nothing happened, which is when I realized my plight. The dang ignition wouldn't release my key! This meant I couldn't get into the trunk by key. I pressed the (stupidly electric) remote trunk lock. That's where the jumper cables are! Did I mention it was below freezing and I wasn't dressed for sustained outdoor shenanigans?
Fortunately, I was able to flag down co-workers with jumper cables, after a time. We opened the hood--praises, they actually left a cable-actuated device on the car!--and got going. None the less, it was a close scare.
1) Why does the ignition "grab" the key without battery power?
2) How does one defeat 1)?
3) Is it necessary to store my jumper cables INSIDE the car?
4) What mental giant decided a trunk latch that's INOP with a dead battery was a good idea?
I have a decent working understanding of a lock cylinder--6 or so spring-loaded wafers that retract into the cylinder body, allowing it to turn--but I don't see how that requires current flow to work. If it's a "safety" feature, how do I disable it, permanently?
2008 Chevy Cobalt
The fan for my A/c and heat does not turn on anymore. The A/c and heating systems themselves do work because if I put my hand right up against the vent I can feel it. When I switch on the fan, there is no noise, no humming either. This happened over the course of two days where first the fan worked fine, then it took a little while to turn on, then it would only turn on if I put it on high and waited a long time, then it didn't turn on at all.
Since then I have not tried to turn the fan on for more than a few minutes to see if I can get it to work again because I'm concerned that the trapped heat or A/c might damage something inside (am I correct?).
My wife recently got stuck in a snowstorm. Some people got her out and she drove a couple miles to work. After leaving work, her car started shaking at red lights (like big, slow shakes, back and forth, not making forward progress), but stopped as soon as she started to move or put the car in neutral. It did this on her way home from work and then continued when she left for a workout class about half an hour later. However, after this, it stopped completely.
Some people seemed to suggest engine mount problems to other people, which seems serious if it is that. However, since it did stop after a short time, is it possible there was snow stuck somewhere causing a problem and it finally just melted off? Or is the getting stuck in snow the same day probably just a coincidence? It seems odd that it would stop once the brake is let up.
Right now I'm planning to take it in sometime later this week most likely, but am wondering if I can avoid that since it hasn't exhibited any of the same symptoms for a few days. The car is a 2010 Chevy Cobalt.