Chevrolet - Blazer :: 1997 - A Lot Of Cranking At First Start In The Day
Nov 22, 2012
my 97 chevy blazer has a lot of cranking first start in the day. I changed the rotor and distributor cap but I don't smell any fuel then all fo asudden it will start. I am wondering is it a fuel relay problem, a fuel filter, or some sort of sensor. when it does start it is very smooth running no shaking or hesitation full of power for the rest of the day starts and stops erands . is it worth buying a plug in code gadget and will this problem show up as a code.
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I have a '97 Chev Blazer. I had transmission rebuilt. Not even a week after having this done, I start hearing a sound (that literally sounds like an airplane) coming from the front of the car. It ONLY happens when the car is going 45+ mph. When I slow down it gets louder & then you hear a "klunk' when you come to a complete stop. It then will stop until you get back up to that speed again. What in the world this could be? Someone suggested a 4WD problem. It is not the wheel bearings. I had new tires put on and checked right after this problem started. Could it have anything at all to do with the transmission that they rebuilt?
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I have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
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I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer. I have had issues where I could not start my truck and determined it could be the battery. After checking alternator, battery, and starter I was told that all were good. Cleaning terminals did not fix problem. I got a new battery. So I have determined that a power drain is going on somewhere. I have now found that when I shift the transmission from drive to reverse or vice versa that the rear hatch window comes open. As I shift the gear I hear the latch popping behind me. Now I have determined that there is a short somewhere and this could be the cause of my power drain. What I need to know is where to start looking for the default and how to fix my problem.
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Why will the 96 Blazer not start in the rain? Replaced almost all electric components from key cylinder to plugs. It is grounded somewhere when wet.
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Vehicle turns over, but does not start. I do not hear the fuel pump when the vehicle is switched on. Fuel pump was replaced back in December 2010.
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2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 (automatic) - When I bought it used, it shifted fine, has no issues other than the transfer case wouldn't engage every time. A few months later my overhead console display lights went out, then all the dash lights such as engine, 4x4, the gauges started lighting up and acting weird randomly, then a week later the truck started shifting funny.
Now 90% of the time, the truck won't start in 1st gear, it starts in 2nd, then while accelerating up to 30-35mph it will shift up way too soon and bog down, then shit back down to 2nd, then shift up again, and continue until it hits 30-35, then it fails to shift into overdrive. Also when coming to a stop, it kicks down a gear (into 2nd I assume) pretty hard and clanks pretty loud around 2mph just before a complete stop.
Weird thing is every once in awhile, it will go away and shift normal but the engine light is usually lit up during normal shifting.Could it be the ECM causing all these weird things?
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127000 miles on it. When I go and start up car the car starts right up. If I turn car off it won't start back up so i give it a little gas it starts right back up. There is no check engine light...
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2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
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Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..
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What would cause my truck to have a long turnover start, a really rough idle, and a loss of power after idling at a stop light for about a minute?
This problem gets worse as the truck warms up. It feels as if I'm not getting power from all 6 cylinders but this goes away after about 20 feet of acceleration. The truck has never not started. It just has to turn over for about 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. I changed the spark plugs and wires thinking it was that and then i tried the fuel filter and it wasn't that either.
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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
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Truck has 190,000 miles. First, every now and then the truck won't start. Turn the ignition key to the start position and nothing happens - like the battery is dead. Turn the key back to the off position, wait maybe 10 - 15 sec. Try and start again - starts right up. This maybe happens about half the time I start the truck. Always seems to start first start attempt of the day. Only later does it start to behave this way.
I took it into a repair shop and they claimed it was the starter relay. After the repair (about two weeks) it seemed fixed - started all the time. Then a couple of days ago it began to do the same thing again. Only now, maybe 10 - 20% of the time doesn't want to crank (vice 50% or more before the repair). Doesn't seem to be the battery because when it cranks it cranks very strong and starts right up.
