Chevrolet - Aveo :: 2008 - Electrical Malfunction - Clock Goes Off - Engine Light On - Fuel Sensor?
Jan 30, 2013
My 2008 chevy aveo has electrical problems, I think, sense I purchased it. First off the clock goes on and off randomly and doesn't keep time. Then the engine light is on one day then off the next. Sometimes on hot days sometimes on cold days. took it to Autozone and they have said two different times said there is a something wrong in the fuel sensor ??? took it to the Chevy dealer 3 time, Once they keep it for 3 days and said they couldn't get the engine light to come on.. ei. nothings wrong. the second time they said it was the sparkplugs and they charged me to replace them. 10 minutes after I got the car back the light came back on. The third time, again they said they can't find anything wrong.So the light as been going on one day and off others..I just ignored it...Yesterday, I was in 5th gear and I lost all power. engine still running but now power when I press on the gas. I managed to pull over, turn off the car and it acted fine. It happened again on the way home from work. Now the light is off and it seems fine.
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After several checks and resets , my Touareg clocks are fast by about 2 min/week. No other electrical problems. Not a known problem with my dealer. Clocks aren't hi-tech ... MFI may have clock module- seems overkill to change it.
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Mother in law's 2008 Chevy Aveo had the ac stop working. I put gauges on the vehicle, and it was low on freon. I recharged the system, and the ac now works. Problem is, the fan under the hood cycles on and off. On every other vehicle I have had, the cooling fan should stay on the entire time the ac is working. This fan comes on for a few seconds, then shuts off. Every time it shuts off, my high side reading approach 300 psi. Then it comes on and high side drops to 200 psi. Is there an obvious reason that this is happening? Is it supposed to happen?
Forgot to mention, the ambient temp is 80 F, low side is 40, high side is 200, dash temp is 55 F. (A little high)
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I have 2007 Chevrolet Aveo. I have changed spark plugs, new battery, changed and checked brake system. I still have this issue sometimes when am braking the engine loses power and at times will cut off while braking or if you brake hard it'll lose power, the car shut down, the engine, power steering and everything went off and all the dash lights lit up. Even sometimes when on parking and AC is on, once I change gear to D or R it shuts down. And it looks like the AC is weakening engine's power also.
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I have had a problem with my 2009 Chevy Aveo since I purchased it last October 2010. Every once in a while the engine shuts off, not while I'm stopped, but usually after it's been running for 2-3 minutes. It doesn't happen more when it's cold or hot, and not necessarily in the morning or after it's been off for a long time.
It happens only once every few months, but when it does happen it's downright dangerous. Today I was pulling into traffic turning right at a red light and it shut down. I was up to about 15 miles an hour still in the turn, and it feels just like the power steering stopped working. Because it's happened before I knew what to do. If I throw it in to park and turn the key, the engine starts fine and it has never happened twice. In 15 months of owning the car it's probably happened 8 times.
I've brought it into the dealership 4-5 times and they've never been able to replicate the issue. They replaced the spark plugs etc. but it always happened again a few months later. When I went in recently they told me it was the battery and it wasn't covered under my warranty.
They also say because I didn't mention it last time I went in, it must be a new problem. I just didn't mention it because it happens rarely, and they can't find what's wrong, I don't want to seem like a problem customer.
My clock is resetting now and it's a different time every time I start the car so the battery may be an issue... but the engine has never had any trouble starting, not even a hesitation, and the radio stations haven't ever reset.
Can the battery cause a running car to shut off completely, and if so does that mean it had a bad battery when I bought it there used? I can't afford a new battery right now (well as long as it is still starting fine) and frankly I don't believe that's the problem.
Is this a computer issue in the car?
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I am having a “Check Engine” light problem on a stock 06, 4 cylinder Jeep Wrangler with manual transmission. A local highly regarded independent mechanic has had it in his shop 3 or 4 times for more than a day each time. On the first visit he replaced a purge solenoid valve and reset the light. It stayed off for more than 400 miles and then relit. He went over it and checked the wires and connections and reset the light. Again it stayed off for some time and then relit. He has checked the Jeep site.
After the last visit he suggested I drive it and see if it would reset itself as it had been doing in the past. It did reset itself twice but it only stayed off for 10 miles the first time and 2 the second. The code indicates an electrical problem and he is now planning to drop the fuel tank and check the wires and sensors there. The next step may be an ECM transplant. This is only an emission system problem and the mechanic says it is OK to drive. We do not have emission inspections here. How important is it to fix the problem?
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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So this little gem of an SUV has been good enough to me over the year that I have had it, but it is one of those used vehicles that has me scared to look underneath cause there is always something a miss.
I have been having some power problems and the OBD check engine light has been coming on. The engine like to putter like if it's not getting enough fuel from a clogged fuel filter when it gets going, hot or cold. Have confirmed that the fuel pump is with proper voltage and pressure. Though haven't noticed a big difference with the new filter. The check engine light cycles a code of 21, which is refinanced to the O2 sensor, both upstream and down stream. That tells me that there are TWO O2 sensors for this model. And research has confirmed this. One ahead of the cat and one behind the cat.
