Chevrolet - Aveo :: Stuck In Park / Brake Lights Won't Come On - Fuses Blown
Oct 8, 2011
4 days ago, my '04 Chevy Aveo (89,300 miles) would not shift out of park and no brake lights were coming on. I had to use the shift lock release to start the car in neutral, and I took it to dealer. Dealer replaced the brake switch. One day later, the problem returned. I took back to dealer, and they showed me that the light blue "15" stop fuse (the right column of fuses, second one down) had blown. They replaced. It again worked for a day, and the problem came back. Each time I put a new 15 fuse in now, it works temporarily, but now fries either immediately or within an hour. In order to drive, I still have to use the shift lock release, which isn't great, because it means I have to drive without brake lights.
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A couple years ago my car got stuck in Park, in which I had discovered my brake lights and a few other electrical fuses blew at the same time. It has happened randomly about 4-5 other times since, in which I take it back to the dealership and they "fix it" temporarily. After about a 1 1/2 years of no trouble, it happened again, and the dealership traced it back to the GEM module, which they replaced for me. Electrical components I forgot I had (like automatic locking doors) came back- for about a week. I got stuck in Park again, lost my break lights, as well as some other functions. I haven't noticed this problem on the focus with other discussions. Now it has added to much time in the shop, multiple FORD dealerships unable to fix it properly, and lots of wasted money. Shouldn't a new electrical unit fix the problem?
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I did a bad thing last night, I put a jumper in the 20 amp cigar/data link connector and all kinds of things went out, will not shift out of park, no directional, power windows, power mirrors, no brake lights ,no hazards, no wipers, no interior lights and I don't know what ever else is not working.
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Just had car in for inspection/oil change. now car starts but can't shift out of park and no horn, brake lights, radio, gas gauge, odometer, etc.
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My fog lights were working perfectly but I got the dumb idea that I wanted to turn them yellow. I bought some Hella Yellowstar 55w bulbs and installed them. Fogs worked for a couple of hours then I noticed that they wouldn't turn on. I replaced the 15A fuse and once again it worked fine for a couple of hours before I blew another fuse. Now every time I replace the fuse it blows as soon as I switch the fogs on. Was I correct in thinking that 55w was the wattage of the stock lights? Also I understand that you're not supposed to touch the bulb itself as oil on your fingers will heat up once the light is on and cause this problem. Tomorrow I am going to reinstall the stock bulbs and replace the fuse again and see if they work.
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Daughters 03 mountaineer. Have changed the brake light switch, bulbs and checked the only fuse I could find for the brake lights. She can drive it by doing the override under the column but still has no brake lights and is an accident waiting to happen. What else to check? Is there a relay or another fuse I could be missing? I'm lost.
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus that over the past few days has found itself stuck in park. When I start the engine, the release doesn't trigger and I have to use the manual release in order to move the gearshift level to drive. The same happens if I've been driving, stop and put it back in park--the release button is locked and I have to use the manual release.
My owner's manual suggests that I may have a blown fuse or my brake lamps may not be operating. My brake lamps are, so I'm looking to check the fuses.
My confusion now is coming from which fuse I need to check, and whether its in the fuse panel or power distribution box. The manual has a handy chart showing right where to look, but I don't know what I am looking for.
[URL] ....
I'm not too saavy with working on vehicles, should I just take it to a mechanic or is this something I can check and replace myself if blown?
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A few days ago, the change oil light came on in my car. I haven't had a chance to change it yet, but now the last day or two, when I go to start my car, I've been having small problems with the car starting. It sputters for a few seconds and the gauges jiggle a bit, the battery light and oil pressure light blink on and off a few times, but so far it still starts every time. Once it's started, as well, it's running fine. Not sure it's related or if there's something else going on (never had it happen before when the oil change light has registered).
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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I have a 96 Chevy Cavalier with about 160k miles on it. Yesterday it started kicking kind of strangely from a dead stop to accelerating while in drive. This evening, after driving it both to and from work, when I backed in to a parking spot, it got stuck in reverse. The car was still pulling in drive and in reverse, it just seems like the gear shifter moves freely.
