Chevrolet - Camaro :: 1979 - Shoot Out Dark Grey Smoke Then Stopped
May 18, 2013
I have a 79 Camaro and I've gotten a new carb(2 bbl dueljet Rochester) and distributor on it. I got timing right I do believe. I have been having problems trying to get it to start. The car just cranks real fast( sounds like good timing) , but it did sputter out the tail pipe and it shoot out dark grey smoke the first couple times then stopped. I had someone try to start the car while I was near the front to listen and I heard an exhaust leak near the manifold. We fixed that but it still isn't starting. Now it just keeps turning over real fast and that’s it. I looked in carb and it’s getting gas, and it’s getting spark. I tried to mess with the carb a little to let it get more air in it. Didn't work, would I maybe have to open the carb a little more to get more air? How to get my car up and running again.
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I noticed the bottom dark grey trim on the front passenger door is sticking out. Looks like the panel/trim is prying away from the door.
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I have a 2010 Ram 1500 4x4 quad cab, 4.7L, 25,000 miles. When it sits for a few days, it will emit a puff of grey smoke on starting. It won't do it the rest of the day, and even the next day, but after about 3 days, it will do it. The truck sits nose up on a sloping driveway with a slope of about 1'/20' when parked. Truck runs great otherwise. Dealer says that this is normal for that engine, but I doubt it, as I don't see it discussed anywhere. Is the dealer right or just trying to get me past the new car warranty?
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I have a 1989 Toyota Corolla SR5 AllTrac wagon, manual trans with 160k+ miles. It had been running ok - until I got an oil change. I am wondering if I should do the repairs to get it inspected - new tires, battery, driver-side mirror, and rust repair (small hole near rear wheel well, driver's door; sunroof has rust - that's not an inspection item but needs to be done). The rear-wheel differential has been making grinding/whining noise for about a year; it's probably time to rebuild. Back to the oil change - my car ran great, got the oil changed at Monro; then the car started dripping oil, then was very difficult to start and stalled at stops, even brief ones, also when any gas was applied.
I noticed a light grey smoke from the car on start-up, which went away. I first thought it just needed a tune-up, but when I saw the smoke, I thought there might be oil leaking into the valves. I love this car, but the body is really in need of work. The underneath is pretty solid. In the meantime, I still need a car. I thought of getting a small used gas-saving sedan, and putting some money into the All-Trac to use it for gardening, hauling stuff, etc. , and actually, even though a wagon, it's fun to drive. Can you tell I love my Rosie? My other option is to buy a car ... ick... I don't want car payments. I'm looking at a 2006 Subaru Forester with 42k today, am a bit wary of Subaru repairs, and the steep sticker price.
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While driving my 2011 Elantra a few minutes ago I just heard a moderate noise much like I had just driven over an empty pop can. Then white/ grey smoke started pouring out of my exhaust to the point I couldn't see the cars behind me. Just had 15000 mile maintenance about two weeks ago. My hubby has a lot of knowledge regarding older vehicles but says he's never seen anything like it before!
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I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu (187K mi). Last year I was driving to work (24 mi one way) and noticed when I came to a stoplight the car seemed to be really hard to stop. When the light turned green and I let off the brake, it jumped forward pretty hard then continued on the way. Once I got to the parking lot and put it in to park, the RPM's went WAY up to around 3K the second I put it in park. It did this on and off for a week or so, one time getting so high in park I was scared to drive it. It was really sporadic. It quit for a day or two, then started again. I finally took it to a transmission shop...a national chain that is supposed to be good.
After 2 weeks they still didn't know what was wrong, charged me $500 for looking at it...didn't fix ANYTHING and it's been fine for almost a year. The only thing they charged me for was hooking it up to their computer and doing diagnostics. They said they were going to have someone test each wire one by one because it was showing a computer malfunction. However they did not actually do any work on the car. Just tests. I got it back and it worked fine for some reason. Now it's started to do it again. Rev'd really high, up to 2K when I put it in park last night..but today it's been fine. What could this be, and who do I trust?
