Chevrolet - Blazer :: 2000 Cutting Out And Completely Died
Oct 23, 2013
I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer with about 180,000 miles on it. It has been running fine, then a few weeks ago we got gas at a small little station we had never been to. The day after it started cutting out. We took it to the shop and they put a new catalytic converter on it. They said it also needed a new water pump and something with oil seals, so we went ahead and did that. It drove fine for a while, then the next time we filled up with gas it started cutting out and completely died. They put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires and distributor cap, basically gave it a good tune up. It's been driving fine. We filled it up and with in a few miles it start stuttering. At the stop light it rattled but kept going. drove it another 3 miles and it stuttered again. We are out of money and at our wits end!
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94 Blazer 5.7 liter ... Headlights won't come on... They flickered then went off completely. Check EGR light comes on occasionally. Lower 30 amp breaker on fusebox is extremely hot. All other lights work.
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I have a 2000 S10 Chevy blazer .One day I was at a stop sign when the truck went completely dead , I had no power . I walked home , I came back a little later and figure I would give it a try well it started so I brought it home .. from then on it would start up some days and other times it would just crank but not start .After keeping it my garage for over a year , the other day I charged the battery and try to start the truck , it kicked right over and I let it run for awhile . I turned it off and restarted it again let it run for awhile . Yesterday I went up to start it again and nothing ,so I gave up , today it was the same thing it would just crank but not start . I know its not a fuel issue , and I don't think its an ignition problem ..
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Driving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
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I was driving my 2000 Subaru Outback on Friday evening and it completely died at a red light. Hazards wouldn't turn on, couldn't move the car into N or P, couldn't get the key out of the ignition. Because we were blocking an intersection, the police went to a nearby shop and had them tow it there. This is a shop I don't trust. What could this be, so I can be informed when these people call me back and tell me I need significant repairs?
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Our 2000 blazer LT 4.3L 4 door 4wd has 190,000 km (about 115,000 miles). 3 Button dash control. Transmission was rebuilt at 100,000 miles (main troque converter spline was shot). The 4 wd will not engage in either hi or lo.
Whether moving or not, press 4 wd lo, light stays on. but nothing happens. I cannot hear the transfer case engaging.
Had a previous problem, (withflashing light): found the vacuum hose under battery case was worn through.
I do have a service engine light on the dash. This may be unrelated, because 4wd stopped working long before service engine light came on. I have changed the Oxygen sensor, but no reset the fault yet. Where to start.
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My daughter drives my old 2000 Chevy Blazer with a reconditioned transmission I paid for in Aug 2010. The new (rebuilt) transmission is now slipping. Could this be as simple as a fuse (electrical signal issue) or not having enough transmission fluid?
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I have a 2000 Chevy blazer 4.3L 4 wheel drive. 4 of the 6 cylinders are misfiring and the car has completely lost power. Before this issue occurred it was running fine and the next morning when I went to start it the car was turning over and wouldn't start. My dad and uncle believe it's a distributor or computer issue but I would like other opinions about this issue.....
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2000 Blazer LT 4wd, 118000 miles
During a severe thunder storm the factory alarm went off. I was unable to shut off the alarm with the key fob. The power door locks did not work either with the door switch or the key fob. I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes.
After I reconnected the battery the door locks worked using the key fob or door switch. I took it for a drive with no further problems. About 10 minutes later the alarm went off again. I could hear the door lock solenoids attempting to lock/unlock the doors and there was a clicking under the dash. I disconnected the battery again, after the battery was reconnected the power door locks were still not working. The truck starts up and runs normal, everything seems to work except for the door lock?
I checked the PW fuse, it was fine. The battery is fully charged at 12.6V. I've disconnected the battery and will have another look at it tomorrow. There was nothing useful in the Owner's Manual and the resync procedure did not work.
Update: Before driving to work this morning, I cleaned the positive and negative terminals. The locks worked and the truck ran normally during the 30 min drive to work. After reading the Owner's manual closely, I discovered the Theft Deterrent System can be disarmed by locking the car with the doors closed. The system is armed by locking the doors with a door open, i.e. pressing the lock switch when exiting the vehicle.
