Chevrolet - Camaro :: Engine Overheating Warning Light Came On
Aug 24, 2016
I keep good maintenance for my car. Just had the 45,000 mile major tune up also. However, the engine overheating light came on the other day - said I should idle until it cooled down. I was just about to park, so I did that and left to do some shopping. When I came back and started the drive home the light came on again and indicated I should stop and turn the engine off. I drove two more blocks and put the car in the garage. I noticed what I thought was some leakage on the garage floor also. Next AM, I had it towed to the dealership since I'd checked the coolant dipstick and it looked EMPTY!. Dealership tested it out and could find nothing wrong - no leaks, no computer faults either. They sent me on my way and neither warning light has come on since. I've kept an eye on the engine temperature gauge and it hovers around 200F - mid range on the gauge. No further problems. Funny thing is, now my A/C seems to operate better!
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My '97 camaro has a cracked cylinder. (or something like that; the water keeps getting "consumed" by the engine). my mechanic put something in it that temporarily "sealed" the crack. it bought me more time but now it's not holding on to any water. My question is, can i do this again and is it something i can do myself?
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I just picked up my new 2014 Chevrolet Camaro with the V6 and 6 speed manual transmission. If I just punch the gas pedal when in neutral, the engine almost dies for just a second but then rev's up normally. It seems like a burst of gas chocks out the engine. I have tried the same thing in other Camaro's and the engine rev's up normally as soon as you punch the gas pedal.
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I have a 1984 camaro z28 305 that has problems with overheating. In temperatures below 70 degrees I don't have problems but above this temp I do. I put in a new radiator, thermostat, water pump (OEM), added an extra electric fan, and put the transmission on a seperate cooler. The engine was rebuilt a about 5 years and I think I had some problem with the over heating even before the rebuild. I park the car during the summer because I can't stand driving with the heat on in the middle of summer to keep the engine cooler.Would a high flow water pump work or what else can I look for?
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My service engine light comes on after my camero has been running for a little while some times it takes about 1o minutes before it comes on it runs like there's no problems with it. I know there's a way to check it with a paper clip but I forgot what spots to put it in to get the codes. Its a 1989 camero r/s 305 tpi
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My 1995 chevy camaro has been overheating. at first i thought it was the thermostat sticking because there was no spewing or smoking so i changed the thermostat and my car was still over heating. I finally found out that the water pump was leaking fluids. so I changed out the water pump and filled it full of coolant. i turned on my car and within 10 minutes the gauge went up to 260 degrees and went down a little bit but stayed around 260, there was no spewing or leaking or smoking again. I was thinking that maybe now it could be the sensor but im not sure.
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I got a 1986 Camaro 5 speed 350 4 barrel carb and the check engine light flashes on and off, when it comes on the engine idles really low and when it goes off it runs normal. I've changed the ignition control module twice already because it wouldn't start. i change the ignition coil because thought that was messing the module up. I hooked a obd ll and 1scanner too the car but wouldn't respond.
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How to reset the service engine soon light at home without hooking it up to a code reader. I've tried disconnecting the battery and that didnt work.
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My Phaeton (V8) is overheating when the outside temperature is around 0 C (+/-10 C).
It rises all the way to 130 C, the warning signs comes up, it stays there for about a minute and than the fans kick on and the T goes back to normal.
It has been doing that for the last three years intermittently in the spring and fall.
This season it is getting more persistent and it is occurring pretty much every time I use the car (usually not more that once per cycle, a cycle being from the time the engine is started to shut down).
The dealership can't seem to find the problem. The thermostat was replaced at the same time that the water pump and timing belt were replaced and it did not solved the problem.
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Car was running fine on friday when I left for detroit, it sat in my driveway all weekend, but on the way to work this morning I get a warning light to STOP and my temp gauge is right below 260. It took about 10 miles for the light to come on and the car does NOT overheat while idling. The car is only at 52k and I have not replaced the water pump/timing belt yet.
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My 2013 Elantra twice now has almost overheated. About a month ago i had the software patch related to the cooling fan done. Since then, twice the temp almost hit max and the warning light came on. Both times i had driven it in 80 degree weather with 3 short trips to various stores. Both times the air conditioning seemed to stop working and the gauge started to rise to max. The second time i turned off the car and restarted it and everything returned to normal. If it happens again i will check to see if the cooling fan is on. It seems to me that turning it off and on to fix would be a software glitch. The car has 30000 miles on it.
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This happened all of a sudden today, engine i think is getting overheated. Like in the image below i see the red warning sign and temperature meter is all the way to "H". Well it keeps fluctuating. So i checked coolant oil and found it was empty so re-filled it beyond 'F' and i think it spilled it and was empty again. So this time i refilled the coolant oil up to 'F' and it stayed. But engine won't stop getting hot(i just did a couple miles after the second refill).
There is another problem with the air condition. IT blows cold air sometimes and normal air sometimes. Looks the compressor is turning off(i am really not sure). IS there a chance of any loose connection at the compressor ? If the freon is empty it should blow normal air continuously but it's not doing that. It keeps switching.
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
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2000 Camaro, v6 auto, 103000 miles, 2 years ago car started making a roaring noise in the rear. the faster i go the louder it gets. if i let off the gas it almost goes away. at high speed over 90 the rear vibrates. noticed today that if i push on rear fender there is a clunking noise coming from rear wheel. checked lug nuts and they are tight. Is it unsafe to drive?
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I've seen lots of posts about the traction battery regarding cooling fan speeds, sensors, overheating, under charged, but is there a dash light that warns the batteries are overheating before they are damaged ? I'm worried about someone riding in the back of the car, covering the vent and causing battery damage. It is hard to see if they are covering the vents when you are sitting in the front driver seat.
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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I have a 1979 Chevy Camaro and whenever I turn the car on so it only lights up my dash, my RPM gauge goes all over the place, and the engine isn't even turn on yet. And also before i even put the keys in the ignition, the RPM is sitting at 10.
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2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
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I have a 1994 V6 Chevrolet Camaro with ~197K miles. Recently I have noticed that after starting the engine it idles rougher than normal and also as I accelerate, especially between 45 and 65 mph. Several things have just been replaced and/or fixed: spark plugs, spark plug cables, oil, coil packs, water pump, & thermostat. I regularly use premium gasoline and when for some reason a lower octane is used I add an octane booster. Since this problem arose I tried a fuel system cleaner; it hasn't worked thus far. The last time something like this happened, I took my Camaro to a trusted repair shop and when being diagnosed its' cylinder chambers and many different lines flooded with fuel. After replacing the fuel regulator my car returned to normal.
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