Idle seems fine, the vehicle just doesn't want to go into park or drive anymore.
Is this just as simple as the transmission being blown, or could there be another problem? Also, now that I've gotten the car turned off, it will not turn over again, since the vehicle won't shift into park.
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A dealership is attempting to charge me several hundred dollars to replace blown fuses that they claim is a result of an overpowered attempt at charging a seemingly dead 12V battery. The interesting part is that after also replacing the air/fuel ratio sensor (which they initially claimed was the cause of a check engine light even after replacing the fuses) Toyota is telling them that the ECM should be replaced in order to extinguish the check engine indicator.
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My cousin's 2009 Prius won't start and jump starting did nothing for them. In fact, when they tried it, they got sparks when they hooked up the ground cable and the headlights came on and stayed on the entire time they were attempting to jump it. Try again, and same thing but now I know they didn't go about it incorrectly or anything. There are also at least three blown fuses, I believe she said they corresponded to the smart key system, electronic throttle control (both up front) and then one in the trunk for the hybrid system.
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This morning everything worked on a 1999 Suburban 4x4. One hour later, my blinkers (turn signals) were not working. Flashers were.
I checked the fuse (fuse 16) for the turning signals - blown. I bought some fuses - replaced turn signal fuse. It blew immediately and then the hazards no longer worked. I replaced that fuse and the hazards lasted a few seconds.
Hazards & brake lights are on the same fuse (fuse 1) so I am left with no brake lights, hazards or turn signals - I am an accident waiting to happen!
I switched my cigarette lighter fuse for the hazards/brake light fuse - didn't start the car - and turned on the hazards. I heard the fuse blow immediately.
My husband put a new radio in last year at this time and has fog lights wired to it - but that was last year not last week...
I know trailer lights are attached to fuse 16 (turn signals). I bought this car used, but it does have a trailer hitch with wires that I have never used.
Where to even start looking for the short... a short that would cause the hazards/brake lights to short out also.
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I have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
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I have a '95 Camry LE with the 2.2L four cylinder. The car ran PERFECT. Went to town today, great. Get in it a few hours after returning, it will turn over but not start. It is getting fuel, no fuses are blown, but is not getting fire.
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I was recently having some AC issues, I dropped the glove box to check the cabin filter, That's when all hell broke loose., I noticed a plug in one of the boxed was loose, I pushed it in and the car started beeping, so I shut the car off, then started it, Its park brake was stuck, so I tried everything from disconnecting 12v batt, to disconnecting the high voltage batt and then both. Now it won't run, won't do anything and throws no codes.
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What is the problem need to fix have limited fundage....
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This is happening intermediately, maybe 1 out of every 5 starts.
Using the override I can shift just fine and the lights go away within 2-3 minutes. However, there's obviously something misaligned here. Search revealed potential brake switch issue (my tails and brake lights are fine so no issues there), lockout issue, or a park neutral switch.
So I took the panel apart and I am trying to isolate these potential issues, image attached, what I need to do next? I am more of a visual person so if someone can circle the part I need to disassemble or replace that would be most useful.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
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My 1.8T with auto trans is stuck in park. I've read that the likely culprit is the break light switch but before I order the part and install it I wanted to check what else it can be because it was working fine before I fixed some coil wires. Basically I unplugged the ECU and tested continuity from the coil connectors to the ecu connectors.
I found an issues, resolved it, plugged everything back in, fire the car up, turned it off, re-installed all the covers, etc. Then I repaired a broken wire in the trunk lid wiring that was broken. But when I went to back it out of my garage I couldn't get it out of park.
If it's just happened to go while doing all this other work then it's just a coincidence, but are there other things I can check based on the ignition work I've been doing?
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Ok so this is the problem now, i went to check my fuses and pulled a #20 out to see if the cigarette lighter fuse was blown. Guess what? i start the car and all of a sudden the Electronic Parking brake failure kicked on. I tried to get the car out and now it won't get out of park! FML i heard that you can just unplug the battery for 15 min and that should reset the car but who knows... I got vw roadside coming to see what they can do it might need to get towed though
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