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Was driving down the highway and got a smell in the car, thought it might be diesal from the truck in front. When I got off and came to a stop, car would not accelerate at first, it hesitated and a puff of grey smoke came out of the back. Stopped for a few minutes everything seemed fine then the check engine light came on. I have managed to get it up with just a couple of rattles, but the check engine light is still on. Have I killed the car by driving it home. The light was not flashing it was completely on.
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I didn't notice anything until I was towing yesterday and tried to pass a car to get onto the offramp.
Anyway, I went to floor it so I could get around and, in my mirror, I could see a decent bit of grey smoke coming out. What could it be?
It doesn't smoke at all on startup and runs smooth right away.
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Just picked my 2005 excursion from being bulletproofed. Arp studs, oem head gaskets, turbo cleaned rebuilt, blue spring mod, 8 new Motorcraft injectors, rebuilt heads surfaced, new Ford oil cooler, egr plugged delete, sct x4 on 2nd tow tune, new radiator, new fan clutch, new water pump, and sinister delete kit. I got almost home to last stop sign and took off and noticed grey/white smoke.
Then drove so more for 20 minutes. Everything you come to complete stop and take off it does this. On start up it will puff a little puff then go away. Is this normal after a rebuild and go away after some miles have been put on engine. Or should I be worried. It runs awesome now and idles so smooth with tons of power on tow tune.
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I replaced the rings on all 8 injectors put in 8 new glow plugs and a relay. My truck is still putting out grey/ white smoke at start up. It goes away after about a minutes. Truck runs a little rough a first then smooths out. I know some smoke after doing a job like this is to be expected but I was thinking I t would go away by now. I've been running through my head what I might of done wrong but I can't think of anything.
Does it just need all new injectors and not just rings ?
2001 f250 7.3
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Obviously its not a good thing, but this seems a little severe for a truck that hasnt had any issues prior. The truck is a 1998 F150 4.6 and was running just fine until POP!! A puff of grey smoke coming from the throttle body and followed by (obviously) a rough idle. So basically, I know that any metal fragments were directly sucked into the intake and based on the size of the chipped area (roughly 1.5cm). I am wondering what type of internal damage this would (or already has) caused.
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2005 6.0 133000 miles... Truck has been stuttering and running rough for about 2 weeks, warms up and is somewhat better. Would stutter in the RPM range of 1600 to 2100 RPM, can push down on accelerator and power through it with no problems. Checked codes and got PO269 Contribution Cylinder 3. Changed all filters and oil change along with a bottle of hot shot secret in the oil. Truck is now blowing blackish grey smoke under throttle and when idling that smells like fuel. No coolant in oil, and no oil in coolant.is the injector shot, or injector sleeve bad?
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1979 chevy c10.. No start.... 4.1 engine with no spark.... I have replaced everything in distributor including plugs and wire still no spark rotor is turning when engine cranks so I assume timing chain is good
I have replaced Ignition Coil, Distributor Capacitor & Terminal Block, pickup coil, Ignition Control Module, Distributor Rotor, cap, Wires
Seems like I am just wasting money on parts and still no start. Truck only has 50k for miles on it and not driven very much. Just died going down hwy with out any warning.
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I have a 95 Cherokee and dark smoke is starting to come out of the exhaust, but only when I make a u-turn. The Jeep is running fine, except for the smoke and I noticed the problem about two weeks ago. While the Jeep is running there is absolutely no smoke, but as soon as I make a u-turn a cloud of smoke comes out the back that smells like burnt rubber.
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Yesterday I was driving my wife's Passat 2.0T and I floored it and I saw a dark cloud of smoke out the back. It didn't seem very normal... is it?
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My 2011 Sonata is now at 56000 km (35k mi). While driving with a friend, I floored it when entering on the highway and he told me there was some dark smoke coming out of the exhaust.
I take very good care of my car and recently started using supreme gas and synthetic oil. It runs very smooth and never really had any problems... should I be worried? Is this normal?
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After driving 2 hrs on the highway, my 2008 Kia Rio chugs and spits out dark smoke. Last month, shortly after this happened, while exiting the highway, the car lost power completely. I was out of town when this happened. The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. He did a transmission flush and replaced the crank sensor. It is running again, but the chugging persists after driving 2 hrs on the highway! I am scared of being stranded again. I also think the car is burning oil, as it often is low, and it's not leaking, as far as I can see.
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
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