Chevrolet - Blazer :: 1994 - Instrument Panel Quit Working
Nov 3, 2012
I have a 1994 Chevy Blazer 4 wheel drive with about 130,000 miles. The instrument panel and radio all quit at the same time. I pounded on the dash and they came back on for a while. I did this a couple of times over a couple of days when they went out and it worked, now it doesn't they wont work. What should I check first, is this going to be a complex repair requiring the instrument panel to be removed and replaced?
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The instrument panel in my 2002 Hyundai Accent GSI quit working. I pulled the cluster and both bulbs were working (replaced them anyway). All lights and fuses work, including the dimmer. All I can see at night is the speedometer reading, lit by these two bulbs.
There are two holes, covered over, for two other bulbs. They were never installed! Hyundai dealer has no idea on what could be wrong. I can't see how the white part could have been backlit without these two bulbs. Doesn't make sense.
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Been doing a lot of repair's on our 1994 Chevy blazer. It's a 4.3 v6. We finally got her running and now it seems like it can't take high speeds for very long without over heating and eventually smoking some. Had to bypass heater core, it's clogged. That worked with temp. Also replaced radiator and cap. Replaced both heads, took thermostat out. That worked with temp too. It has a new water pump, new exhaust manifolds, has good spark plugs, oil changed and oil filter. Kind of at a loss.
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I replaced the fuel pump in my 2001 chevy blazer last year and it just quit again two days ago. Internet research leads me to believe it is a common problem in chevy turcks. Blazer stops running, sits for a few hours to a day and then starts up again. Is it going to happen again and is it really the fuel pump.
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My Step Brother has a 1994 Chevy S-10 Blazer with a 4.3L V6 Automatic and the Transmission isn't Shifting Right what could be the Problem?
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I have a 94 chevy blazer. I purchased it not running. I replaced the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter and plugs. The car ran fine for a couple of weeks. Then it started choking out after putting into drive. i tried to give it gas while shifting and it still died. I replaced the fuel regulator, dist. cap, fuel filter again, and the ECM. It now chokes out while in park. What am I missing?
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on low speed but not high and this blows never). What it could be?
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94 Blazer 5.7 liter ... Headlights won't come on... They flickered then went off completely. Check EGR light comes on occasionally. Lower 30 amp breaker on fusebox is extremely hot. All other lights work.
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
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At once, all together three items on my VW Passat 2004 4Motion instrument panel stopped working:
a) engine coolant temperature gauge
b) fuel gauge
c) outside temperature digital display
What could be happening here. Does not look like a fuse issue...
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2006 Chrysler 300 Limited. Very strange issue here. If the ignition key is turned on, and the headlight switch in ANY position (auto, off, parking, or on) the headlights and fog lights turn off and on on their own! No rhyme or reason to it. At first if the headlight switch was in the "auto" position, it wouldn't give me a problem. Now I can't shut the headlights off, the foglights off, or "flick" the high beams on by pulling the "multi-function" switch back. Long story short, i think the actual headlight switch might be faulty, but the multi-function switch not making the headlights do anything is what is making me second guess this issue. Where else I should look? Fuses are all fine.
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So I know these posts a a dime a dozen but unlike most i know what did to cause the lights to go out.
I unplugged the dimmer switch harness and headlight switch harness to clean the air vents. When i plugged everything back in, none of the red or blue backlighting turns on when i turn the headlight switch. The instrument cluster and all the trim remains dark.
At first my turn signals were not working but they have begun working again. headlights and break lights all work. and my interior dome lights work.
I checked every fuse i could think of that would relate to the interior lighting and everything looks fine there. is there something else i can check?
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Have a '13 F150 Platinum. Recently three things "broke" at the same time and I suspect a fuse but cannot locate the right one. At first I thought it was just the GD Opener, but when trying to reprogram it, I realized the red lights were not lighting up and the Drivers side Vanity Mirror light was not working.
About the same time, I noticed that the Instrument Cluster Memory function quit working and weirdly, every time the truck is switched off and then back on, it always comes back to the trailer tow screen for my Snowmobile trailer.
I thought i had it solved when I found that the trailer back-up lamp relay power fuse ( #43 in fusebox under hood) was blown. I replaced with a good 15 amp fuse and the problems are still there. I have searched high and low and cannot find a fuse for the Car2u GD Opener or the Driver Vanity Mirror Light (neither Vanity light for that matter. I tested all under hood fuses, but the kick panel fuses are impossible to check one-by-one.
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For about 3 months, my wife's 2003 explorer has had a bad door sensor (I'm guessing). The car claims a door is ajar and the alarm would go off randomly if it's locked. Yesterday the battery died because apparently the alarm had been going off for so long while she was at work. After having a stranger jump it, she has had major problems:
-She claimed the headlights didn't work in any setting except in the on position with high beams on, but now they seem to work.
-The instrument panel is totally out including all gauges and all lights
-the power windows don't work
-the radio won't turn on or show any display
-the interior lights won't turn on
All of the fuses are fine and my mechanic checked them as well. He did say that a few key fuses aren't getting any power to them on either side. But the battery is charging and drawing just fine. The car doesn't seem to have any other issues and all of the flashers work just fine.
What the problem could be? I have wondered if one of the relays is busted.
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The cruise control on my 2000 Blazer LS 4X4 is not working. I just changed the multi-function switch and still nothing. I looked at the throttle cables and they seem to be fine. All the fuses are good as well.
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Have 2009 F350 SD Lariat SRW and looking for a way to troubleshoot the driver seat heater unit. The panel light comes ON when depressed but the heat quit working the other day. It was working fine and the passenger seat works great?
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Having issues with the gauges in my truck. Usually only in the mornings, the tach will quit working and the speedo will go to 70 or 80 (this morning 100), the check gauges light comes on and the tranny is stuck usually in 3rd (auto). The indicator light for the gearshift (P,R,D,3,2,1) also goes out. I swapped out the fuel injector spider a while back and that's when the problem began.
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I have a 2008 Chevy HHR. On Monday both the key fobs for the keyless entry system quit working. I took both fobs to my local auto parts place where they had a tester and both seemed to work ok. What inside the car receives the signal from the remotes and activates the locking mechanism. All other electronics within the car is working. On Monday we had to have the car jump started when someone left the key in the ignition on Acc setting. Besides testing the fobs I changed the fuse for the Body Control Module (BCM).
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I inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
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Nissan Pathfinder SE-V6 4x4 My blinkers quit working, but flashers still come on. All 3 brake lights also went out but tail lights still work. when the car is cranked and blinker is on there is a buzzing (alert) sound and the oil temp light comes up on the dash, there is no sound when the key is in the on position, only when it is cranked. Occasionally there is a crackle through the speakers that usually goes away when I turn it off. I don't know if the last part is relevant but I figured I would put it in anyway. Is this an easy fix or are there serious electrical problems?
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The starter engages but it seems I have no power to the instrument cluster or the fuel pump.
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