Chevrolet - Classic - Caprice :: Airflow Changing Under Light To Moderate Acceleration - Heater Controls?
Jan 24, 2011
For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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I put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
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The leak looked like it was coming from a heater hose. The individual I bought it from said he fixed it and it wasn't leaking the day I bought it. Upon driving it home...cranked the heat up and windows fogged, switched to defog with no luck. Added some coolant and still the same thing and leak began again.
It smells like antifreeze inside and fog has oily feeling when wiping it off the window. Got in on the lift and no luck seeing where it was leaking from, even with it running. My previous experience with bad heater cores is that it leaks on the inside and smells like coolant... is it leaking on the outside or is it something else?
It's NOT overheating or blowing any kind of smoke. Temp gauge read normal! It's a 4.3L, 1994 Caprice LS .....
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Last summer the car would randomly overheat and we would switch the heater on and the temp needle would nose dive into normal range in 30 seconds. It made me think that maybe it wasn't really overheating.
This summer its started again. It gets almost into the red within minutes of driving it. There have been times where I turned and the needle went from almost the red zone to the normal range. Making me think its not overheating, but that nagging feeling tells me I need to know for sure.
The car will overheat within a few minutes. There were no visible leaks. I replaced upper and lower radiator hoses and refilled lost fluids. Driving it the first time, the upper radiator hose popped off and overheated. I initially thought it was the clamp being faulty so I bought a new clamp. Installed new clamp. Same thing. Same hose popped off again. Put it back on and its leaking fluid around the hose some how.
I know the lower hose has a coil in it to prevent collapse, should the upper too (haven't seen it collapse)? Why might it be leaking around the hose?
Next is the thermostat. That will be replaced this weekend. I'm pretty confident that it isn't the engine block cracked or a bad head gasket.
How should I remedy this hose issue and what course of action should I go for next? Water pump?
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I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
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Last year, around Jan/Feb, our temperatures dropped down to about -30F, and I had a weird issue where my brakes literally froze. I couldn't push them at all. I let the car sit for a few minutes, and started slowly pumping the brakes, and eventually got them freed up.
A few months later, the brake line going to the rear popped. I eventually got it replaced. Then a few months later, the front brakes started scraping and squealing, and so I replaced the front pads and calipers about two weeks ago.
Now, the other day I was slowing down to make a turn, and my brakes completely went out. When they did, I heard a pop from up by the engine. I pulled over, lifted the hood, and there was brake fluid covering my hood, abs unit, and a small amount on the engine.
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On my 86 caprice classic. the gas Gauge jumps to full when i turn the key even when car is started but its only like a gallon of gas in there is it the sending unit the ground or something else and is there any way to test it.
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I have a Chevy Classic 2005, and I noticed today that a brake light on the right side is not working when I push down on the brake pedal. It looks like there are two bulbs in the right side brake light, the one that's not working being the rightmost one. However, this particular bulb does turn on when I use my Car remote to lock/unlock my Car. Does this mean that the bulb is functioning and the problem lies elsewhere, or should I replace the bulb? I had some repairs done to the brake light on the side in question last month after an accident that damaged he light covers, so I am wondering if I should contact the repair center in case it's related to the repair.
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I'm starting to notice some squeaking sounds while changing the airflow for the AC. Pretty much all of the options will make a sound, but especially changing from Head+feet to head only, and vice versa.
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I have the classic ticking sound on acceleration. I had a muffler shop check it out and the tech said he thinks the passenger side exhaust manifold has a leak. I have already replaced the whole manifold and cat on the drivers side. Could it be just the gasket? The ticking is coming from the top near the engine and not the cat. Is it a pain to replace the gasket?
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I have a 67 chevelle and it runs great but after driving it a while it starts backfiring. I think it is when it gets hot, is this possible and why is it running hot. It is a straight 6. 3 on a tree. Smaller engine like a 250 or something. Original engine and everything. I have had the car since I was 16, now I am 40. Somehow I still don't know how to fix it.
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My 77 Nova sedan has been leaking motor oil from where the motor and transmission meet, around the oil pan region. I have been told it is the rear main seal but I would like to get some more opinions as to what might be the cause to the leak.
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I drive an 05 Chevy Classic (that's an '04 Malibu made in '05), and it's never given me problems (though I've only had it about 2 years). This morning, I can't get it going. The engine turns over when I turn the key (though some of the time it takes several moments), but then as soon as I let go of the key, the engine dies. I tried giving it gas, but this doesn't seem to make a difference. After a couple of tries I noticed that the dashboard lights weren't coming on. They usually all light up while the starter runs, and I can at least get them to light most of the time when the key is turned to "on". None of this works. The power windows will open and close when I have the key turned to on, so the electrical system works somewhat.
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I went to drive my 1970 Nova today and after driving it for about 15 seconds it seemed to stick in second gear. I cannot get it to go into neutral to be able to put it into any other gear including reverse. The shifter is on the floor. I have no clue what is going on- If it's something with the linkage between the shifter and the transmission or something with the clutch. It has never acted this way before and gave no indication that a problem was on the horizon.
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So I went outside yesterday, an hour after getting home from an hour drive. I find a PUDDLE of transmission fluid under my car. The only place WET under the car, however, is under the passenger side (where the antifreeze is). When the flat bed tow truck arrived and lifted the car onto the truck, there was a line of fluid that leaked out where the car was pulled onto the bed at an angle. When I spoke to the mechanic this morning he said he can't find a leak anywhere. My transmission fluid is full as is my antifreeze. So where did the leak come from and why isn't it happening now?
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I rebuilt my turbo 350 transmission. I drove it about two blocks and checked my fluids. Everything was fine. So I drove it down town....two or three miles and I lost all gears forward and reverse. I got a ride home and left the car for about three hours then I went back to get it. The transmission shifted fine as i drove it home. I have parked the car since i cant trust the trans not to break down. As I drove to town I noticed a slight vibration in the trans area.
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I have a 1996 Toyota camry and a 2005 chev classic. Both have 125,000 miles both need tires. The chef has had nothing serious done to it. I have replaced the master cylinder, radiator, timing belt, and water pump on the Toyota. I must sell one of them, but which one to sell?
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Was back east this past weekend seeing some family. Went out with a friend of mine, who has lent me his 2011 DSG GTI APR Stage 1(car currently has 24k miles) many times in the past and it has always performed flawlessly.
We were out the other night and the car hesitated under moderate acceleration between 3500-4500rpm in second and third gears. It almost felt as though it was bucking a little, really odd. The hesitation comes in threes or fours, then moves on in the revs.
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My Chevy Malibu is having a bit of trouble.
When I drive on inclines my reservoir leaks. It did it way more when I lived up a hill, but since I've moved to a more flat area, I barely see it.
A more serious issue I am having is with my ignition/gear shift. When I try to turn the car off it will not go to the OFF position. If I wiggle the handle, it will then go off.
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2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
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So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
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