Chevrolet - Blazer :: 2001 - Vibrates While Accelerating Or Maintaining Speed?
Aug 29, 2012
I have an '01 Blazer that's had a strange vibration for some time now. Here are the particulars:
It's a low frequency rumbling It happens only between 45 and 60 mph It tends to come and go It usually starts after about 5 minutes of driving first thing in the day It generally goes away after awhile and may not happen the rest of the day It happens only when I'm accelerating or maintaining speed on an incline It happens when it's hot, cold, wet or dry
What I've done lately: replaced all the brake pads replaced one rear rotor and caliper slide pins (one pin was frozen and the rotor was badly worn Checked the U-joints, which are sound
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New here. I have a 2001 F150 which i love but lately has been an issue. I started it up a few weeks ago after it set over night. i threw it in to reverse and notice it hesitating while reversing and it has small trouble accelerating but does buck and jerk while trying to maintain speed. So I took it to my well trusted mechanic and he ran compression test and ran the highly prolific OTC scanner on it and nothing. I have changed my mass flow sensor and I dont show any misfires or any codes pending. I did replace a busted catalytic convertor a couple months back. Im running out of places to turn.
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What would cause a trouble code PO 300 on a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The truck will run good sometimes. When it runs bad it will stumble at low speed acceleration. It will run fine wide open. Dealer looked at it and thought it was egr vale. I replaced it and it runs a little better but still stumbles.
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i have a 1998 chevy blazer 4.3 4wd v6 about 130000 miles on it. There is no check engine light on at all. Some reason it takes long time for it to get up to speed.and i can't figer out why that is i did replace spark plugs in it..
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I Turn On The A/C To Max On My 2001 Blazer and A/C Clutch Will Not Spin. My Freon Is Full. How Do I fix This.
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I Have A 2001 Chevy Blazer The 4x4 will not engage. I Press the 4x4 Auto, Hi or Low button on the dash they just keep flashing. you can hear the transfer case engage, but It will not be in 4 wheel drive. I have tried driving around with the light flashing to see if it would engage it did not.
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I replaced the fuel pump in my 2001 chevy blazer last year and it just quit again two days ago. Internet research leads me to believe it is a common problem in chevy turcks. Blazer stops running, sits for a few hours to a day and then starts up again. Is it going to happen again and is it really the fuel pump.
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My Check engine Light comes on with a P0410 Code. It used to come on every 6 months and I would get it cleared. Now it is coming on about every month. I can't find much about it. Is this something I should get fixed right away. where is it located?
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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
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2012 GTI 6 Speed
Both needles bounce while maintaining a constant speed, example going 80mph in 6th, RPM moves +/-100ish RPM and speed is 1-2 MPH. The car doesn't actually move, just the gauges. Engine doesn't sound like its miss firing MPG was 30 going 80 so it seems to run just fine. Going through the gears playing around its smooth and normal.
I'm on a road trip so very limited on anything to diagnose, just looking for some insight.
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2012 6.7l CC SB SRW 4x4.
Truck has 9700 miles on it, bought it in December of 2012. Twice in the last week, when at about 60 mph on a flat road, maintaining speed with virtually no wind, there is a slow, gradual shudder from the rear wheels. Both times the truck has been on cruise control and if I add power, the truck does not accelerate and the shudder continues to increase. If pull power either by brake or canceling cruise, it stops and the truck performs as expected.
I have yet to have the time to reproduce this. My only hope is if the dealer is already aware. I plan on trying to reproduce it at some point with hopes of having something tangible for the dealer.
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I was driving home from school last week and noticed my cruise control would stay set for 5 minutes or so, then slowly (over several minutes) lose speed. I've noticed it happen before, but very infrequently and usually if I stopped to use the restroom, when I started the truck back up it was fine. This time it continued to happen.
As I was getting nearer to home, I noticed that while I had the cruise set, I would hear a high squeaking noise in the dash almost dead center under the radio. Then , when I would tap the brakes, there would be a rattle. This would only happen with the cruise set.
Noise in dash - YouTube
Not sure how well the squeak can be heard, but the rattle is definitely audible. What the cause might be? Electrical, mechanical, are the cruise and the noise even related? Other than that, the truck seems to be running alright.
