Chevrolet - Camaro :: Cracked Cylinder - Water Keeps Getting Consumed By The Engine
Apr 6, 2011
My '97 camaro has a cracked cylinder. (or something like that; the water keeps getting "consumed" by the engine). my mechanic put something in it that temporarily "sealed" the crack. it bought me more time but now it's not holding on to any water. My question is, can i do this again and is it something i can do myself?
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I keep good maintenance for my car. Just had the 45,000 mile major tune up also. However, the engine overheating light came on the other day - said I should idle until it cooled down. I was just about to park, so I did that and left to do some shopping. When I came back and started the drive home the light came on again and indicated I should stop and turn the engine off. I drove two more blocks and put the car in the garage. I noticed what I thought was some leakage on the garage floor also. Next AM, I had it towed to the dealership since I'd checked the coolant dipstick and it looked EMPTY!. Dealership tested it out and could find nothing wrong - no leaks, no computer faults either. They sent me on my way and neither warning light has come on since. I've kept an eye on the engine temperature gauge and it hovers around 200F - mid range on the gauge. No further problems. Funny thing is, now my A/C seems to operate better!
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I just picked up my new 2014 Chevrolet Camaro with the V6 and 6 speed manual transmission. If I just punch the gas pedal when in neutral, the engine almost dies for just a second but then rev's up normally. It seems like a burst of gas chocks out the engine. I have tried the same thing in other Camaro's and the engine rev's up normally as soon as you punch the gas pedal.
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Just did a tear out and rebuild, installed motor, filled with water. Water is leaking out of the back of the engine somewhere. Leaking as if it were coming out of a 1/4" diameter hole. 1997 V4.6L F150. I guess I have to pull it no matter what. Cracked block? Freeze plugs were all new and installed by machine shop. Initial reason for pulling was water in cylinders and I assumed blow head gasket.
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My 1995 chevy camaro has been overheating. at first i thought it was the thermostat sticking because there was no spewing or smoking so i changed the thermostat and my car was still over heating. I finally found out that the water pump was leaking fluids. so I changed out the water pump and filled it full of coolant. i turned on my car and within 10 minutes the gauge went up to 260 degrees and went down a little bit but stayed around 260, there was no spewing or leaking or smoking again. I was thinking that maybe now it could be the sensor but im not sure.
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
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2000 Camaro, v6 auto, 103000 miles, 2 years ago car started making a roaring noise in the rear. the faster i go the louder it gets. if i let off the gas it almost goes away. at high speed over 90 the rear vibrates. noticed today that if i push on rear fender there is a clunking noise coming from rear wheel. checked lug nuts and they are tight. Is it unsafe to drive?
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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I have a 1979 Chevy Camaro and whenever I turn the car on so it only lights up my dash, my RPM gauge goes all over the place, and the engine isn't even turn on yet. And also before i even put the keys in the ignition, the RPM is sitting at 10.
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2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
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I have a 1994 V6 Chevrolet Camaro with ~197K miles. Recently I have noticed that after starting the engine it idles rougher than normal and also as I accelerate, especially between 45 and 65 mph. Several things have just been replaced and/or fixed: spark plugs, spark plug cables, oil, coil packs, water pump, & thermostat. I regularly use premium gasoline and when for some reason a lower octane is used I add an octane booster. Since this problem arose I tried a fuel system cleaner; it hasn't worked thus far. The last time something like this happened, I took my Camaro to a trusted repair shop and when being diagnosed its' cylinder chambers and many different lines flooded with fuel. After replacing the fuel regulator my car returned to normal.
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I own a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z with a 5.7 350 TPI motor. I was driving the car onto I-95 at a speed of 65 when I heard a loud boom under my car, and pulled over to see what had happened. I couldn't see what happened, so I drove the car slowly to a friends garage to find the exhaust pipe from the converter back to the muffler had split and blew apart. I took my car to another shop to repair the pipe, but when I left the shop after the repair, I accellerated to about 40 mile per hour, I get another loud backfire and loss of power. The pipe is still intact, but I cannot figure out what is causing the backfire. My friend from the first garage says it is a failing fuel pump. I never heard of such a thing to be honest.I am at a loss and I have to correct the issue soon, as this is my only car to drive.
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Recently I had an incident were my car was hit while parked in front of our house. I heard my alarm go off when I got outside my Rav4 had a nice size dent in the driver's side front bumper. Prior calling my insurance company I went out to my car to start it and could not fit my key in the ignition. I then called my insurance company and had it towed to the auto shop. Along with my exterior body damage I had a cracked ignition lock cylinder. After everything was done it was determined by the mechanic that he did not believe the cracked ignition lock cylinder could have happen from the car being hit. I am wondering could this have been because of the accident and if not how else this might have happen? I was parked on our hill beside our house and have no details about the vehicle that hit mine as I did not see it. I just don't know how else to explain the cracked cylinder since it was not a problem prior to the accident.
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I have a 98 camaro z28 and im having some problems with my rear end. I am positive its a limited slip. Ive removed the cover from differential and know what a lsd looks like. My problem is when i turn and hit the gas only 1 tire spins. But if im going straight and hit the gas both tires spins. When i say spin i mean break loose. I removed the cover tonight and took a look. No metal shavings at all. It all looks in good conditon. It has a 390 gear in it. Owner before me put it in. I removed the calipers and the axels have a little play in them. About a quarter inch play going in and out. Was wondering if this was normal. Also while it was jacked up i could hold one wheel while spinning the other. And if i play with it i can make the back left tire spin by its self also not making the ring gear move. Is it normal for a wheel to spin and the ring gear not move? I have a lot of questions about differentials. But mainly why am i only getting one tire to spin when turning?
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The owner's manual for my 2010 Camaro states that the passenger seat height can be adjusted by pumping the handle used to slide the seat forward and backward. However, pumping the handle does not change the seat height.
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I recently bought a 1991 Pontiac Firebird Formula 5.7L TPI with 124k. We was driving it home when noticed it was getting really hot (240-250). We pulled over at a gas station and gased it and let it cool off. We had been driving in the city at about 4 o clock for about 7 miles if that makes a difference. When it cooled we tried again. We got about another mile and the temperature would stay down so we pulled back over. We inspected it. The oil pressure showed really zero but we checked the dipstick and it looked okay. The engine sounded normal and the radiator is fairly new. The fan was blowing. We noticed that after it cooled off if you hit the gas the oil pressure would go up (similar to a tachometer...i thought that was weird). After if got cooled and we got on the open highway the temperature stayed normal and the car performed like it should. We think its the thermostat but are not sure.
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I have a 1997 Camaro Z28 with 37,000 miles. A year ago it developed a problem of not starting after driving and being warmed up. The best description is when running errands, after the 2nd or 3rd stop, it will not start. If I let it sit for a couple of hours, then it will finally start, but I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. If it sits overnight, it starts like a brand new car. When the problem happens, the starter is engaging and the engine is cranking. I have had a mechanic spend hours trying to diagnose this and has had no luck, partially due to the intermittent problem. The car is an automatic, not a six speed.
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1999 Camaro V6 125K miles. Occasionally overheats. No noticeable coolant leak. Was pressure tested and passed. Mechanic suggested new radiator cap. New cap installed and was fine for a while then overheated again and problem seems to have intensified. Will a compression test reveal anything regarding this problem?
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When I turn my headlights on idle the motor kills. At higher RPM engine still runs and lights will start to blink.
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