Chevrolet - Blazer :: Rubber Door Molding Separated At Front Corner Of Both Doors
Jul 22, 2013
The door molding has come loose at the front corners of both my doors on my 2002 S-10 pickup. I tried weldwood contact cement (the kind you use on laminating Formica counter tops), but it only lasted a couple of days. I put a spot of super glue on it to see if that might work. It looks promising but that little spot that I tried was not enough surface area to hold it for more than a day. I don't want to ruin the trim by super gluing the whole thing if it won't work. How to do this? The trim seems fine otherwise. It is not cracking or anything like that. I think super glue would hold it if I glued the entire length of about a foot or so. Also the driver side door seems to be a bit out of line an eighth of inch or so at the front corner. It does not appear to be adjustable. It has never been in an accident. It does not seem to be leaking into the cab yet with the door closed.
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The rubber molding at the bottom of my wife's driver's window (2007 Prius) has separated. Is replacing this molding a DIY job or do I need to pay the dealer? If I can do it myself, are there any tips for removing the old molding & installing the new?
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I've noticed on both rear doors, the Lower Moulding (black cover at the bottom of the door) #12 in the attached diagram (Light Blue Circle), is very much separated from the body of the car, it's like bended toward the outside, but it seems to be exactly the same on both sides, I am not sure if this is normal or mine has a defect
Both front doors are OK, not 100% perfectly aligned with the body of the car, but MUCH better than the rear doors....
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I have noticed that the rubber window moldings around both front doors is deteriorating. Both are torn and falling apart. There is no wind noise yet but they need to be replaced.
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Auto facts: 2000 Blazer, Mileage: 196,000 Engine: V6, 4.3L Transmission: Automatic Drivetrain: 4WD, Single climate control
Recently had my AC compressor assembly replaced, renewed accumulator/receiver drier, orifice tube, recharge, etc. The AC was cooling well below par after the repairs. Then is started alternately blowing hot (12 sec), cool (3 sec), etc. with a "spooky" creaking noise coming from within the middle dash during each transition (blend door?).
The mechanic charged the system again and agrees there is a refrigerant leak "somewhere" to account for the marginal cooling capability but the dye put into the system before the repair is not showing up anywhere that he can see (so far, having it checked again today). So, are these 2 separate issues? What are the steps of diagnosis and repair possibilities?
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Our new (got April 2014) RX350 seems to have an issue with the rubber/felt window molding getting caught between the glass and metal incorrectly. "Pinched".
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In the photos here you can see there are quarter sized holes in the passenger door and some rust damage underneath the car. To me it doesn't look like that much, but the previous owner did a bunch of work himself - maybe that's why. To remedy all rust what do you think the price would be? Me welding is currently not an option and I have zero experience doing work on cars.
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My car is leaking fluid from the right front side. What it is.
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Front lower control arm bushings are completely separated. Looking to upgrade in some way to poly bushings or some other sort of performance setup.
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Our 2005 Excursion has these side moldings (mouldings? whatever) on the doors. Plastic things, probably intended to absorb impacts from shopping carts, etc.
My driver side one is just hanging by the top. Looks to me like these are just taped on?
What I have to do to properly secure this bad boy? Should I remove the whole thing, remove the old tape, and use a whole new set of tape in both places? Does one apply the tape door-first, or molding-first?
And, most importantly, what kind of tape should I use, and where should I get it?
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I have a 95 SL1, 175,000 miles. Both front doors and the right rear door have water leaks. Leak is at the top edge of doors. Seals look ok. During heavy rain it is bad, soaking the seats and floor boards. Would adjusting the door lock striker by pulling the door in tighter to make a more positive seal or should I replace the door seals. I have friends you own Saturns and they have similar problems with door water leaks.
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I rarely drive with anyone else in my 2004 Prius. This week we've had out-of-town guests, with two people in the back seat. When the doors are locked, the front seat passenger can pull on the handle to open the door, but the back seat passengers can't open their doors with the handle until someone in one of the front seats pushes the door unlock button. The child safety locks are not set. I keep getting out of my car and forgetting to push the button to let the back seat passengers open their doors. Is there anything I can do to change this rear door behavior?
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The drivers side and passenger side doors will not unlock using my key fobs, nor by touching the door handles. The only thing that happens when I touch the front passenger door handle is that the back doors will unlock. I have to enter my car through the back doors, and unlock the front doors manually. Also, by touching the passenger door handle, I get a series of beeps (3-5). What may be causing this, and how to fix it?
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The door seal between the driver's side front and rear doors on my car is coming loose -- the rubber piece that seals out wind/water/noise?/etc. between where the driver's side front door closes and meets the rear door by the B-pillar. I looked at the way it's designed and meant to be applied and was curious if using gorilla glue or some variant of high strength adhesive would do the trick? It seems to be drying up where the rubber meets the sheet metal.
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The rear driver side door on my Passat doesn't work right, it doesn't lock or unlock from the button on the front two doors....and the window only rolls down when that door is open and the car is running, how to fix?
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How do I remove side chrome door molding? Do they clip off?
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Just picked up a new to us 2004 GX470 for my wife.
One of the things wrong with the GX470 is the passenger door exterior molding is unclipped at the bottom. I ordered new clips from eBay and they just came in. Now I just need to figure out how to get the molding off without making the problem worse so I can replace all the clips.
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I have an 01 B5 Passat and the interior cloth covering surrounding the front door frames keeps coming off the rubber gasket. I have tried many different types of glue and contact cement but nothing seems to last longer than a few months.
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How to get the plastic exterior molding on the base of the doors off. I see 2 screws and thats it. Is there a trick to it? I need to replace the passenger side or epoxy one of the clips back on then remount it.
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My driver side door molding is missing a clip. This is the bottom half of the mold and one of the clips snapped off. I've checked junk yards and they never have any GX's. Just to elaborate the clip I'm missing is on the exterior side of the door, down by the bottom edge.
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Have owned my 2008 GX470 for about 8 months now and love it. However, over the last month I have noticed the molding between the driver door and roof has been popping out. I don't know if there are clamps down in there that have fallen out or if the molding just needs to be clamped back in. Picture is below.
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