No further problems with the alarm or the door locks whether the Theft Deterrent System is armed or disarmed. Hopefully leaving the battery disconnected overnight was the fix.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and the front grill is faded and yellow. I drove to a reputable body shop and the guy there told me that this type of plastic cannot be sanded or painted because will only fade again. He told me my only option was to buy a new or aftermarket grill which ranges from $360 to $450. Is there anything I can apply to the grill that will return it to its original black finish?
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The cruise control on my 2000 Blazer LS 4X4 is not working. I just changed the multi-function switch and still nothing. I looked at the throttle cables and they seem to be fine. All the fuses are good as well.
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I recently had some issues getting my 2000 Blazer LS started. It would act as though the battery was dying. But if I let it set a few moments, it would start right up. Then a couple days later, I needed a jump start to get it going. I took it to my local Auto Zone to have the alternator tested because the battery was only 3 years old. (It was a 5 year battery.)
They determined that it was the battery. So I went to Walmart and bought a 700 CCA battery. And today the gauge is fluctuating again.... Considering it is cold and snowing here, heat, wipers, and rear defrost tend to be essential. But if I try to run all of them, the gauge dumps. And causes everything to bog down. I do not have any aftermarket electronics installed in the truck. And until last Thursday, this was not an issue.
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2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 (automatic) - When I bought it used, it shifted fine, has no issues other than the transfer case wouldn't engage every time. A few months later my overhead console display lights went out, then all the dash lights such as engine, 4x4, the gauges started lighting up and acting weird randomly, then a week later the truck started shifting funny.
Now 90% of the time, the truck won't start in 1st gear, it starts in 2nd, then while accelerating up to 30-35mph it will shift up way too soon and bog down, then shit back down to 2nd, then shift up again, and continue until it hits 30-35, then it fails to shift into overdrive. Also when coming to a stop, it kicks down a gear (into 2nd I assume) pretty hard and clanks pretty loud around 2mph just before a complete stop.
Weird thing is every once in awhile, it will go away and shift normal but the engine light is usually lit up during normal shifting.Could it be the ECM causing all these weird things?
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2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
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The fuel gauge on my 2000 Blazer is flipping from empty to full. (Even as I drive down the road it moves.) And nothing in between. The fuel pump was replaced about a year and a half ago. I've been told the fuel pump controls the fuel gauge. So I'm wondering if there could be a loose contection or if this is a sign the pump will go bad again.
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I have a 2000 chevy s10, it has a brand new battery and alternator. When the battery is charged the battery meter will keep dropping until the dash is completely off when I am driving, then i wont be able to start it unless i get a jump or charge the battery. why is the battery draining so quickly?
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I replaced the head gaskets on a 2006 F250 6.0 Diesel, put it all back together and started it up. It ran great for a lil bit, then it started cutting out. It did this for about an hour then I killed it and it took a little bit to restart it, spinning over and over to get it to run, this took place several times. The engine died and now it will not start. I keep getting codes P2284 and P2290. What could be causing this problem??
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I own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
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2012 3.6 SE... Might have left my lights on... Battery Dies... How do I get into the trunk where the battery is or to the connectors under the hood? I'm completely locked out of the car...
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2008 GX470..... Car died 3 times on the way...engine started missing a bit then completely died. First time n of Dalhart TX pulled off the road and restarted in a few minutes ran ok for about 30 miles died again. Restarted in a few minutes, filled up and drove 120 miles to Trinidad CO no problems....stopped at Toyota dealer in Trinidad, ran full diagnostics, said fuel mixture would run too high, car was fine now, maybe bad gas. Drove 150 mi no problem to Co Springs. Car died again climbing up to Breckenridge, pulled into gas station, shut down, filled up, restarted and no problems the last 100 miles into Breckenridge? Only commonality when the car died was that I was at half tank of gas. If fuel pump issue should full analysis have showed that?
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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