The cruise control on my 2000 Blazer LS 4X4 is not working. I just changed the multi-function switch and still nothing. I looked at the throttle cables and they seem to be fine. All the fuses are good as well.
View 4 RepliesI just recently started having trouble with the cruise control on my 2007 Chevy Malibu.
Last weekend, I went on an 800 mile trip (cruising most of the time) but stopped to have the tires rotated and balanced, and my oil changed halfway through (I was up for an oil change anyway). Got home late Monday, everything was fine. Then Thursday, my cruise control stopped working. The light on the steering wheel comes on to show that it is engaged, but I cannot set the speed.
The owners manual suggested it might be caused by low brake fluid. Checked that, saw it was a little low, maybe a centimeter, and filled it, but the cruise control still doesn't work. Thought maybe it was a fuse, but there wasn't a bad one.
I've seen some talk about it possibly linked to break or a transmission issue. For a few weeks, my Malibu has been making a lawnmower-ish sound when I drive 40 mph or faster. The problem persists whether its in manual or automatic. I didn't notice anything until I got my car back after loaning it to my parents for a weekend.
I bought the car used July 2010 from its first owner with about 37,000 miles. It's about 72,000 now.
Cruise control is not working on my 00 Explorer. The horns were not working as well so I assumed the clockspring at first. Upon checking out the underside I found that the horns were not grounding properly. Cleaned up some rust and installed new ones. Good as gold. The cruise is still a problem though. The lights are also out on the steering wheel. I checked all the fuses associated with it and they are all good. What else could be the cause of this. Clockspring still possibly?
View 1 RepliesI have a question on my '00 7.3. Cruise control just quit working. From reading the threads/forums I have gotten some ideas, but how about no dash light when turning the key to on? Nothing with the self test also. How can I troubleshoot the switch in the steering wheel? I could also have a bulb out in the cluster, but either way- no cruise function.
View 4 RepliesMy 2000 4.0 XLT Ranger has been without working cruise control for several months now. I've checked what appear to be likely related fuses and they're all good. I *DID* have a recent problem with my brake lights but that's been fixed. (The shop that replaced my rear leaf spring hanger brackets pinched a hot wire between the brackets and the frame which eventually shorted. Wire and fuse were replaced.)
A few years back, Ford had a recall related to the Cruise Controls causing fires. I had the recall service performed on this truck. In a nutshell: The switch to disengage cruise when braking is attached to the master brake cylinder, and a leak in the switches diaphragm allows brake fluid into the switch causing an electrical short, causing the wires to heat up, and in some cases causing a fire. Ford, instead of switching to a different switch design (like maybe a mechanical switch on the pedal?) put a fuseable link in the hot wire from the potentially leaky switch.
Well, the truck now has over 150K miles on the factory brake cylinder/cruise control switch. I'm suspecting that my switch finally leaked, shorted and blew the fuseable link. Would Ford fix it? (They should, considering the lame fix for a lame design flaw.)
I am trying to troubleshoot why my heater blower, cruise control and info center above my rear-view mirror has stopped working. I am trying to confirm power to an orange wire next to the driver-side fuse box. I have confirmed no power at the fuses. I am hoping the problem is the wire box below the fuse box and not the ignition switch. I have a wiring diagram and the power feed to these three fuses is via an Orange wire. There are two Orange wires in the box, I am trying to determine which one feeds the fuses for these three devices. I have a picture of the fuse box.
View 2 RepliesI did the diagnosis,on my non working cruise control on my 2000 f250. The cruise light came on when, I, depressed the off switch and turned key on. I depressed on switch,cruise light came on.
I then depressed the resume, coast, and set switch, as described in the diagnostic procedure,suggested,and no light came on. Do the switches for the cruise control are bad.
I have checked the fuses at the power distribution box under the hood and checked the fuses under dash,all are fine. I just replaced the switch at master cylinder, as it was leaking and it had the recall switch replacement, too.
Our cruise isn't working, I've read through the posts here and tried a few things
2000 F-250 V-10
-First symptom was the cruise light would light with the ON button and go off with the OFF button but I could not set the speed with the SET button. Now the cruise light hardly comes on at all any more.
- I've run the cruise self-test diagnostics and all the switch presses passed with no additional light blinks. After the static test the speed control servo makes a sound but does not move the throttle at all.
-The horn works
-Fuses are good
-Truck was taken to the dealer several years back for the cruise update. The pigtail with the green label is installed at the master cylinder. I've disconnected both connections and sprayed with contact cleaner.
That's about it. What it could be or what to test next?
Was hoping to get confirmation on a fix I intend to repair.
2000 F350 SuperDuty 7.3l Diesel 4x4
Cruise isn't working...... lights won't even come on and nothing happens at the switches.
This morning I put in a new airbag clockspring ...... just requires patience but not too hard to do.
That didn't resolve. Was going to put in new cruise switch at the brake master cylinder.
My question is would that part prevent the cruise control from even turning on at the steering wheel controls? I don't get any light or anything when I hit "on".
I checked literally every fuse in the under dash and under hood boxes. All are good. Is it likely it's the cruise switch?
2000 F250 Super Duty cruise control not working. I looked through a lot of threads on this subject and cannot pin point my problem. Cruise control was working, had to slow down wile approaching a town, back on the highway and now it won't turn on.
Looked at the brake pressure switch, it was till good but was the old type but had the recall harness on it. Bought a new one and replaced it anyways. Still nothing. All my brake lights work, I also did the Cruise control diagnostic and it passes everything. No lights on my dash are on, speedometer works, horn works.
