I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
View 2 RepliesRecently I had my check engine light come on in my car as well as a service light. My car is at 140,000 miles and I drive it around the county for work so I knew I would have some expensive repairs in my future. My stepdad disconnected my car battery and then reconnected it which caused the light to go out so my mechanic was not able to read the code to find the issue. (We did find that my service light was coming on right before my headlight went out so I replaced the bulb and have not had the service light come back on since.)
My mechanic let me know my catalytic converter pipe was rusting and falling on my exhaust and gave me an estimate for the cost of a new pipe, O2 sensor and labor charge. He quoted the catalytic converter pipe at $304.25 and with everything else involved, the total for my estimate came to $521.00.
I have read before that some people suggested possibly finding a used pipe at a salvage yard to save money on the repair. I called around and found a place that would sell it to me for around $100.00. I'm not handy with cars and know the bare minimum when it comes to repairs, so what I don't know is if it is safe to use a pipe from a salvage yard compared to buying a new one.
I have this vehicle, which keeps blowing out the catalytic converter, its been replaced 3 times in the last month, and the mechanic doesnt know why, he refuses to put another one on it, until he figures this out.
View 3 RepliesMy husband,who is an engineer and has done all of our car maintenance for decades is stumped by our 2000 Mazda MPV. He replaced the catalytic converter and put every thing back together, but the car won't run. Will start, but dies right away. Took off new cat,and runs with that off, but not sure why it won't run with the cat on.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2000 E 250 Econoline van with 170,000 miles. I've been encountering loss of power on acceleration for months. Terrible gas mileage (8-10 mpg) and just recently, I get that rotten egg smell when I gun it and and travel above 65/70. I can feel heat from under the van when i step out as well. I've been blowing individual coil packs every other month after a long drive with a lot of inclines. It all points to a clogged catalytic converter. This van has 3. A front left and right by the manifolds, and a large one before the muffler. My question is, what causes them to go bad? I want to fix the cause before spend the money on new cats. Ive heard a rich fuel mixture could do it. Are there sensors that need to be changed?
View 1 RepliesThat Car Grand AM 2000 2.4L SE
The current problem with the car is that it is not accelerating fast, for example i would push the petal to the metal and only go 25 mph and my RPM would be 3000-4000. Initial my brother and cousin though it was the Catalytic converter because it was getting hot but that has recently been change along with the fuel filter and spark plugs. but the catalytic converter is still gets red hot so i forbid myself from driving it till i fix what every causing the slow acceleration and the temperature of the Cata when i took the error code think P0300 random misfire to the local Autozone they printed me a long list of things that could be a issue my question is what is the likely culprit so i can fix those 1st before shelling out cash to rebuild a engine. may just have to get rid of it at that point. so i guess what am asking is a list maybe top 10 so i can fix them one by one as my money comes in.
Before the accelerating issue the car would randomly stop when i slowed down or stooped that when i replace the spark plugs.
My 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
2000 Camaro, v6 auto, 103000 miles, 2 years ago car started making a roaring noise in the rear. the faster i go the louder it gets. if i let off the gas it almost goes away. at high speed over 90 the rear vibrates. noticed today that if i push on rear fender there is a clunking noise coming from rear wheel. checked lug nuts and they are tight. Is it unsafe to drive?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
View 1 RepliesLong story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
View 5 RepliesI recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
How to Replace a Catalytic Converter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Air Intake and Exhaust Guides
I have a 2000 Lincoln Town Car with a single exhaust system, part of/attached to the frontal area of the exhaust "Y" pipe are two lumps with heat shields, the muffler is obvious in the mid-section of the car, but are those "lumps" the catalytic converters, and if so, why two when the older cars had only one?
View 2 RepliesSomeone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Prius that is currently in limp mode...
Took it to the dealer for diagnostics and they said the Catalytic Converter has failed...So I went online, bought a new one and replaced it. The symptoms prior the Cat replacement were still there...mpg loss, power loss, and exhaust air was not exiting the end of the pipe but actually leaking out the connection point where the Cat and the manifold met.
