Chevrolet - Blazer :: 1995 Blower Fan Started Intermittently Blowing And Eventually Quit
Jun 3, 2013
Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on low speed but not high and this blows never). What it could be?
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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I had a can of fuel at home that had been siting around a while but I put it in my 02 F350 with the 7.3. hind site being 20/20 I shouldn't have done that. The truck only made it about 2 miles then started chugging and eventually quit. So I pulled the truck home and this is what I have done so far. I assumed that I had bad fuel so I started with a new fuel filter. I did notice that the fuel in the bowl was a milky white color. Not sure what that means. But the new filter did not work as the truck will not start. So after reading some other posts I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean everything.
I did that including cleaning out the 2 screens in the fuel pick up. After re installing the tank I put new clean fuel in the tank and primed the truck. But before starting it I drained the first amount of fuel out of the filter bowl just to make sure I got all of the bad fuel out of the lines. So after doing this I put a new filter in and primed the motor again. I appear to be getting good fuel pressure and the fuel looks very clean now at the bowl. But the truck does not even attempt to start. It turns over just fine but will not start. Some advice I can get before I have it towed to a shop. Also, the truck currently has 305,000 on it and has run great up till now.
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I bought my 2005 prius used 6 months ago, all the mechanics work fine except my AC which started going in June.
Over 2 weeks it started blowing less, eventually nothing. Used the refrigerant (the correct one with no oil) and filled to around 33 every other day for a while and it would work great. Finally went to dealership 3 weeks ago, paid 140 and they replaced one valve (expansion valve? cannot remember) and filled it up and it worked for 1 week. They said a previous owner had dye put in and they saw the dye there.
Brought it back when I thought it was starting to go again and they said they saw a small amount of dye leaking in the evaporator but it would last 2 months minimum (obviously didn't). I was quoted 1400 for evaporator replacement.
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I have a 1994 Chevy Blazer 4 wheel drive with about 130,000 miles. The instrument panel and radio all quit at the same time. I pounded on the dash and they came back on for a while. I did this a couple of times over a couple of days when they went out and it worked, now it doesn't they wont work. What should I check first, is this going to be a complex repair requiring the instrument panel to be removed and replaced?
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I replaced the fuel pump in my 2001 chevy blazer last year and it just quit again two days ago. Internet research leads me to believe it is a common problem in chevy turcks. Blazer stops running, sits for a few hours to a day and then starts up again. Is it going to happen again and is it really the fuel pump.
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My heater/AC blower quit working. Does not work with either heat or AC. I suspect a blown fuse but cannot find one for the blower.
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Have a 95 Chevy blazer 4wd automatic on the column. Tonight I pulled in my house put it in park and turned it off. Took my foot off the brake and it started rolling. I noticed it didn't go in to park. I tried a free times and the shifter goes all the way up but the park doesn't engage and the light doesn't come on. I put it in neutral and used the e brake but am wondering what caused this and if it could be a big problem in the near future.
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My mothers 95 blazer LS coolant is disappearing. A friend said if it's not on the ground than it's in the engine somewhere. oil pan search looked coffee looking?
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Auto facts: 2000 Blazer, Mileage: 196,000 Engine: V6, 4.3L Transmission: Automatic Drivetrain: 4WD, Single climate control
Recently had my AC compressor assembly replaced, renewed accumulator/receiver drier, orifice tube, recharge, etc. The AC was cooling well below par after the repairs. Then is started alternately blowing hot (12 sec), cool (3 sec), etc. with a "spooky" creaking noise coming from within the middle dash during each transition (blend door?).
The mechanic charged the system again and agrees there is a refrigerant leak "somewhere" to account for the marginal cooling capability but the dye put into the system before the repair is not showing up anywhere that he can see (so far, having it checked again today). So, are these 2 separate issues? What are the steps of diagnosis and repair possibilities?
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I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 that the AC just quit cooling. Compressor engages, and it shows a steady 37 on AC guage with no flux. Why it just blows hot air?
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I bought my Saturn Vue Hybrid and was driving for a week when I heard a sound while driving and suddenly the air conditioning quit working and started blowing hot air. I took it to Pep Boys and they told me to take it to a dealership. After three hours and 143 bucks I was told the A/C clutch appears to have come off of the compressor. I have noticed others have had this same issue in Hybrids. Is this a recall or what do I do since this repair is not a cheap one? Also, what other models have the same ac compressor/ clutch for purchasing?
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I have a 99 Blazer 4x4 with ABS. Brake pedal just went to the floor and car stopped eventually ... a bit scary. I've checked all the brake lines and the inside of all wheels and there is no sign of fluid anywhere. All pistons seem to be where they need to be with backing plates nicely visible.
I pumped the brakes quite a few times and same result ... but I'm not pumping fluid on the ground. As expected I've also checked the reservoir and its full. Didn't see any leaks so its full. I'm guessing that the master cylinder has given up the ghost ... truck has 470,000km so things wear out.
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i own a 95 monte carlo z34. ever since i bought it last yr. i have had starting problems. i thought it might be a fuse, checked them all and there fine. i noticed when i pluged in the 2 ingnition fuses back in the fuse block under the hood,the security light lit up for a min then went out. now my car has the chip in the key also. i thought the securty system is failing some how. might it be the tumbler in the colum? if so i read here it could be bypassed, by buying a resister, and spliceing in to a fat orange wire under the steering column, to by pass the security system. is it that easy? if the person who posted the ad with the same problems im haveing could give me more detail instructions on doing this my self,because id rather fix it than take it to a dealer and spend big bucks i don't have.
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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My wife's car 95 Firebird formula a/c quit a few days ago. So far I've checked the charge and changed the high side pressure sensor, but the clutch will not engage. If I bypass the relay the clutch comes on and the a/c works. I've swapped out the relay with another one from my car that works and still no luck.
I've read through my 93 GM camaro service manual and it shows a low side pressure sensor next to the high side one. I've been all over under the hood of this car and there is no sensor that I see.
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1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
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My car developed a problem where it would lose power intermittently while running. The power would come and go before the car eventually dies. Sometimes it starts momentarily and sometimes it takes much, much longer. I've replaced the fuel pump and the camshaft sensor but the problem persists. My last options may be the crank sensor or the ignition module. 95 Buick P.A. Ultra
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94 blazer ac fan will work on low and med but not high replaced resistor under hood but still no high speed fan?...........
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I have been given a 95 S10 Blazer 2dr because the owner could not afford to have it put into the shop. Literally, GIVEN. Anyways, to start off the battery was as dead as it could be so I gave it a good 2 day charge and started troubleshooting. Here are some symptoms:
Problem cranking (acts like its not getting proper fuel, or maybe too much? However, I don't smell fuel like its flooding out)
IF, it cranks, it will idle very roughly and usually die shortly after
IF it doesn't die shortly after cranking, any attempt at using the gas pedal causes a rough/irregular throttle response usually followed by it dying.
The VERY first time I cranked it after charging the battery, it cranked perfectly and drove/idled as smooth as ice. I let it idle for about 30 minutes making sure it wouldn't overheat or anything else. Everything did fine, I killed it and cranked it again later THEN encountering the problems described above. It's been the same since.
So, some of my guesses (keeping in mind I'm not very familiar with these vehicles) some type of sensor (crank/idle), bad vacuum leak or a loose connection somewhere in the electronics. Looking for some type of confirmation before I waste money throwing parts at it.
Also, included a short video of what it's like trying to crank and running. [URL] ....
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