Chevrolet - Blazer :: 1986 - No Power / Muffled When Rev The Engine
Feb 21, 2012
I have a 86 K5 Blazer. Six years ago put a new gm 350 a rebuilt trans. and had all the work performed for inspection. Truck was run once or twice over the years. This winter I got it on the road to push snow. I ran the blazer once for about 12 hours pushing snow, on the way home I thought I had a problem with the trans. Took the k5 out today 2/20 to pick up my kid at a neighbors house. Started out fine but at the large steep hill my k5 lost power. I pulled over to check the blazer over. It was idling fine but when I would rev the engine it was muffled. I drove up the rest of the hill (barely)and picked up my kid. On the way back I was quickly throttling the gas pedal which seemed to give little bursts of power. I am thinking that I have an airflow problem.
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Went under truck and saw fluid. Squeezed the rubber boot and fluid poured out does that mean the steering rack needs to be replaced? If so how hard is it to replace?
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
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I've been having my 'service engine soon' light turn on in my 1999 Chevy Blazer. It has an automatic transmission and 60,000 miles. I first disconnected the battery to turn off the light and to see if it would turn on again. It turned on again so I took it to AutoZone for an obd2 scan and got codes P0300 and P0442. I replaced the spark plugs and spark plug cables and the light turned off, but then turned back on after a week. I'm starting to think the problem is something simple like the gas cap.
The rubber film around the cap has a few tears, but are the tears significant enough to cause the light to turn on?
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I bought new 2009 maibu, changed oil every 3000, never had problem with car. Just thought because I have200k miles would be good to clean heads, had dealer put ina BG product. About 2 weeks after that the car see muffled and the gas peddle is slow to react,. Now six months later I am starting to smell gas. My guess catalytic converter.
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My Check engine Light comes on with a P0410 Code. It used to come on every 6 months and I would get it cleared. Now it is coming on about every month. I can't find much about it. Is this something I should get fixed right away. where is it located?
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My engine repair soon light came on. Went to repair shop and was told i had error code number 1870. I was told i had a problem in my transmission with my transmission going into overdrive. I had not seen any problems in that area.the car seems to run fine.repair was made replacing the tcc regulator valve assembly at a cost of 424 dollars.three days later the light came back on with the same code.went back and he checked the fluid level and reset the light. It came back on before the day was over. He told me he would call me back with further action.have not heard from him yet.your thoughts on this.i feel like i have been taken for a ride.i have a 1996 chevrolet s10 blazer with 217,000 miles on it. The transmission was rebuilt at 170,000 miles.the car has been well maintained and runs and looks great.
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Click and Clack... When it wouldn't start one day (away from home) he had to keep going back to where it was to try to figure out what was wrong. He came up with a few different diagnoses but came to the conclusion it was the fuel injector inside the gas tank and went online to order one. Once it finally got towed back home, he had a chance to really get a good look and found that all those wires had been chewed and eaten. They're too short to splice back together.
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I'm hearing a muffled thump in the center rear of my '97 Lumina about 2 minutes after I turn off the engine. It comes in a series of 2 thumps. This started about a week ago and now the thumping is occurring when I'm in a slow idle--just a series of two thumps. Maybe it's releasing pressure? What this could be?
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Driving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
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What would cause my truck to have a long turnover start, a really rough idle, and a loss of power after idling at a stop light for about a minute?
This problem gets worse as the truck warms up. It feels as if I'm not getting power from all 6 cylinders but this goes away after about 20 feet of acceleration. The truck has never not started. It just has to turn over for about 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. I changed the spark plugs and wires thinking it was that and then i tried the fuel filter and it wasn't that either.
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I have a 2005 F150, 5.4L. What I have is a "muffled" sound (for the lack of better terms) from the engine when driving. Also it seems to be "starved" or lacking some power.
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Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
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Been doing a lot of repair's on our 1994 Chevy blazer. It's a 4.3 v6. We finally got her running and now it seems like it can't take high speeds for very long without over heating and eventually smoking some. Had to bypass heater core, it's clogged. That worked with temp. Also replaced radiator and cap. Replaced both heads, took thermostat out. That worked with temp too. It has a new water pump, new exhaust manifolds, has good spark plugs, oil changed and oil filter. Kind of at a loss.
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I have A 2001 Santa Fe. The check engine light came on about 3 weeks ago and the car was still running fine up until the last few days it felt a little sluggish. Today I got a little muffled backfire noise. It was like a putting noise if I pushed on the gas to hard to speed up. The car has 95,000 miles on it.The car starts up with no problems and doesn't stall. Its A 6 cylinder All wheel drive vehicle.
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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A friend of mine has an 86 Chevy 1/2 ton, all origional. His problem is that the truck is "slow" going into reverse, but once there, feels "solid". I haven't personally looked at the truck, and am not sure what his concept of "slow" is. I understand there's probably not enough information to determine the cause, but it doesn't hurt to try.
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I have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?
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The Headlights on my 2001 Chevy Blazer will come on by themselves. The Headlight switch is in the off position. It will Switch between the daytime running lights and nighttime lights. What Is causing This?
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Our 2000 blazer LT 4.3L 4 door 4wd has 190,000 km (about 115,000 miles). 3 Button dash control. Transmission was rebuilt at 100,000 miles (main troque converter spline was shot). The 4 wd will not engage in either hi or lo.
Whether moving or not, press 4 wd lo, light stays on. but nothing happens. I cannot hear the transfer case engaging.
Had a previous problem, (withflashing light): found the vacuum hose under battery case was worn through.
I do have a service engine light on the dash. This may be unrelated, because 4wd stopped working long before service engine light came on. I have changed the Oxygen sensor, but no reset the fault yet. Where to start.
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2002 Chev trailblazer, I have had the throttle body cleaned.... Sometimes after short stops, my vehicle will not crank, some times I have to step on the gas several times and it will finally crank, it sets no codes, no check engine lights come on. If it sits overnight, or for more than 20 minutes it cranks right up.
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