Chevrolet - Classic - Transmissions :: 1970 - Stuck In Gear
Mar 17, 2012
I went to drive my 1970 Nova today and after driving it for about 15 seconds it seemed to stick in second gear. I cannot get it to go into neutral to be able to put it into any other gear including reverse. The shifter is on the floor. I have no clue what is going on- If it's something with the linkage between the shifter and the transmission or something with the clutch. It has never acted this way before and gave no indication that a problem was on the horizon.
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My girlfriend's 2001 cavalier has about 160k on it and about a week ago it started shifting harshly accelerating to highway speeds and the CEL came on along with the traction control/abs warning light. I pulled the OBD2 code and it was P0742, Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On. We took it to the transmission shop down the street the next day and they wanted $600 to diagnose. We called 'shenanigans' and decided she should take it to her regular shop. On the drive over the transmission shifted normally. Both shops noticed that the transmission cooler lines were rusty and seeping, but neither thought it was the cause of the problem. The shifting issue hasn't recurred even after a couple hundred miles during the week. She hasn't had the transmission fluid changed and doesn't know if it had been when she bought it about 80k miles ago. It seems to me that pre-emptively draining the fluid, changing the filter and refilling, especially to check for debris in the fluid, would make sense, especially if it was debris jamming the circuit that caused the error code in the first place.
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2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 (automatic) - When I bought it used, it shifted fine, has no issues other than the transfer case wouldn't engage every time. A few months later my overhead console display lights went out, then all the dash lights such as engine, 4x4, the gauges started lighting up and acting weird randomly, then a week later the truck started shifting funny.
Now 90% of the time, the truck won't start in 1st gear, it starts in 2nd, then while accelerating up to 30-35mph it will shift up way too soon and bog down, then shit back down to 2nd, then shift up again, and continue until it hits 30-35, then it fails to shift into overdrive. Also when coming to a stop, it kicks down a gear (into 2nd I assume) pretty hard and clanks pretty loud around 2mph just before a complete stop.
Weird thing is every once in awhile, it will go away and shift normal but the engine light is usually lit up during normal shifting.Could it be the ECM causing all these weird things?
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I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
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My 1970 chevy c10 pickup is a 350 with automatic transmission 2wd. It doesn't get driven frequently and when I do the first time I put it into gear, fwd or reverse, it is slow to engage. Shortly after it has warmed up however, this problem goes away. What this sounds like?
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Early 70's Ford Truck w/Dana 20 Xfer case
The problem is that when I put the truck in 4W Low, it will sometimes slip out of gear into 4W Neutral. It happens more often when climbing hills than driving on level ground. It hasn't ever slipped out of 4W High. It is drivable the way it is, but it's annoying. If there were an easy fix I'd do it. If I have to remove the xfer case, that seems like a big job, so probably not. What do you think?
The manual suggests these four as possible reasons
Shifting poppet spring weak.
Bearing broken or worn.
Shifting fork bent.
Improper control rod adjustment.
Which is the most likely problem? What is the "poppet" for and where is it located? Can anything be done to diagnose or fix this problem w/out removing the xfer case from the vehicle? What about the control rod? Can it be adjusted with the xfer case installed? If so, where is that adjusted?
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My 1970 Nova has a very stiff clutch pedal. Is it possible to adjust the tension on it? It's getting to the point where it makes my foot sore to drive the thing- very annoying. It has a 3 speed on the floor gear-shift.
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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It has a floor shifter for the xfer case with 2wd, 4wd-H,and 4wd-L, and Neutral positions. It works fine in the 2wd and the 4wd-H positions. The problem is it sometimes slips out of 4wd-L position into 4wd-Neutral, which I have just lived with, but it is annoying. I think I heard this is a known problem with these 1970's Ford xfer cases, and the fix involves removing the xfer case and replacing a part.
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I have a 67 chevelle and it runs great but after driving it a while it starts backfiring. I think it is when it gets hot, is this possible and why is it running hot. It is a straight 6. 3 on a tree. Smaller engine like a 250 or something. Original engine and everything. I have had the car since I was 16, now I am 40. Somehow I still don't know how to fix it.
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My 77 Nova sedan has been leaking motor oil from where the motor and transmission meet, around the oil pan region. I have been told it is the rear main seal but I would like to get some more opinions as to what might be the cause to the leak.
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1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
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I drive an 05 Chevy Classic (that's an '04 Malibu made in '05), and it's never given me problems (though I've only had it about 2 years). This morning, I can't get it going. The engine turns over when I turn the key (though some of the time it takes several moments), but then as soon as I let go of the key, the engine dies. I tried giving it gas, but this doesn't seem to make a difference. After a couple of tries I noticed that the dashboard lights weren't coming on. They usually all light up while the starter runs, and I can at least get them to light most of the time when the key is turned to "on". None of this works. The power windows will open and close when I have the key turned to on, so the electrical system works somewhat.
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1995 Chevy Saburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working.
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How to fix a gear shift that tends to get stuck once in awhile. What about WD, and how would you apply it? I have a '97 Monte Carlo.
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So I went outside yesterday, an hour after getting home from an hour drive. I find a PUDDLE of transmission fluid under my car. The only place WET under the car, however, is under the passenger side (where the antifreeze is). When the flat bed tow truck arrived and lifted the car onto the truck, there was a line of fluid that leaked out where the car was pulled onto the bed at an angle. When I spoke to the mechanic this morning he said he can't find a leak anywhere. My transmission fluid is full as is my antifreeze. So where did the leak come from and why isn't it happening now?
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I have a Chevy Classic 2005, and I noticed today that a brake light on the right side is not working when I push down on the brake pedal. It looks like there are two bulbs in the right side brake light, the one that's not working being the rightmost one. However, this particular bulb does turn on when I use my Car remote to lock/unlock my Car. Does this mean that the bulb is functioning and the problem lies elsewhere, or should I replace the bulb? I had some repairs done to the brake light on the side in question last month after an accident that damaged he light covers, so I am wondering if I should contact the repair center in case it's related to the repair.
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I rebuilt my turbo 350 transmission. I drove it about two blocks and checked my fluids. Everything was fine. So I drove it down town....two or three miles and I lost all gears forward and reverse. I got a ride home and left the car for about three hours then I went back to get it. The transmission shifted fine as i drove it home. I have parked the car since i cant trust the trans not to break down. As I drove to town I noticed a slight vibration in the trans area.
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I have a 1996 Toyota camry and a 2005 chev classic. Both have 125,000 miles both need tires. The chef has had nothing serious done to it. I have replaced the master cylinder, radiator, timing belt, and water pump on the Toyota. I must sell one of them, but which one to sell?
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My Chevy Malibu is having a bit of trouble.
When I drive on inclines my reservoir leaks. It did it way more when I lived up a hill, but since I've moved to a more flat area, I barely see it.
A more serious issue I am having is with my ignition/gear shift. When I try to turn the car off it will not go to the OFF position. If I wiggle the handle, it will then go off.
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I had an '83 Chevy Malibu Classic that slowly lost power until it was nearly undrivable. I rebuilt or replaced every fuel or spark related item I could think of. I finally had the catalytic converter and O-2 sensor replaced. It ran better, then the problem returned about 8,000 miles later. Disconnecting briefly the exhaust did not work. This suggested that I was sold a new converter for nothing, but the mechanic must have done something to get it to run better. The question is: what was the problem and what did the mechanic do to improve it? (hint: I had indications of coolant contamination in the valve covers, any connection?)
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