Chevrolet - Aveo :: 2004 - Bog Down And Stall While Driving On Expressway After About 20 Minutes
Feb 25, 2011
I have been to 3 mechanics including the dealer and no one can re-create my problem. While driving on the expressway at speeds of 60-70 mph after about 20 minutes the car will start to bog down and then stall. It will start right back up but then you can only go a mile or less and it will do it again. It has to sit for 20-30 minutes before it will go a longer distance. This is a daily event since we drive the car to work on the expressway and, of course, it takes 30 minutes to get there. What I have done: replaced the ignition coils (no change) replaced the fuel pump/filter (no change) replaced the throttle body (this fixed the problem for about a month or two. I had to buy a used throttle body because I could not find a new one) In any case if the problem is the throttle body what is making it go bad?
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I have had a problem with my 2009 Chevy Aveo since I purchased it last October 2010. Every once in a while the engine shuts off, not while I'm stopped, but usually after it's been running for 2-3 minutes. It doesn't happen more when it's cold or hot, and not necessarily in the morning or after it's been off for a long time.
It happens only once every few months, but when it does happen it's downright dangerous. Today I was pulling into traffic turning right at a red light and it shut down. I was up to about 15 miles an hour still in the turn, and it feels just like the power steering stopped working. Because it's happened before I knew what to do. If I throw it in to park and turn the key, the engine starts fine and it has never happened twice. In 15 months of owning the car it's probably happened 8 times.
I've brought it into the dealership 4-5 times and they've never been able to replicate the issue. They replaced the spark plugs etc. but it always happened again a few months later. When I went in recently they told me it was the battery and it wasn't covered under my warranty.
They also say because I didn't mention it last time I went in, it must be a new problem. I just didn't mention it because it happens rarely, and they can't find what's wrong, I don't want to seem like a problem customer.
My clock is resetting now and it's a different time every time I start the car so the battery may be an issue... but the engine has never had any trouble starting, not even a hesitation, and the radio stations haven't ever reset.
Can the battery cause a running car to shut off completely, and if so does that mean it had a bad battery when I bought it there used? I can't afford a new battery right now (well as long as it is still starting fine) and frankly I don't believe that's the problem.
Is this a computer issue in the car?
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My husband has a 2009 Chevy Aveo, he's had several issues lately, split radiator hoses, an oil pan issue and now he says it's decelerating when he's driving on the highway, the engine doesn't rev when he presses the gas pedal, we can't afford a new car but he's afraid to drive an iffy car through the winter on a somewhat long commute?
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my 2004 aveo gallops when idling. when i put it in gear (automatic) it takes off by itsself. i dont have to touch the gas. going down the road it will climb to 50-60 miles an hour without touching the gas. i DO NOT have cruise control. what is wrong here?
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The timing belt on my 2004 Chevy Aveo broke last week. I have it at a mechanic who got a new timing belt on to check the compression of the engine. Bad news: no compression. So far they haven't taken the head off to inspect the inside. This includes timing belt/water pump, cylinder head gasket removal and replacement, cylinder head check, some misc labor, lube, oil, and filter...
However, another mechanic is suggesting that I replace the engine instead with a used or refurbished engine with less miles. He says that it doesn't make much sense to put new parts on the top end of the engine. The engine itself has about 153k miles on it.
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I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
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I have a 1988 Omni, so a 2.2 non-turbo with TBI. Within the first 10 minutes of driving, regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank, the engine will stall out. Throttle position does not matter - it stalls the same way under full throttle as it does idling. It always starts back up on the 2nd or 3rd try immediately after stalling, and runs perfectly. When it stalls, it's as if someone actually shut the ignition switch off - the motor completely shuts off without sputtering or running rough. All of the other electronics seem to be unaffected (for example, the radio and lights still work during the motor drama).
It may do this 3 or 4 times in the course of 5 minutes. After the engine is up to operating temp, the problem disappears entirely and only resurfaces whenever the car has had a chance to cool back off.
I thought it was the coil, but replaced that with no effect. I also recently did plugs and wires (2 months ago, long before this issue surfaces). I just remove the air intake assembly and watched the fuel injector. It ran perfectly normally for about 10 minutes again and then I saw the injector suddenly stop spraying, and the engine stalled instantly. The injector seemed to be working fine before the stall and worked fine again after I restarted. No weird noises or anything.
What this could be? ECU, maybe? Something specific in the throttle body assembly or fuel system? The little car is in great shape otherwise, and I drive it 100 miles every day to work and back to keep miles down on the newer thirstier car.
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All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
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We will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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I have a 1996 F250 460CI that was running great for years and all of a sudden it shut off for a few seconds when I was on the expressway. It was like turning the ignition key off and turning it back on. It did it several times and eventually just died and would not start. I put a new coil on and it worked fine for about 150 miles and now it started doing the same thing again. The check engine light was on for a few seconds but not all the time so I am not sure if diagnostic equipment will show any error messages. Mileage on my truck is 92k. Does this sound like a distributor pickup issue?
