Chevrolet - Cavalier :: Starts But Immediately Dies When The Weather Is Cold
Dec 15, 2014
I have a 1991 Chevy Cavalier. It usually runs fine, but recently the weather has been colder and it is having issues when I start it in the morning. Granted, I live in Florida so "cold" is only in the 40s. The car will start, but then it immediately dies. I had taken to a mechanic (a family friend) and he said that it was fine the whole time he had it and didn't recommend any repairs. It was running fine for about 2 weeks and now it is doing it again. It does appear to only be doing this when it is cold out, because the issue began when we got our first cold snap.
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I have a 2005 Cavalier (60,000 miles) that's been having some transmission slipping in the cold weather. As the weather has warmed up, the issue has lessened but not quite gone away. We added a little transmission fluid, but I haven't yet had a chance to replace the fluid/filter. The check engine light has been on in my car since I've owned it... the shop I bought it from replaced the solenoid, but the code still hung around. Everything I've googled tells me that the issue could be the wiring or could be the solenoid needing replacing. My real question is... how soon do I need to act on this? p0741 p2761
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I have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
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I'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
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1999 4-runner 6-cylinder. starts and then immediately dies.
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I have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
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I have a 1961 International Scout 80. I picked it up about a month ago and have been working on it ever since. It has been running a little rough but ok. Carb definitely could use at least a cleaning. Recent history is as follows...Brought home a month ago. replaced clutch hydraulics and rebuilt rear brakes 3 weeks ago. Began rewiring 2 weeks ago including removing dash, choke and throttle cables.
Completed rewiring of engine and lights and most of dash. Some wires are still left open. Since replacing the clutch hydraulics I have been starting it up every few days to drive from a parking space, about 100 ft, to the garage. 2 days ago after finishing working for the night I drove and parked it. The next morning it will not run. It starts and then immediately dies. I know there is a number of things it could be I just don't know the best way to go about diagnosing the issue.
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When I try to crank the truck , it starts and immediately dies. This happened several times. The last attempt I began patting the accelerator when I turned the key. The truck cranked and I was able to keep it running by feathering the throttle. it ran rough. At higher RPM it ran ok. When I let it idle it idled rough. After engine warmed it idles and runs fine. Engine started without trouble when warm.
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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About once or twice a month my 2000 Trailblazer dies immediately on starting. Will not start again for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes rest it always restarts. Never dies while running. Have had fuel pump replaced about five years ago. Condition has been occurring about that long though and has progressed from once each 3 or 4 months to its current rate. Can occur after setting all night or after having just run and shut down for a very short time. Natural assumption would be fuel pump but as it always restarts on second attempt after 10 minute rest is there any possibility it could be a computer malfunction that takes that long to reset?
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Have a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
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When I start my car it bogs down, dies, & the battery & oil light come on. I am able to start it & rev it up & then go but will die & I do the same then it goes, but recently acts as if it is dying while driving.It started a couple weeks ago while I was driving but restarted & figured it was the battery as it was old & tested badly. I bought a new battery, changed the oil, & air filter for maintenance & it ran fine for a could weeks.Now it is wise than when it started & dies more often.Do you think it could be the plug & wires or alternator?Do not feel like spending a lot of money to go through every part.1999 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L 5 speed.
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Our car starts, then dies. It starts fine, then dies. This only happens in warm weather, which we have finally been experiencing in Northern Illinois. It eventually gets to the point where we can drive it, but then might die at a stop sign, or it can go the rest of the day and not have any difficulties. I know later models have timing chains, not belts. Does our car have a timing belt problem or maybe fuel pump? And why only in warm weather?
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
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I recently bought this cavalier about a week ago its and 88 automatic trans with 1.8 4 cylinder I thing not that it matters much. I noticed the exhaust had a smaller pipe from the manifold and the rest was strung with a bit bigger pipe and was attempted to crimp the pipes togather it was loud so I crimped thhe pipes better and used exhaust glue to patch the holes it runs better now to a point. but when I start the car it revs up a fair im guessing 3 grand since I have no rpm gauge but then it dies down to a low idle to the point were the car shakes a little bit.
with the exhaust fixed I can get it up to 20 kilometres an hour with my foot off the gas when I turn fully it wants to lurch ahead/backwards. when I took it out for a highway drive today I came to a stop sign so I slowed and stoped and the car stalled out. started no problem. but I also tried later putting it in neutral and it doesn't stall as I role to a stop it doesn't shake in neutral. I would like to have this fixed but I need some pointers as of were to look. im not sure if this means anything but when I got the car it had a bad enough radiator fluid leak at the hose meeting the heating car on the engine side of the fire wall I repaired that and no longer leaks.
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I recently bought a 2004 V10 TDI. When it is quite cold outside, below -15C my Treg will not start, it starts sometimes but will stall immediately. I cannot get it started unless I wait a few days until it is warmer out. When I start it, I wait for the glow plug light to go out but it only takes less than a second, is that normal? I am thinking its the diesel gelling and I need to add an additive to it possibly, or do I need to replace my glow plugs. If I am persistent, I can sometimes get it going after 10 or 12 attempts but I feel I am going to overheat the starter so I am scared to do that often, once started, it runs fine but has tons of CEL codes which are all glow plug errors, I will clear them off, and they will not return.
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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The cold air box is a black plastic box that sits forward of the engine/valve cover. It connects via black plastic tube to the air filter box on one end and to the engine on the other. I took it off it. 'Lo and behold it was full of oil.
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Since our weather has turned cold with lows just above 0ºF and highs around 10ºF, and we've had 9" of snow this week, I have been driving a seldom used 1994 LeSabre rather than my "nice" car, an '08 Grand Marquis. There's no point in exposing the newer car to salt and slick streets. At least the interstates are completely cleared off. The LeSabre runs great despite its 177K miles. The only issue I have with the Buick is that it has died repeatedly after a 20 mile run up or down the interstate. I lift my foot or tap the brake pedal to turn off the cruise control, and the engine dies. The first time it did it, I pulled over, stopped, put it in park and restarted it. Now that I know what it's doing, I keep rolling, put it in neutral, and restart it before getting to the bottom of the ramp. I does it ALMOST every time after a long 65 to 70 MPH run. It was not doing it the last time I drove it at more bearable temperatures, in the 40s or 50s so it may not be a problem next week. It does not seem to do it going from stop light to stop light, even at low temperatures. It has the 3.8 Liter V-6. Why it might be doing this?
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I'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
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It will start only in cold days and it does not have the check engine light. The dealership clear some codes, but they were not sure that the code had something to do with it. I have replace Spark plugs and wires. But that wasn't it. And it just winter just start it here in minnesota.
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