Now additionally, today, the truck just dies while driving. Doesn't stall or run rough just before dying - just dies - like turning the ignition switch to off. Interestingly, it starts right back up after this - no extended cranking, etc., just starts right up. I have tried "jiggling" the start switch to see if maybe it is failing, but it has no effect. That is, when the truck won't crank, "jiggling" the switch won't make it crank, and "jiggling" the switch while the truck is running doesn't cause it to die. Sometimes, the waiting 10 -15 secs or so between crank attempts doesn't work - that is, it doesn't crank, but if I open up the hood and take the starter relay out of its socket and put it back in, it cranks.
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Wants to crank. I notice when I turn the key switch on (not start) the gas gauge pegs out as if a super full tank and no fuel pump noise. At times, leading up to the crank but no start condition, I would turn the key on, hear the fuel pump and the gas gauge would indicate proper fuel level. When this happened, the vehicle ALWAYS started.
Here what I know now;
1. Fuel pump works. As indicated by the red auxellery jumper lead inside the engine well.
2. Good fuel pressure.
3. Starter checks good.
4. Battery hot and leads are cleaned.
5. Grounds in engine compartment and at fuel tank are cleaned.
6. Vehicle does have gas.
7. Air bag light stays on, even after pulling battery leads, letting set, and reinstalling.
This ABS light would come on and go off independently before the "crank but no start condition". So I'm assuming that the ABS might be its own problem; but not contributing to the crank but no start condition? There were problems leading up to the no start condition. Vehicle began to become hard to start (but would start). After starting (at idle) if the gas pedal was pressed aggressively, the "service engine" light would flash on and off rapidly and the "ABS" light would come on. At this point the vehicle wanted to die. No apparent codes were given.
Now the "crank but no start condition". Before this problem, the vehicle was sending the code for 3 o2 sensors. But a new fuel filter corrected this problem completely with no further apparent problems. Then (about 4 weeks later) the "crank but no start". I do not think the fuel filter and the "crank but no start" problems are related.? No other maintenance has been done to this vehicle that might cause this problem. At this point the manual I am using is useless...
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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Been doing a lot of repair's on our 1994 Chevy blazer. It's a 4.3 v6. We finally got her running and now it seems like it can't take high speeds for very long without over heating and eventually smoking some. Had to bypass heater core, it's clogged. That worked with temp. Also replaced radiator and cap. Replaced both heads, took thermostat out. That worked with temp too. It has a new water pump, new exhaust manifolds, has good spark plugs, oil changed and oil filter. Kind of at a loss.
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The Headlights on my 2001 Chevy Blazer will come on by themselves. The Headlight switch is in the off position. It will Switch between the daytime running lights and nighttime lights. What Is causing This?
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Our 2000 blazer LT 4.3L 4 door 4wd has 190,000 km (about 115,000 miles). 3 Button dash control. Transmission was rebuilt at 100,000 miles (main troque converter spline was shot). The 4 wd will not engage in either hi or lo.
Whether moving or not, press 4 wd lo, light stays on. but nothing happens. I cannot hear the transfer case engaging.
Had a previous problem, (withflashing light): found the vacuum hose under battery case was worn through.
I do have a service engine light on the dash. This may be unrelated, because 4wd stopped working long before service engine light came on. I have changed the Oxygen sensor, but no reset the fault yet. Where to start.
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2002 Chev trailblazer, I have had the throttle body cleaned.... Sometimes after short stops, my vehicle will not crank, some times I have to step on the gas several times and it will finally crank, it sets no codes, no check engine lights come on. If it sits overnight, or for more than 20 minutes it cranks right up.
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I got my blazer look at and here what they come up with so far. Transmission fluid is discolored. Transmission shifts late between 3rd and 4th at 52 mph. Transmission slips between 2nd and 3rd gears at 32 mph. Lock up 41-43 mph in and out. I never told them this but I change the transmission fluid about a week before i took it there and when I check the fluid it was nice and clean and not burned like he said it was. He said most likely it internal damage.for them to take a look in side to see what is wrong with cost me 400.00 and I said no.
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