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I have noticed over the past month that as I am maintaining speed, I will have a vibration or shutter. It sounds and feels like you are running over the cuts in the road on the shoulder. I can accelerate and make it stop but as soon as I want to maintain speed it will happen again. It does not feel like there is anything going on in the transmission. I have searched the forums and have found some similar problems but not exactly. Where should I look first? U-Joint, Drivesahft?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna. At first I noticed that the dashboard light showing the left turn signal was on would light up when I put on the headlights. A few days later, I discovered that the left turn signal stops working when I apply the break. Also, when I'm using cruise control and use my left turn signal, the cruise control stops maintaining speed.
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Now that I use my truck as a daily driver I am noticing a vibration under acceleration at 30-35 and constant vibration at 45-50 accelerating or maintaining speed. I have replaced all three u-joints as well as new ribbed highway tires all around and still have the vibration. It seems worse in OD. I have done a little research and am either going to shim center support/machine a new one or have a one piece shaft made and need info on how to successfully gotten rid of this vibe on their truck mainly the amount of shimming required and the final driveline angle. It seems that most posts regarding this issue lean towards the fact that the 45-50mph vibe is normal for my year super duty and that's probably right but I want to remedy problem not "live with it!" (10 mile 45mph stretch to work @ 4AM, vibe bugs the heck out of me!)
Truck is 2000 f250 SC 2wd 4r100 3.73 gear currently 51000 miles.
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I drive a 2001 Chevy Prizm with 90,000 miles on it. Lately, when I'm accelerating over about 30 to 40 mph, my engine starts to make a grinding noise, that gets worse the faster I go, or the more pressure I apply. The noise also happens when I'm going up hill. What's causing this noise, so I don't look like an idiot when I take it in to my mechanic?
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I have a 1995 3000gt sl. When im on the freeway running at 80 mph and maintaining that speed it starts to overheat.I can reduce my speed and it starts to cool down I can also turn heater on high and that cools it down I cant hit the exit ramp and by the time I get stopped at the end of ramp its cooled back down.I can start it and sit with it running and it never gets hot.If I stay below 55 I never have any overheating its only when I increase and maintain 75 or faster I have a problem. Also when it was hot outside I turned my air on max cool one day and it got hot real fast.So to fix that I just didn't run my air any more. then a few months went by and this started to happen.50mph and slower its fine.But at freeway speed limit it starts running hot. Only with increased speed to the engine does it start getting hot.
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MY 2001 Edge 4.0 5 speed auto has a noise while accelerating. It happens only when truck is first run and disappears after warming up after a few miles. It just turned 1500 miles. Can't figure out if it is from trans or possibly a speedo cable. It goes to the dealer next week.
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My daughter's automatic DOHC SE Focus had suddenly been stalling, becoming harder to start and not maintaining a steady idle. I took it to our semi-trusted repair shop and was told it needed an EGR valve, plugs, coil, and ignition wires. $580! These all seemed like repairs I could do and so I have worked through all of these. I replaced the EGR valve and that seemed to make the problem actually worse. (so I put the old one back in) I put in new plugs and that improved the idle a small amount. Then I put in the new coil and that seemed to steady the idle a bit more. But here is what I have discovered through my many test drives after making these incremental repairs: The car starts now from cold very well and runs great for the first 20 minutes or so but...when it gets hot after 15 minutes or so of 50 mph driving, the idle drops and the engine wants to cut off. At low revs it seems to stumble and lose power. I think this is what my daughter was experiencing originally and none of my early test drives were long enough to surface the original problem. I have read that the Idle Control Valve might be a culprit in this sort of behavior.
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Recently I noticed my car vibrates to left and right when I hit the pedal and the speed is around 40mph and above. The car runs smooth if I maintain the speed.The car has 176K and running quite good and I am about to have the timing belt service.I am just curious what could cause this: timing belt? fuel filter? The car is 2001 acura TL so it has front wheel drive.
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Been doing a lot of repair's on our 1994 Chevy blazer. It's a 4.3 v6. We finally got her running and now it seems like it can't take high speeds for very long without over heating and eventually smoking some. Had to bypass heater core, it's clogged. That worked with temp. Also replaced radiator and cap. Replaced both heads, took thermostat out. That worked with temp too. It has a new water pump, new exhaust manifolds, has good spark plugs, oil changed and oil filter. Kind of at a loss.
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