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My check engine light has come on, and I have white smoke coming from under my hood when I drive. I'm trying to diagnose this and fix it. My mechanic had my car for a whole day and told me he needed more time to find out what it is.
My car is a 2002 chevy impala, and the smoke only comes after about 10 minutes of driving, and only lasts for about five minutes. When I open my hood, it seems the smoke is coming from the right side of my engine, maybe underneath, but it's hard to tell, but when I look just below the right side of the engine it does look to be a little bit wet down there. The smoke has a kind of sweet smell. So far, the car is still running fine.
The smoke only comes the first time I drive my car for the day.
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I have an 06 Chevy Aveo that has been driving me crazy the past month. If it sits for awhile (over 5 hours), it will start up no problem. So on the way to work, starts fine; after a long day at work, starts fine. But if I stop at a gas station, go to the store a couple of minutes or even sit at church for 2 hours, it will not start again unless it has been sitting for another few hours. We recently had a new battery put in. We have had the wires all cleaned. We took it to Tires Plus, who looked it over for electrical problems as well as thoroughly checked everything under the hood. Only thing they came up with was to try replacing the fuel pump. We did that. Still not wanting to start. No lights on dashboard showing anything is wrong. There is fuel in the car as well.
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I have a 1992 Chevy S10 with 84,000K on it. It drives fine but when I get on the interstate and am driving 65mph for about 5-10 minutes the 'service engine soon' light comes on sometimes it takes longer. It only does it when I'm driving on the interstate and not if I'm just driving around town. It also doesnt turn on all the time but when it does come on it stays on until I turn the engine off.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo that stopped working on Monday's cold snap (-20 degrees, plus wind chill) and still won't start (currently 1 degree). When I turn the key, the car turns, but never 'catches', and was starting to turn sluggishly. I had (dumbly) assumed that it was the battery, so after it didn't start when it kind of warmed up, I took the battery inside and warmed it up. A room-temperature battery and an attempted jump later, and we still have nothing. The charger says the battery's at 100% and 12.5 volts, but nothing else.
I have no garage, and while the tank is full now it was run pretty low last Thursday/Friday, so I thought that maybe there was a freeze in the gas line... but now the check engine light's on. I don't know if a line freeze would cause the light to go on, but I'm afraid it's calling out a much more serious problem. I'm broke (literally... even spending $100 for a new battery is terrifying) and am hoping that I might have some kind of solution other than towing it to a garage and paying for repairs. We're a one-car family, and can't exactly wait for the weather to warm up.
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I have 2007 Chevrolet Aveo. I have changed spark plugs, new battery, changed and checked brake system. I still have this issue sometimes when am braking the engine loses power and at times will cut off while braking or if you brake hard it'll lose power, the car shut down, the engine, power steering and everything went off and all the dash lights lit up. Even sometimes when on parking and AC is on, once I change gear to D or R it shuts down. And it looks like the AC is weakening engine's power also.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo. When I had the transmission serviced, the shop put only half the fluid in because transmission was "clogged up" and needed to losen up before a full flush. I've talked with other repair shops and they say it should have had a full flush. Is this normal?
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My 2001 Chevy Venture stalls after driving it approximately 15 minutes and won't start for about 20-30 minutes, then same problem occurs. I've had the following parts replaced to date, with no success.
AIR FILTER
ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM
IGNITION MODULE
FUEL PUMP AND WIRING
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
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I have a 95 s10 4.3L V6 auto with 92k miles.
This all started when one day on my way to work the temp gauge got to 260 then quickly fell. It has not gotten that hot since then.
When I start the truck cold and start driving, the gauge climbs to about 215-230 within 10 minutes of driving. Once the gauge hits what ever is the magic mark for the day it quickly falls (10 seconds or less) to about 170-180. Sometimes it will "cycle" up again to 200 or so then fall back to 170-180. Once it is done moving around it stays low and will not move much as I am driving.
I bought an IR thermometer and measured the temperature at various points in the cooling system. The top of the thermostat housing is about 195 or 200 right after it climbs and drops. If I drive for a while around town then check it, the housing reads hotter, about 220 max.
There does not seem to be enough temperature drop across the radiator, I have measured about 15 degrees difference max between the hoses and on some days only 10 degrees difference.
I have replaced the fan clutch (was bad or going bad), the thermostat, and the radiator cap.
After none of this fixed it, I took it to a mechanic who did a "block test" at my request and said it was fine. He thought what it was doing, climbing and falling was normal.
If I run it without the radiator cap on I do not see much if any flow when I look down into the radiator.
Right now I am thinking of doing the water pump and flushing the radiator this weekend.
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