Here's the kicker, I only have one O2 sensor at the head of the cat and the location of where the second one would be located is only a solid section of pipe from cat to muffler. I haven't been able to track down the plug connection for the second sensor and these codes and problem only came after I gave the Jeep a tune up.
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8
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I have a 06 chevy 3500 express van with a 6.0 engine. The engine light came on about the O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 came up on the on the scan tool. It run great. how do I fix it
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So I have a 1996 Chevy Lumina (3.1L V6 engine) and I keep getting a DTC code P0101, which is a Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction. It's rather annoying because every time this happens, my engine shuts off. I'm talking no power steering, no power breaks, no acceleration, nothing. So I replaced the mass airflow sensor and it continues to stop about every five minutes. However, it does something odd and that is that the car drives just fine when it's in Overdrive and stops when it's in regular drive. I don't know if that's important, but I thought it might diagnose the problem.
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My 2008 Honda Accord 's dashboard Engine Malfunction Light got lit. I have driven a further 4 kilometers and stopped at a lube station and found that oil level is a little low.
Did an engine flush and refilled with synthetic oil. The MFL light is gone after a minute of starting and it stayed out.
Now the problem that I am facing is poor gas mileage. I can literally see the fuel guage going down while driving . A full tank now gets me around 200 KM rather than 550-600 which I usually get.
Google search suggested an ECU reset. Is this safe ? or should the car need to go to the service station?
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Just picked up a Toyota certified 2010 Prius III....less than a week later, the check engine light comes on. Took it right back to the dealer...in which they said its the air/fuel sensor. Toyota warranty services was closed, so they need to check tomorrow if its covered by the remaining warranty or not.
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Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
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My friend was told by Toyota that the Air Fuel Sensor code was the reason why her 2010 Corolla VSC and engine lights were on. This was after she visited her mechanic who changed the O2 sensor.
Is there a way to change the Air fuel sensor herself without having to pay Toyota...
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I have an 06 Chevy Aveo that has been driving me crazy the past month. If it sits for awhile (over 5 hours), it will start up no problem. So on the way to work, starts fine; after a long day at work, starts fine. But if I stop at a gas station, go to the store a couple of minutes or even sit at church for 2 hours, it will not start again unless it has been sitting for another few hours. We recently had a new battery put in. We have had the wires all cleaned. We took it to Tires Plus, who looked it over for electrical problems as well as thoroughly checked everything under the hood. Only thing they came up with was to try replacing the fuel pump. We did that. Still not wanting to start. No lights on dashboard showing anything is wrong. There is fuel in the car as well.
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I replaced both front hubs on my 1999 Jimmy back in April because of a bad bearing. About 5 months later the ABS light came on. I had the code pulled and it was left front speed sensor. I could get the light to go off by messing with the wires that come out of the hub but the light would come back on again after a short drive. Took the hub back and got a new one but the ABS light was still on. Had it scanned again and it said right speed sensor curcuit open. I can get the light to go out if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left but it comes back on when I go back to the right. The truck needs a front alignment bad. Could the alignment problem be causing the ABS light or is my right hub also bad? Or do I have an electrical problem.
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After replacing a tail light, my rear hatch quit opening, power windows quit rolling down, interior lights quit working, and also my key will not lock or unlock the doors. My first thought is a blown fuse. How did you solve it?
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My AC clutch will not engage until the engine gets hot enough to call for the radiator cooling fan to switch on, which in moderate weather at highway speeds can be forever. (Single electric cooling fan.) Of course, the AC should override the engine coolant sensors and turn on the fan and engage the clutch. Once the engine is hot, the AC works normally. No one seems to know where to start looking. It's an '03 Grand Marquis with an interceptor engine package.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo that stopped working on Monday's cold snap (-20 degrees, plus wind chill) and still won't start (currently 1 degree). When I turn the key, the car turns, but never 'catches', and was starting to turn sluggishly. I had (dumbly) assumed that it was the battery, so after it didn't start when it kind of warmed up, I took the battery inside and warmed it up. A room-temperature battery and an attempted jump later, and we still have nothing. The charger says the battery's at 100% and 12.5 volts, but nothing else.
I have no garage, and while the tank is full now it was run pretty low last Thursday/Friday, so I thought that maybe there was a freeze in the gas line... but now the check engine light's on. I don't know if a line freeze would cause the light to go on, but I'm afraid it's calling out a much more serious problem. I'm broke (literally... even spending $100 for a new battery is terrifying) and am hoping that I might have some kind of solution other than towing it to a garage and paying for repairs. We're a one-car family, and can't exactly wait for the weather to warm up.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo. When I had the transmission serviced, the shop put only half the fluid in because transmission was "clogged up" and needed to losen up before a full flush. I've talked with other repair shops and they say it should have had a full flush. Is this normal?
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My 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
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