So this morning (Kind of Cold) I went out site and started my car. I heard some noise under the car and I noticed that the noise bad been coming from the Catalytic Converter area and there was water dripping off of it.
My guess is that it was just warming up and the water was from the cold. Is it normal?
I have a GLX V6 ...
I own a 2004 Acura RSX that I purchased new nearly 10 years ago. The car currently has 182,000 miles on it. Two years ago (approx. 130,000 miles), I had to replace the catalytic converter and both O2 sensors. This lightened my wallet to the tune of $1,200 (aftermarket franchise, OEM replacement). A few weeks ago, the "check engine" light came on. I used my scanner, and got the dreaded P0420 code, and had it verified by another shop. O2 sensors were OK. What REALLY shocked me was that replacement catalytic converters are only warranted for 5 years/25,000 miles (50k in CA). The first replacement piece lasted 52,000 miles (less than half the miles/years of the original part)
Here are THE QUESTIONS: What killed this catalytic converter? What can I do to prolong the life of this part? My car has the base powertrain that (according to the owner's manual) recommends 87 octane fuel. That's all I've ever used. The mechanic suggested moving up to mid-grade fuel, though he admitted that he wasn't sure.
On my 2002 Subaru Forester (137,000 m), the check engine light came on. They diagnosed and repaired O2 sensor. About 300 miles later it came on again, this time they said the catalytic converter was cooked, and they blamed whatever caused the O2 sensor to fail (or the O2 sensor failure itself). After the repair (about $1300 and 30 miles later), I discovered that the engine oil was so low that it was not showing up on the dipstick (tho the oil light was not yet on). The shop (after admitting that they did not check the oil while it was in there) said it was related to catalytic converter failure. Does this make sense? I have only gone another 60 miles since the oil was refilled, but so far it looks OK. Should I be on the look-out for anything else?
View 16 RepliesMy car had its check engine light come on a few days ago, and the engine started to get extremely loud whenever I was accelerating. I would also smell gas whenever I would start the car. I decided to take it to a mechanic, who did a diagnostic check and told me that my catalytic converter was busted. This troubled me because I had just had the part replaced a little over two years ago. I figured the part would still be under warranty, but the mechanic that I had used to replace the cat told me that it was only under warranty for one year or 12,000 miles, according to the distributor. Well, I got a hold of the distributor, and he told me that he didn't have the information for the specific part that he used (he just told me that he "figured" it would be one year or 12,000 miles because most of the parts that they receive have warranties of that length....). Shops are closed now for the weekend, and I am getting worried about my bank account here...should I be?
Well, my questions for you all are as follows:1) Have you all ever heard of a catalytic converter ever having only a 1 year or 12,000-mile warranty? My current mechanic tells me he has never heard of one being so short, and that usually they are 5 years or 50,000 miles. I did minimal research on the internet and also found similar results.2) Who do I need to get into contact with in order to find out how long the warranty is, and how I redeem the warranty?
The check engine light came on so I took my car in. My mechanic whom I've used for years told me the following: the catalytic converted had started to come off, in the process it pushed the oxygen sensor up against the body of the car and shorted it out. The total damage is that the O2 sensor and the cat has to be replaced. The line-item estimate was $104 for a sensor and $650 for a cat, plus labor. Total: $1000. Now, I'm looking online and seeing cats that work on my car for far less ($200-400 depending). I talked to another mechanic on the phone who verified cats don't have to be $650. My mechanic said they only use top quality parts with warranty, etc. But the other mechanic said that for a car that he wants to get moving again, a cat is a cat and any new part will, of course, come with a warranty. So... what should I do? Is $1000 too much? If I go with the mechanic who says he can get me down to $700, will that be cheap work on my car? It has 108K miles, and I'd like to get at least another few years out of it.
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