The only thing I did not check is the Vehicle speed sensor. Even though my speedometer works and my ABS light is not on, can this still be the problem? If so how do you test it? Do I just remove it and test continuity?
2000 Blazer LS 4X4. 186k miles. It would seem that my heater control will only work for defrost and face-vent operation. (Just happened yesterday) When I move the controller from the off position to defrost, I can hear the system moving the flaps into position. But it no longer moves for defrost/floor or just floor control. Would changing the heater control solve this problem, or could it be a bad vacuum line?
View 12 RepliesOur 2000 blazer LT 4.3L 4 door 4wd has 190,000 km (about 115,000 miles). 3 Button dash control. Transmission was rebuilt at 100,000 miles (main troque converter spline was shot). The 4 wd will not engage in either hi or lo.
Whether moving or not, press 4 wd lo, light stays on. but nothing happens. I cannot hear the transfer case engaging.
Had a previous problem, (withflashing light): found the vacuum hose under battery case was worn through.
I do have a service engine light on the dash. This may be unrelated, because 4wd stopped working long before service engine light came on. I have changed the Oxygen sensor, but no reset the fault yet. Where to start.
My daughter drives my old 2000 Chevy Blazer with a reconditioned transmission I paid for in Aug 2010. The new (rebuilt) transmission is now slipping. Could this be as simple as a fuse (electrical signal issue) or not having enough transmission fluid?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy blazer 4.3L 4 wheel drive. 4 of the 6 cylinders are misfiring and the car has completely lost power. Before this issue occurred it was running fine and the next morning when I went to start it the car was turning over and wouldn't start. My dad and uncle believe it's a distributor or computer issue but I would like other opinions about this issue.....
View 3 RepliesMy college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
View 15 Replies2000 Blazer LT 4wd, 118000 miles
During a severe thunder storm the factory alarm went off. I was unable to shut off the alarm with the key fob. The power door locks did not work either with the door switch or the key fob. I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes.
After I reconnected the battery the door locks worked using the key fob or door switch. I took it for a drive with no further problems. About 10 minutes later the alarm went off again. I could hear the door lock solenoids attempting to lock/unlock the doors and there was a clicking under the dash. I disconnected the battery again, after the battery was reconnected the power door locks were still not working. The truck starts up and runs normal, everything seems to work except for the door lock?
I checked the PW fuse, it was fine. The battery is fully charged at 12.6V. I've disconnected the battery and will have another look at it tomorrow. There was nothing useful in the Owner's Manual and the resync procedure did not work.
Update: Before driving to work this morning, I cleaned the positive and negative terminals. The locks worked and the truck ran normally during the 30 min drive to work. After reading the Owner's manual closely, I discovered the Theft Deterrent System can be disarmed by locking the car with the doors closed. The system is armed by locking the doors with a door open, i.e. pressing the lock switch when exiting the vehicle.
No further problems with the alarm or the door locks whether the Theft Deterrent System is armed or disarmed. Hopefully leaving the battery disconnected overnight was the fix.
I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer with about 180,000 miles on it. It has been running fine, then a few weeks ago we got gas at a small little station we had never been to. The day after it started cutting out. We took it to the shop and they put a new catalytic converter on it. They said it also needed a new water pump and something with oil seals, so we went ahead and did that. It drove fine for a while, then the next time we filled up with gas it started cutting out and completely died. They put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires and distributor cap, basically gave it a good tune up. It's been driving fine. We filled it up and with in a few miles it start stuttering. At the stop light it rattled but kept going. drove it another 3 miles and it stuttered again. We are out of money and at our wits end!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and the front grill is faded and yellow. I drove to a reputable body shop and the guy there told me that this type of plastic cannot be sanded or painted because will only fade again. He told me my only option was to buy a new or aftermarket grill which ranges from $360 to $450. Is there anything I can apply to the grill that will return it to its original black finish?
View 13 RepliesI recently had some issues getting my 2000 Blazer LS started. It would act as though the battery was dying. But if I let it set a few moments, it would start right up. Then a couple days later, I needed a jump start to get it going. I took it to my local Auto Zone to have the alternator tested because the battery was only 3 years old. (It was a 5 year battery.)
They determined that it was the battery. So I went to Walmart and bought a 700 CCA battery. And today the gauge is fluctuating again.... Considering it is cold and snowing here, heat, wipers, and rear defrost tend to be essential. But if I try to run all of them, the gauge dumps. And causes everything to bog down. I do not have any aftermarket electronics installed in the truck. And until last Thursday, this was not an issue.
2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 (automatic) - When I bought it used, it shifted fine, has no issues other than the transfer case wouldn't engage every time. A few months later my overhead console display lights went out, then all the dash lights such as engine, 4x4, the gauges started lighting up and acting weird randomly, then a week later the truck started shifting funny.
Now 90% of the time, the truck won't start in 1st gear, it starts in 2nd, then while accelerating up to 30-35mph it will shift up way too soon and bog down, then shit back down to 2nd, then shift up again, and continue until it hits 30-35, then it fails to shift into overdrive. Also when coming to a stop, it kicks down a gear (into 2nd I assume) pretty hard and clanks pretty loud around 2mph just before a complete stop.
Weird thing is every once in awhile, it will go away and shift normal but the engine light is usually lit up during normal shifting.Could it be the ECM causing all these weird things?
I have a 1994 Chevy Blazer 4 wheel drive with about 130,000 miles. The instrument panel and radio all quit at the same time. I pounded on the dash and they came back on for a while. I did this a couple of times over a couple of days when they went out and it worked, now it doesn't they wont work. What should I check first, is this going to be a complex repair requiring the instrument panel to be removed and replaced?
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